Smoke "Plastidip" Rustoleum ProGrip Emblem and Grill
#1
The pursuit of F
Thread Starter
Smoke "Plastidip" Rustoleum ProGrip Emblem and Grill
Plastidip always intrigued me as a way to change up color on some trim without making it permanent. It's durable and can be peeled off. In Canada, Plastidip goes for 20-25$ a can depending on color which is a little pricey though...
So with some research, found a very similar product, Rustoleum ProGrip for $15 a can. Decided to try "Smoke" which is translucent and run a couple of trials. I applied three very light coats on an aluminum plate and peeled it off to show color and texture. Another was on the "0" of the 250 emblem. Peeling was relatively easy (as intended), color as expected (translucent smokey gray), and stretchiness and strength was comparable to a grocery bag. So far looks very good, enough for me to have started masking my car.
So with some research, found a very similar product, Rustoleum ProGrip for $15 a can. Decided to try "Smoke" which is translucent and run a couple of trials. I applied three very light coats on an aluminum plate and peeled it off to show color and texture. Another was on the "0" of the 250 emblem. Peeling was relatively easy (as intended), color as expected (translucent smokey gray), and stretchiness and strength was comparable to a grocery bag. So far looks very good, enough for me to have started masking my car.
Last edited by corradoMR2; 10-26-13 at 04:12 PM.
#2
where are the after pics?
and yeah idk why plasti dip ever since its increase in popularity is receiving so much hate. Its way cheaper then vinyl and paint and it peels off. How could somebody hate on that. The #1 most common thing they say is "it looks cheap" no it doesn't. If you put it on right the texture will come out looking nice and smooth. you can't even tell the difference between a matt wrapped car and a plasti dipped car
and yeah idk why plasti dip ever since its increase in popularity is receiving so much hate. Its way cheaper then vinyl and paint and it peels off. How could somebody hate on that. The #1 most common thing they say is "it looks cheap" no it doesn't. If you put it on right the texture will come out looking nice and smooth. you can't even tell the difference between a matt wrapped car and a plasti dipped car
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Plastidip always intrigued me as a way to change up color on some trim without making it permanent. It's durable and can be peeled off. In Canada, Plastidip goes for 20-25$ a can depending on color which is a little pricey though...
So with some research, found a very similar product, Rustoleum ProGrip for $15 a can. Decided to try "Smoke" which is translucent and run a couple of trials. I applied three very light coats on an aluminum plate and peeled it off to show color and texture. Another was on the "0" of the 250 emblem. Peeling was relatively easy (as intended), color as expected (translucent smokey gray), and stretchiness and strength was comparable to a grocery bag. So far looks very good, enough for me to have started masking my car.
So with some research, found a very similar product, Rustoleum ProGrip for $15 a can. Decided to try "Smoke" which is translucent and run a couple of trials. I applied three very light coats on an aluminum plate and peeled it off to show color and texture. Another was on the "0" of the 250 emblem. Peeling was relatively easy (as intended), color as expected (translucent smokey gray), and stretchiness and strength was comparable to a grocery bag. So far looks very good, enough for me to have started masking my car.
#4
The pursuit of F
Thread Starter
Done! Here's a teaser. I placed 5 more in my Build thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-thread-8.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-thread-8.html
Last edited by corradoMR2; 10-28-13 at 11:51 AM.
#6
The pursuit of F
Thread Starter
Thanks Appleman.
Refer to my thread for a pic of the loose edges I refer to below. (I forgot the link, so I just added it above).
The process is easy. Most of the couple hours you need is in the prep work and dry time. You just need microfiber cloth, 70% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), painter's tape, newspapers, a cold hair dryer or fan (to speed up drying), and sharpie knife (to carefully cut along gaps if you applied excess paint in the gap between two adjacent surfaces).
Clean the chrome surface with the alcohol and microfiber cloth. Place tape about 1 inch away from where you want painted. Apply 4 good coats - not thin, but not runny. Wait 15 mins in between each coat (cold hairdryer or fan cuts time in half). When done the 4 coats, pull off the tape, it will create loose edges to pull at like a plastic grocery bag. Grab and carefully peel off the excess. The peeling will stop at the gap between your intended surface and the excess. NOTE if you see paint in the gap, slit with sharpie otherwise you will peel off the intended surface. I didn't take a pic of the fully prepped grill, but you see it half prepped. On the inside of the grill, I didn't want to take a chance risking paint tearing and a mess when peeling it off from the intricate grill so I taped it right along the 1 mm gap on the inside. I drew in a piece of tape to illustrate this. I covered the rest of the interior grill with newspaper.
Refer to my thread for a pic of the loose edges I refer to below. (I forgot the link, so I just added it above).
The process is easy. Most of the couple hours you need is in the prep work and dry time. You just need microfiber cloth, 70% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), painter's tape, newspapers, a cold hair dryer or fan (to speed up drying), and sharpie knife (to carefully cut along gaps if you applied excess paint in the gap between two adjacent surfaces).
Clean the chrome surface with the alcohol and microfiber cloth. Place tape about 1 inch away from where you want painted. Apply 4 good coats - not thin, but not runny. Wait 15 mins in between each coat (cold hairdryer or fan cuts time in half). When done the 4 coats, pull off the tape, it will create loose edges to pull at like a plastic grocery bag. Grab and carefully peel off the excess. The peeling will stop at the gap between your intended surface and the excess. NOTE if you see paint in the gap, slit with sharpie otherwise you will peel off the intended surface. I didn't take a pic of the fully prepped grill, but you see it half prepped. On the inside of the grill, I didn't want to take a chance risking paint tearing and a mess when peeling it off from the intricate grill so I taped it right along the 1 mm gap on the inside. I drew in a piece of tape to illustrate this. I covered the rest of the interior grill with newspaper.
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#9
The pursuit of F
Thread Starter
^^^ I'm skeptical on how it will look on the shiny solid front emblem as it may look "washed out/faded" and dull. For just a few bucks and an hour of your time, try it out, you never know.
#11
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where are the after pics?
and yeah idk why plasti dip ever since its increase in popularity is receiving so much hate. Its way cheaper then vinyl and paint and it peels off. How could somebody hate on that. The #1 most common thing they say is "it looks cheap" no it doesn't. If you put it on right the texture will come out looking nice and smooth. you can't even tell the difference between a matt wrapped car and a plasti dipped car
and yeah idk why plasti dip ever since its increase in popularity is receiving so much hate. Its way cheaper then vinyl and paint and it peels off. How could somebody hate on that. The #1 most common thing they say is "it looks cheap" no it doesn't. If you put it on right the texture will come out looking nice and smooth. you can't even tell the difference between a matt wrapped car and a plasti dipped car
That said, people gotta justify their added expense by putting down others who choose to go a different route. I have Varrstoen wheels on my S2000 which are strong look great and were affordable... some would say I'm a poser beacuse I didn't pay 2-3x for "real" volks.
That said, dip is great... and if you can live with the negatives, the positives are certainly worth while.
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