Buzzing noise from rear view mirror (now includes FIX procedure)
#1
Buzzing noise from rear view mirror (now includes FIX procedure)
Just got my windshield replaced..
Now I notice a buzzing noise coming from the rear view mirror inside when I drive over rough roads. If I just place my hand on the mirror housing it stops. It's not broken but probably something that happened from the handling of removal and install. Now it buzzes
The mirror is also creaky when I adjust it, but that's probably normal.
I read there is a TSIB about the rear view mirror rattle/vibration, what is that about and is this what I have.. I have a '07
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...v006-07-a.html
Thanks
Now I notice a buzzing noise coming from the rear view mirror inside when I drive over rough roads. If I just place my hand on the mirror housing it stops. It's not broken but probably something that happened from the handling of removal and install. Now it buzzes
The mirror is also creaky when I adjust it, but that's probably normal.
I read there is a TSIB about the rear view mirror rattle/vibration, what is that about and is this what I have.. I have a '07
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...v006-07-a.html
Thanks
#5
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I'm currently battling the same thing in my 1st gen IS. They had a similar TSIB but apparently i'm out of warranty so I couldn't get it fixed for free. Its really annoying as it comes and goes, I've noticed it buzzes a lot in the morning or esp. when its cold outside for some reason. Still cant pinpoint where the buzz is coming from exactly as sometimes just touching the mirror causes it to stop where as other times between my finger between the mirrors base and the windshield causes it to stop. For now when it does start buzzing i just push the base toward the windshield a little and it helps but not all the time. Would appreciate any more advice if you guys have any, thanks.
#6
I noticed the top stem of the mirror where it enters the headliner can slide down, revealing a wire inside, it is against the glass and I wonder if this is vibrating and causing a buzzing noise, so I am going to put a piece of foam or something soft to squeeze in the area to see if that is causing the noise.
#7
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Restoring a necro-thread with complete instructions on how to stop the buzzing.
First, you'll need a T-20 torx screwdriver to remove the screw holding the mirror. Remove the screw completely. It's easier this way. Then remove the cover for the wire harness connector, and disconnect the connector. Slide the mirror up and it will come off the windshield.
Take the mirror to a place where you can work and put down something protective like the hand towel in my pictures. Start at the bottom with a tool (I used a screwdriver, a plastic tool would be better) and release the snaps holding the bottom together.
Snaps are located here on the bottom:
And here on the top:
Once you have the frame apart, the boards will want to fall out. If you like, you can disconnect the mirror from the control board, and it will make it easier to smooth the top of the circuit card. You will also want to insert some extra medium density foam strips. I just used some weather stripping I had on hand.
Since I already did the modification to the board, you really can't see what I did, but these bumps on the bottom of the board (also visible above) look just like what I removed from the top edge of the board.
Here's the top edge of the circuit card post-filing. You could also do this with any decent sandpaper. I used a 10" mill bastard file because it cuts fast and is long enough to make the whole edge straight very easily.
This shot shows the location of the plastic stiffeners responsible for rubbing on the circuit card and making the buzzing noise. I chose not to modify them because they are responsible for strengthening the plastic housing, and making it weaker would only make it more likely to buzz again.
Once you've smoothed out the circuit card and inserted some additional foam, snap everything back together - don't forget the AUTO button, it likes to fall out easily - and install the mirror. Put a drop of blue Loctite on the screw and tighten it snug, but not stupid tight. Over-tightening could make bad things happen with the mount. Reconnect the wiring, put the connector cover back on and slide it up into the headliner.
Start the car and test. If your compass has lost its way, there is a procedure for calibrating it in your owner's manual, and you'll need to know which zone you are in before you start. See attached PDF.
First, you'll need a T-20 torx screwdriver to remove the screw holding the mirror. Remove the screw completely. It's easier this way. Then remove the cover for the wire harness connector, and disconnect the connector. Slide the mirror up and it will come off the windshield.
Take the mirror to a place where you can work and put down something protective like the hand towel in my pictures. Start at the bottom with a tool (I used a screwdriver, a plastic tool would be better) and release the snaps holding the bottom together.
Snaps are located here on the bottom:
And here on the top:
Once you have the frame apart, the boards will want to fall out. If you like, you can disconnect the mirror from the control board, and it will make it easier to smooth the top of the circuit card. You will also want to insert some extra medium density foam strips. I just used some weather stripping I had on hand.
Since I already did the modification to the board, you really can't see what I did, but these bumps on the bottom of the board (also visible above) look just like what I removed from the top edge of the board.
Here's the top edge of the circuit card post-filing. You could also do this with any decent sandpaper. I used a 10" mill bastard file because it cuts fast and is long enough to make the whole edge straight very easily.
This shot shows the location of the plastic stiffeners responsible for rubbing on the circuit card and making the buzzing noise. I chose not to modify them because they are responsible for strengthening the plastic housing, and making it weaker would only make it more likely to buzz again.
Once you've smoothed out the circuit card and inserted some additional foam, snap everything back together - don't forget the AUTO button, it likes to fall out easily - and install the mirror. Put a drop of blue Loctite on the screw and tighten it snug, but not stupid tight. Over-tightening could make bad things happen with the mount. Reconnect the wiring, put the connector cover back on and slide it up into the headliner.
Start the car and test. If your compass has lost its way, there is a procedure for calibrating it in your owner's manual, and you'll need to know which zone you are in before you start. See attached PDF.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 10-31-12 at 10:19 PM.
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kleepytime (04-22-23)
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#8
Restoring a necro-thread with complete instructions on how to stop the buzzing.
First, you'll need a T-20 torx screwdriver to remove the screw holding the mirror. Remove the screw completely. It's easier this way. Then remove the cover for the wire harness connector, and disconnect the connector. Slide the mirror up and it will come off the windshield.
Take the mirror to a place where you can work and put down something protective like the hand towel in my pictures. Start at the bottom with a tool (I used a screwdriver, a plastic tool would be better) and release the snaps holding the bottom together.
<snip>
First, you'll need a T-20 torx screwdriver to remove the screw holding the mirror. Remove the screw completely. It's easier this way. Then remove the cover for the wire harness connector, and disconnect the connector. Slide the mirror up and it will come off the windshield.
Take the mirror to a place where you can work and put down something protective like the hand towel in my pictures. Start at the bottom with a tool (I used a screwdriver, a plastic tool would be better) and release the snaps holding the bottom together.
<snip>
I just pulled it apart as per your instructions - T20 and slide it off, first disconnecting the plug, and removing the little telescoping plastic wiring cover (which is pretty neat really)
I used an old credit-card to prise apart the two half clips to reduce the screwdriver damage...
I put some door weatherstripping foam in places, and shaved those little bumps on the circuitboard.
Time will tell if if that is enough, otherwise next-time it's getting bluetack around the edge...
Cheers
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