reyoasian

iTrader: (2)

^

For my IS250 I went from dino > Motul Eco-Nergy > Eneos Synthetic

The vibration at idle that IS250 gets? Noticeably much less now after switching to Eneos. I know because I always have a water bottle in the door-holder, and I rarely hear it rattle like a damn vibrator now. There's also vibration from lowering the car but it's a completely different feel.

Jap oil for Jap car, can't go wrong there.

zydus

I increased my oil change interval after reading this link myself. Thanks for posting it!

Joeb427

iTrader: (1)

Eneos Sustina 0w20 is maybe the best oil (in all weights) but $80+ shipping for 6 qts.
Overkill yes,but if you're OCD...

keyframe13

No problem, I'm trying to get educate myself as I always thought changing it sooner is good. It's now make sense how I developed carbon build up on my acura before as I was changing it ever 2500-3000 for over 70k miles.

azfsprt

iTrader: (4)

That was actually a very good article as I did the same thing on my AP1 at the time and built up a bunch of carbon that I had to clean out with Gunk every 30k mi. not realizing that changing every 5k was actually worse. And when I bought a Civic Hybrid it was running smoother when I was doing intervals of 7k mi.

But I will do the oil change every 10K and filter every 5K from now on.

showtymers

you would have to have a very low flash point in the oil to burn off and evaporate to become a problem as mentioned, i have stood by mobil 1 full synthetic on all of my engine builds . Yes alot of it was high revving hondas all the way up to 10k rpm N/a monsters to 700hp hondas. i also dyno tune these cars myself. As for the black soot that you do see on your exhaust yes it can be from oil/vapors from bad rings valve seals even the evap system.. but on a normal car with it...its directly correlated to the combinations of compression ratio and ignition heat range... EX- higher compression with the limit of 91 octane can only reach certain range of heat range on the spark plugs or else you will get pre ignition just based on the head of the compression of the engine.the only way ive seen a full clean burn is on a msd dual spark system on a dual sparkplug engines and not very many of those =)

and to add from all my builds not one returned to be torn down and rebuilt.. only reason usually for my tear downs are to install something bigger and better for more power

greyIS25

iTrader: (2)

I myself use Amsoil and change it every 10K along with the oil filter since the filter is guranteed good for 25K. I have done this to my other HP car with 100K miles on it.

keyframe13

Is there a data sheet to mention how much is Toyota oil filter good for?

edgeucated

iTrader: (4)

its recommended to change OEM filter at 5k, but an oil analysis done by an ISF member has pushed it to over 10k and the filter is still good.

I just purchased some AMSOIL 0w-30 and will be switching to 10k oil intervals. Im still going to be changing the filter every 5k, but i am confident that the longer interval will do no harm for my car.

keyframe13

I'm looking for some manufacture data as I know the synthetic oil significantly improved nowadays and I know Mobil 1 for example warranty some oil filters to go for the life of the oil 15k miles. So I assume it has to be a data sheet for toyota oil filter as well.

jdmSW20

iTrader: (12)

thats how i feel about it as well. even though i cant lie, Eneos Sustina is not cheap at all lol

i actually was going to do the exact same thing honestly. i usually change every 5k miles but i wanted to step up just to try it out next oil change

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Mobil 1 5w-30 works just fine in a 350:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...oa-thread.html

And in the F:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-uoa-here.html

Intuitive articles don't mean much and the claim of volatility is pretty silly. Bob is the oil guy (BITOG) can be a good resource but like any forum, the reader needs to be able to distill the wisdom and ignore the BS.

If you really want to learn something about oil, click here for expert information.

I am always amazed at how people think frequent oil changes are "babying" the engine. They're not. Oil should be changed based on analysis of YOUR used oil. Your driving habits and location have more to do with how often you change your oil than the brand.

jdmSW20

iTrader: (12)

ive always wanted to try one of those oil analysis for the car just to see what the numbers would come back as. but it has me curious because i do oil analysis for fighter aircraft engines and im sure we use the same equipment as these guys do for car motor oil. but for aircraft engines we have trend tables to base if a motor is buring "good" or bad. the trend goes over the course of a minimum of 3 samples.

so i guess what im getting at is how they do one sample of oil from a random motor and can call it good with no trend tables or standard to go off of? since every motor will run different according to driver habits, climate, location, etc. not to mention the thousands of different motors out there of various car makes, it almost seems like a flawed system or answer unless you had mulitple oil samples over the course of a 10k oil change interval

UniSlayEX

This is how I've run my vehicles. I've done this on a 10k OCI with the Lexus recommended service interval.

You can get multiple tests or you can just go on historical data. I dont do this but I guess you can if you were that concerned of your engine "health." Frankly I'm just looking for anything that should'nt be there. It's my daily. Not my track car that needs every earned cent invested in it.