Abs light on with trac off flashing car won't go to gear
#1
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Abs light on with trac off flashing car won't go to gear
So I'm from dfw and first winter with this car. Tonight is the first night the temp is dropping to freezing so no idea if this caused it but I went to my car and started it up. I go put the car into gear and notice it won't go into gear. This was when I realize the abs light was on solid and my trac off light was blinking steadily. I hit my brakes and notice my brake light is not working at all but when I turn my lights on the taillight turns on and everything work but still no brake light. I let the car warm up and resettled the ecu. Problem still there. All fuses are fine and I would try jump the brake switch on the bottom but it's 4 wire switch so I did not mess with that. Car idles and revs just fine. I drove an hour earlier all day with not a single problem. No check engine light and not sure if it's the temperature drop causing this. I know my abs sensor should be fine cause when I pulled on the drive way and drove in the lights were all off and I have a long drive way so it would have warned me there. I have search and no answer really clarify anything. Can't be o2 if the car idles and revs fine, that switch wouldn't have anything to do with the abs nor trac for the brake pedal, and my brakes work fine all day and bulbs all seem fine. Just now I broke my third brake light bulb trying to get a volt reading but this was afterward.
Adding. To add just now I didn't catch is the brake light is on too. Solid and not blinking. I can manual bypass to put the car into gear and it drives fine but don't want to risk driving due to no brake lights. Transmission and brake fluid are fine and check weekly. I have a cheap obd2 scanner so I guess I won't pick any of those codes off.
Adding. To add just now I didn't catch is the brake light is on too. Solid and not blinking. I can manual bypass to put the car into gear and it drives fine but don't want to risk driving due to no brake lights. Transmission and brake fluid are fine and check weekly. I have a cheap obd2 scanner so I guess I won't pick any of those codes off.
Last edited by DatSRBoi; 11-24-13 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Adding to it
#5
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what year is the car? I know 2001 is3 the trac switch is on the shifter, as compared to 02-up that is located under the stereo panel. I would check the connection/or wiring of the trac/snow switch if it is on a 01, sometimes weird things happen when a loose/broken wire is present. Or the switch could be bad.
I second mitsuguys diagonosis of the brake switch. Seen those suckers go bad, or give problems when not properly adjusted. Though those life saver looking plastic grommets always crap out and need replacing also.....but that would cause the brake lites to be continuously on, not off like you said......
I second mitsuguys diagonosis of the brake switch. Seen those suckers go bad, or give problems when not properly adjusted. Though those life saver looking plastic grommets always crap out and need replacing also.....but that would cause the brake lites to be continuously on, not off like you said......
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my bad, mitsuguy....you're absolutely correct. late night tweaking post.......
.......check the abs ecu unit connections under the dash near the pedals too. Wire may be loose, or unit bad.
.......check the abs ecu unit connections under the dash near the pedals too. Wire may be loose, or unit bad.
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#8
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Sorry I forgot up post my fixes.
Posting this up for future owners. It was a fuse. My guess was my brake light bulb went out and shorted the fuse out somehow. It was the 15amp "stop" fuse. I checked it and checked it many times and it was good!!!! I even put a cheap volt gauge up to it to check for a complete circuit and it pass. I jumped the brake switch and it gave no result which puzzled me. So I went and test the fuse again and it pass. I went through every fuse in that panel just cause I was there and upon putting it back in I accidentally put a 20amp fuse from another spot into the stop fuse location. Car started up fine and and everything worked like normal. Telling myself wtf I realize I had put the fuse into the wrong place so went and replaced it into the right place originally and put a new 15 fuse in and everything work. I switch out the new fuse with the old one and same problem. Confuse as hell I went and grab the good fluke expensive volt meter and bam it says no complete circuit. Tried it with the harbor freight volt meter I was using and bam it says complete circuit...... So problem fix and today I learn.... Use a good volt meter next time. Thank you Jasonm4 for all the advise. Had you not told me the wiring in that switch I would have continued to never check the fuses again.
Posting this up for future owners. It was a fuse. My guess was my brake light bulb went out and shorted the fuse out somehow. It was the 15amp "stop" fuse. I checked it and checked it many times and it was good!!!! I even put a cheap volt gauge up to it to check for a complete circuit and it pass. I jumped the brake switch and it gave no result which puzzled me. So I went and test the fuse again and it pass. I went through every fuse in that panel just cause I was there and upon putting it back in I accidentally put a 20amp fuse from another spot into the stop fuse location. Car started up fine and and everything worked like normal. Telling myself wtf I realize I had put the fuse into the wrong place so went and replaced it into the right place originally and put a new 15 fuse in and everything work. I switch out the new fuse with the old one and same problem. Confuse as hell I went and grab the good fluke expensive volt meter and bam it says no complete circuit. Tried it with the harbor freight volt meter I was using and bam it says complete circuit...... So problem fix and today I learn.... Use a good volt meter next time. Thank you Jasonm4 for all the advise. Had you not told me the wiring in that switch I would have continued to never check the fuses again.
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