Pioneer stereo power output..
#1
Does anyone know what the power (RMS and peak) output of the stock Pioneer unit is? I'd like to upgrade my sound system and aren't sure whether I should purchase an additional amp to drive the 4 speakers in the doors. I am upgrading the 10" woofer and adding an amp to drive it. However, I'm wondering whether the Pioneer radio has enough ***** to drive 4 4" Kappa midranges and 4 1" tweeters (with crossovers)..
Thanks everyone.
Thanks everyone.
#2
if i were u i would spend the extra money for the extra amp to run your mids and highs. i am not sure of the output of the factory amplifier but you will get much cleaner volume from another amp.
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Pioneer Specs
Horse - The whole Pioneer system maxes out at 215 watts with probably 50 of that going to the factory 10" sub. To do the Kappas justice, I'd opt for a good 4 channel amp.
#4
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Additional Question
Gene - The 215 watts for the Pioneer system, do you have any idea what load that is for? Seems to me I remember a post stating that the stock speakers were 2 ohm. Do you happen to know what load the 215 watts is speced at?
Ron
Ron
#5
let me take a guess
215W max (peak rating) most of manufacture use this rating ==> around 100W true rms power (corrected rating) (if you are using factory 2ohms speakers)
which gives around 15W RMS per door speaker x 4, and around 40W RMS for the sub. Does it sound right Gene?
you get a bit less power when you are running 4ohm speakers
Anh
215W max (peak rating) most of manufacture use this rating ==> around 100W true rms power (corrected rating) (if you are using factory 2ohms speakers)
which gives around 15W RMS per door speaker x 4, and around 40W RMS for the sub. Does it sound right Gene?
you get a bit less power when you are running 4ohm speakers
Anh
Last edited by BananaGS; 07-18-01 at 01:14 PM.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Sounds Correct!!
Anh - Yep, those numbers seem just about right. U're correct that the manufacturer will use the peak power ratings to overstate the system power in hopes of impressing some non-audiophile buyers. I'll never forget the look on the Lexus salesmen & mechanics who were bragging on the "powerful 280 watt Nak system"! When I told them that I had that much power going just to the tweeters, they didn't believe me but when I let them sit in the GS & listen, I should've sold tickets - could've paid for the system!!
Ron - Can't take credit for the speaker R&D. Our #1 SQ man Percy did that & discovered that the factory Pioneer speakers were, in fact, of the 2 ohm impedance. Can ya imagine trying to run 4 ohm speakers with the factory amps??
Ron - Can't take credit for the speaker R&D. Our #1 SQ man Percy did that & discovered that the factory Pioneer speakers were, in fact, of the 2 ohm impedance. Can ya imagine trying to run 4 ohm speakers with the factory amps??
#7
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Holy Ohms Batman
I was afraid of that. Either leave the stock system alone or really go through this board, including the old one, and be realistic with your upgrade (and budget) relative to what the improvement you expect. Did I miss something?
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#8
I am currently running Polk component speakers 5.5" front/6.5" back with the stock system (stock sub also) (until i get some free time to put in the amp)
I would say you just have to crank up the volume a little bit, but it definitely sound better that stock
so it's not hurt anything if you want to replace the speakers first, and then if still not satisfy, add in the amps (if you do all the installation yourself like me, then this fine .)
anh
I would say you just have to crank up the volume a little bit, but it definitely sound better that stock
so it's not hurt anything if you want to replace the speakers first, and then if still not satisfy, add in the amps (if you do all the installation yourself like me, then this fine .)
anh
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Speaker Upgrade
Absolutely. I think when you had the thread going with Percy around when you posted some pictures for the install that Percy made the comment that just the larger drivers probably make a big difference even with the stock power. Those stock 4 inchers hiding behind those big grills just don't move a lot of air. Upgrading the speakers to larger drivers, even with the stock power, is going to sound better. Some of the guys who have just done a sub upgrade to Gene's recommended infinite baffle JL sub have not been too impressed until they hook up a separate amp. The JL sub is 8 ohm and I think the stock power just can't give you much improvement in sound quality. Adding the sub amp seems to really wake things up. I will very likely take your route with speaker upgrades and do the dyns (at least in the front doors, thinking about ads for the rear doors) and then tackle the sub and amp question. For me it is a question of not getting unreasonable in my expectations of an upgrade. 210 watts at two ohms won't go very far.
#10
Ordered my speakers..
I just placed an order on a 4" / 1" Polk component system with crossovers for the front doors (91db sensitivity, requiring only 2 watts to drive it), 2 4" / 1" speakers for the rear doors (2-way, also with 91db sensitivity and 2 watt requirement), and a 10" Pioneer VCCS free-air sub, for the rear. This is one of the only free-air subs out there. I wanted the Kappa woofer, but it's been discontinued. I'd like to drive the speakers with the stock Pioneer amp. Even if each channel output is around 10 watts rms, I should be fine with driving 91db sensitive speakers. The 10" woofer, I'll power with a new amp (which I haven't decided on yet). I also ordered a 500 watt ferad cap.
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee..
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee..
#11
MrHorse
you don't need the cap if you are running factory amp, even with aftermarket amp, you don't listen too loud, you should be fine w/o the cap.
I am running dual PPI amps of a total around 500W rms on my honda prelude (4cyl with ~8K red line baby) and I have no problem at all with light dimming or anything (i am using Optima battery also)
you don't need the cap if you are running factory amp, even with aftermarket amp, you don't listen too loud, you should be fine w/o the cap.
I am running dual PPI amps of a total around 500W rms on my honda prelude (4cyl with ~8K red line baby) and I have no problem at all with light dimming or anything (i am using Optima battery also)
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