robertrios

iTrader: (11)

So im only running 1000 @ 1ohm rms...but thats rated at around 14volts so be that as it may tomorrow im dropping in an optima yellow top and when I asked my local audio shop if i should do the big three they said its point less to do the power cable and ground to the alternator unless I was upgradin that unit to a hgh output one. They did say that increasing to 0 gauge on the ground to the battery helps.

Is there truth to that? I was gonna do it anyways since terminals are cheap and I have 0 gauge laying around but I was wondering if it helps at all. Im sure ill see a little bit of a better performance with the yellow top at lights if im bumping at around 40-45 the rms flucuate a little bit from the draw.

Any input would help. Thanks all

mtparker18

You don't just need to use the big 3 for an upgraded alt. That doesn't make sense.

Lets say from the chassis ground to the engine block, is 8 gauge.
If you put 0 gauge from the battery to the ground, you'll only get 8 gauge worth of power through the 0.

You may want to find a better shop who's more knowledgeable...

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Agreed, but here's where you lost me...

One has nothing to do with the other - or at least, you've got it backward. You'll be reinforcing the ground, allowing the 8 ga to receive all it needs but won't be drawing more than the 0 ga can deliver. Not a bad thing. The upgrade from the battery to the ground will help your amp(s), which should be grounded as close as possible to their mounting location, to achieve their full power since, after all, it flows from negative to positive in your vehicle (and mines). Upgrading the ground to the engine really isn't necessary, as it grounds through the alternator bolt and the battery. If you want to run one from the battery to the alternator mounting bolt, there is no harm there, but don't expect to see any changes other than being a few feet shorter of 0 ga.

You asked about not being able to fit the power cable to the alt in your other thread, but it should be a pretty easy connection to the screw that is for the positive terminal on the alt. You may need to trim the rubber boot, but it should be able to slip in there fairly easily. Be careful to not touch anything in the car - you get the nasty sparks when you do.

Agreed.

Big Mack

robertrios

iTrader: (11)

well i want to do all three so far ive done block to ground and battery to ground, cant seem to get the power (alt to bat) on right. Im pretty sure my cabel end ring is too big to get the nut back on the end of the stock alternator positive lead.

Any pointers? im sure they alts are similar for different lexus models. also does anyone know the standard consumption of a 2is? we have a 150 amp alternator and I wanted to see if i could upgrade to a 1500rms amp without having to changed the alternator. This would be assuming i finish the last part of the big 3. I already dropped in an optima yellow top.

mtparker18

Eh, I was giving the info that I was always taught. Thanks for clearing that up.