(continued from previous post)
E. PULL THE REAR SEATS
To get your extended speaker wires all the way to the trunk, we'll have to remove the rear seats temporarily.
1. Stick your hands under the rear seat-bottom, right in the center of each side, and pull up with a good tug. Two clips will release, no tools necessary. The seat bottom will then easily come out of the car.
2. With both clips removed, pull up on the rear seat-bottom and remove the rear seat-bottom from the car.
3. Along the base of the rear seat-back, there are three retaining bolts holding it in place. These are 12mm, remove all of them.
4. You don't have to unbolt the rear seatbelts to remove the rear seat-back. Just tuck them up and around the top edge of the rear seat-back first.
5. To get the actual rear seatback out of the car, don't just try to pry it out - push the seatback up vertically first. The seatback is held in place by three large clips, similar to how the seat bottom was attached. Push up on the cushion until it "unclips" itself, then simply remove the rear seatback.
6. Remove the rear seat-back from the car, and you're ready to continue running the extended speaker wire back to the trunk.
F. FEED THE EXTENDED WIRES TO THE TRUNK
Now we'll finish running the extended wires from the door sill to the trunk.
1. Squeeze the extended wires below the back edge of the door sill carpet and the side panel of the rear passenger area.
2. Run the extended wires up the side towards the top of the rear seat-back area.
3. There’s a large rubber grommet at the top of the rear seat-back area, right rear passenger side, that feeds into the trunk area. You can poke a small hole in this grommet to run your extended wires through it.
4. Open the trunk, then pull the front trim panel (the largest panel nearest the fuel tank, with the vent holes in it) and right-side panel (the panel surrounding the CD changer) out so you have access. You should see your extended wires poking through the grommet. Run the extended wires down to where your factory CD changer is, because most of your connections will happen here for sound.
G. CD CHANGER AND MAIN AMP REMOVAL
Here we’ll be ditching two things: we’ll remove the OEM CD Changer and the OEM main amplifier from the car, since there’s no need for either now. Sorry no photos – but it’s easy, you should have no problems.
1. The OEM CD Changer is held in place by 3 10mm bolts. Remove all 3 bolts, tilt CD changer to the side.
2. Unplug the CD Changer harnesses (there's two), and remove CD Changer from trunk - remember, you will not be able to use this anymore with your new head unit, so don't forget to eject any CD changer magazines BEFORE you unplug the CD changer. The changer is held in by 3 10mm bolts: 2 near the bottom of the changer, one near the right-rear taillight area) and one 10mm nut (at the front end of the changer near the fuel tank area).
3. See that silver box that is caged directly under the CD changer location? That’s the OEM main amp. Remove the OEM main amp cage; there are three 10mm nuts around the base of the cage on the trunk floor, very easy to find and remove.
4. With the OEM main amp out, remove the two plugs from the OEM main amplifier.
H. BYPASS THE OEM MAIN AMP
Here we’ll be bypassing the OEM amplifier (since you’re using your aftermarket head unit’s output instead). The plug you'll be working with is the smaller plug that was connected to the OEM amplifier (the correct plug has 10 wires). Time for some cutting/splicing again. Locate the output harness:
10-pin plug with 10 wires, 4 on top and 6 on the bottom, as shown below:
F-Harness Wire Color Guide
F1 teal green
F2 pink with silver dots
F3 red with silver dots
F6 purple with silver dots
F7 brown with silver dots
F8 black with silver dots
F9 yellow with silver dots
F10 blue with yellow stripe and silver dots
Here are the wires in the plug, and what to connect from your extended speaker wires:
F-Harness Connections (pin to extended speaker wires)
F2 – goes to FL positive (front/left speaker +)
F6 – goes to FL negative (front/left speaker - )
F1 – goes to FR positive (front/right speaker +)
F5 – goes to FR negative (front/right speaker - )
F9 – goes to RL negative (rear/left speaker - )
F8 – goes to RL positive (rear/left speaker + )
F4 – goes to RR negative (rear/right speaker -)
F3 – goes to RR positive (rear/right speaker +)
As for the amp turn-on wire, we'll get to it in section I (below). Now about the rest of the wires/harnesses that were attached to the OEM main amp? They’re pretty much not needed anymore. Tape them up and tuck the harness away behind the trunk interior panel.
I. ANTENNA/SUBWOOFER AMP RECONFIGURATION (updated 08.17.12)
1. (sorry no pic) While your rear seats are still out, remove the 3rd brake light/subwoofer grille by pulling the leading edge upward to release the clips (don't yank it up - just pull up enough to release the metal clips) then slide the 3rd brake light/subwoofer grill towards the front of the car to release the hooks. Unplug the 3rd brake light for now.
2. (sorry no pic) With a little easing you can get the package shelf off, exposing your rear speakers, subwoofer, and the subwoofer amp (located between the right-rear speaker and the subwoofer.) You should now be able to access the subwoofer amp, which is recessed to the passenger-side of the subwoofer.
3. Locate the Subwoofer Amp harness:
10-pin plug with 10 wires, 4 on top and 6 on the bottom, as shown below:
G-Harness Wire Color Guide
G2 red with black stripe and silver dots
G3 blue with white stripe
G6 blue with black stripe
G7 brown with silver dots
G8 brown with black stripe and silver dots
G9 black with white stripe and silver dots
G10 red with white stripe and silver dots
Here are the wires in the plug, and where to connect them:
G3 to amp turn-on wire
G4 to amp turn on wire
G6 to amp turn on wire
4. First cut G3, G4, and G6 on the PLUG SIDE (the side nearest the rear window area) leaving about 3 inches of wire attached to the plug - don't cut the wires flush to the plug!
5. Now, splice together G3, G4, and G6 with the amp turn-on wire. See the diagram below for a clearer picture:
By the way, to get the amp turn-on wire (the 15-ft. wire you routed to the trunk along with the speaker wire extensions) from the trunk to the subwoofer harness, there should be a few open holes on the package shelf; use one of these holes to run the amp turn-on wire from the trunk to the subwoofer amp harness area.
These connections do three important things:
A. Allows your new aftermarket head unit to power and control the OEM sub amp.
B. Allows the sub amp to stay on regardless of which source you're using.
C. Allows the antenna to function normally - up when the tuner is on, down for all other sources.
J. SYSTEM CHECK/FINAL STEPS
Now for a few final steps as well as a test run.
1. Turn the key to ACC or ON, and see if you hear sound from all the speakers, including the subwoofer (you should!). Also, use the head unit's balance and fader controls to make sure that your front/left is playing front/left, etc. Try different sources to ensure everything is functioning, as it should be. If you followed everything step-by-step and there is sound coming from all 7 speakers, then from here you can reinstall the trunk panels and cabin interior panels.
You will now have an aftermarket head unit working, with the OEM speakers running off the new head unit, with the OEM power antenna working, and using the factory subwoofer amplifier and subwoofer