Another happy FIGS customer - OS Giken LSD
#16
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
The sway bar won't be necessary if the spring rates are right. Internet chassis tuning always cracks me up. People who have never even squared a chassis giving advice about things they don't even begin to comprehend.
Don't waste your money on intake polishing. The only port work worth anything happens in the last half inch before the valve. The intake manifold is a waste of time if you haven't done the heads first.
Don't waste your money on intake polishing. The only port work worth anything happens in the last half inch before the valve. The intake manifold is a waste of time if you haven't done the heads first.
#17
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (9)
Lexus sells the F-Sport bar set (front & rear) for the IS250 and IS350, without any changes to spring rates, and there is a separate thread over there that's 63 pages long with members extolling the virtues of the front and rear set. The front bar on the ISF is the same OD as the F-Sport bar so it's unnecessary on ISFs, but the rear F-Sport bar does have noticeable advantages for the ISF. It roughens up the ride a bit, but it's totally worth it IMHO.
Lou
#19
The Maker
iTrader: (11)
Sway bars are a band-aid for running spring rates that are too low (OEM). And they should not roughen the ride at all because the are a cross spring rate, meaning differential between R and L sides. If the R and L side spring rates where sufficient when sway bar would not add much in terms of additional resistance and that is all the Lobux is saying. I agree that the rear sway bar did little on our car that already had the proper spring rate and suspension geometry. But for those still running OE shocks and springs there is a benefit. On our PROAngle drift steering kit we actually eliminate the front sway bar completely in favor of higher individual spring rates. Why? because not only does the sway bar get in the way, an independent suspension grips better when encountering uneven surfaces while banked. There are limits to how stiff you can make a sway bar relative to an actual coil spring as well as non linearity in how they behave as they rotate. Just something to thing about rather than arguing 2 different points.
Sway bar on stock car will see an improvement.
Sway bar of the same scale applied to a car with higher independent spring rates will be proportionally less effective.
One last thing to note is that the spring rate on the shock has a higher influence because its motion ratio is higher (closer to the outside of the wheel) vs the inset connection of the sway bar.
Mike
Sway bar on stock car will see an improvement.
Sway bar of the same scale applied to a car with higher independent spring rates will be proportionally less effective.
One last thing to note is that the spring rate on the shock has a higher influence because its motion ratio is higher (closer to the outside of the wheel) vs the inset connection of the sway bar.
Mike
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
#20
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: OR
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Huge thanks to Mike at FIGS for setting me up with an OS Giken 1.5-way LSD for my '09 IS-F. The car's always run pretty strong (12.4 at 114 MPH best, on stock RE-050s, with only a 3" mandrel / single Magnaflow axleback and a 20 lb Deka battery). But it was miserable coming out of any turn, lighting up the inside tire. Ugh.
I finally had enough bonus money saved up to do the OSG diff, and am very glad I did.
Zero noise, zero downside, just grip everywhere. No more cringing or nose-crinkling when adding throttle around a turn - just grips and hauls the mail. And if it's wet or on an autocross course, it's a blast to step the tail out just a bit for rotation. SO much more enjoyable than the car I've driven the past few years.
Major thanks to Paul, John and the guys at Marsh Transmission in Tualatin for executing the installation so seamlessly. No gear whine, no pinion adjustment needed, just light clearancing on the housing and a new pair of Lexus bearings (not cheap, ~ $105/ea) and seals. Totally worth it.
Once my savings recovers, it might be time for some suspension. As it is though, the car is an absolute blast. Will be interesting to see whether there's any improvement in 1/4 mile time (my old 60' was 1.96-ish... if this helps get me to 1.85 range I'll be pleasantly surprised - primary reason for doing this was cornering).
This allows me to continue enjoying the IS-F for a few more years, as I was considering the new M3 before putting a diff under this car. Although I just read in M/T the new M3s are running 12.1 @ 119 MPH, I'll let BMW sort the bugs out (e.g., their HPFP issues & who knows what else) while enjoying the IS-F's phenomenal build quality.
If any of you have considered upgrading to the OSG 1.5 way from either an open '08/'09 setup, or even a Torsen in '10+, there is no downside other than money. It's a great mod you'll grin about every time you drive the car.
I finally had enough bonus money saved up to do the OSG diff, and am very glad I did.
Zero noise, zero downside, just grip everywhere. No more cringing or nose-crinkling when adding throttle around a turn - just grips and hauls the mail. And if it's wet or on an autocross course, it's a blast to step the tail out just a bit for rotation. SO much more enjoyable than the car I've driven the past few years.
Major thanks to Paul, John and the guys at Marsh Transmission in Tualatin for executing the installation so seamlessly. No gear whine, no pinion adjustment needed, just light clearancing on the housing and a new pair of Lexus bearings (not cheap, ~ $105/ea) and seals. Totally worth it.
Once my savings recovers, it might be time for some suspension. As it is though, the car is an absolute blast. Will be interesting to see whether there's any improvement in 1/4 mile time (my old 60' was 1.96-ish... if this helps get me to 1.85 range I'll be pleasantly surprised - primary reason for doing this was cornering).
This allows me to continue enjoying the IS-F for a few more years, as I was considering the new M3 before putting a diff under this car. Although I just read in M/T the new M3s are running 12.1 @ 119 MPH, I'll let BMW sort the bugs out (e.g., their HPFP issues & who knows what else) while enjoying the IS-F's phenomenal build quality.
If any of you have considered upgrading to the OSG 1.5 way from either an open '08/'09 setup, or even a Torsen in '10+, there is no downside other than money. It's a great mod you'll grin about every time you drive the car.
I just got my 08 ISF titled and registered 3 days ago and I'm noticing how much it sucks to have the back end slip out around a corner when I get on it.
So, I'm seriously considering an LSD.
Does Marsh Transmission do the ordering for the OS Giken 1.5 or do I call FIGS and have it shipped to Marsh Transmission? Also, how did you find out Marsh was such a great place to have the F worked on? Thanks man.
~Adam
#22
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
There you go again I have had the F-Sport Sway Bar for quite some time now, and I can tell you unequivocally that it did, in fact, reduce sway. I was more planted. Believe it or don't, I really don't care. However, I'm posting this so maybe some forum members minds don't get poisoned by some of your silly posts.
Lexus sells the F-Sport bar set (front & rear) for the IS250 and IS350, without any changes to spring rates, and there is a separate thread over there that's 63 pages long with members extolling the virtues of the front and rear set. The front bar on the ISF is the same OD as the F-Sport bar so it's unnecessary on ISFs, but the rear F-Sport bar does have noticeable advantages for the ISF. It roughens up the ride a bit, but it's totally worth it IMHO.
Lou
Lexus sells the F-Sport bar set (front & rear) for the IS250 and IS350, without any changes to spring rates, and there is a separate thread over there that's 63 pages long with members extolling the virtues of the front and rear set. The front bar on the ISF is the same OD as the F-Sport bar so it's unnecessary on ISFs, but the rear F-Sport bar does have noticeable advantages for the ISF. It roughens up the ride a bit, but it's totally worth it IMHO.
Lou
I did chassis tuning on a mini-sprint. It's a sprint car with a motorcycle engine. I learned an awful lot about car setup, and the thing I learned first is, it's very difficult to decide what needs to change first. If you do any homework at all (and there are some really great books out there on chassis tuning), every single one of the guys who knows what he is talking about says "Get the spring rates right first." There's no fixing bad spring rates.
I don't doubt the car "feels" better with a stiffer sway bar on the stock springs, or even any street oriented setup. It does not mean it is actually faster. It just feels better. There is a huge difference and that's what I am talking about.
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