Rearview Mirror Buzzing Fix
#1
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Rearview Mirror Buzzing Fix
I fixed the buzzing noise coming from my original rearview mirror last weekend. I know a lot of people got the TSB mirror to replace the original one. I didn't because I like the button layout on the original model better, but over time, it started to buzz to the point it got really annoying.
At first it sounded like the noise was coming from the dash - glovebox, passenger's vent, dashboard itself - something. But I discovered it was the mirror one day when I reached up to move the mirror and the buzzing stopped. After that, every time I noticed the buzz, I'd grab the mirror on the right side and squeeze it front to back and the noise stopped. So I figured there had to be a way to stop it since it didn't make the noise when it was new.
I took the mirror off, disconnected the electrical connector (hoped it would not lose the memory for the garage doors or the compass settings), and disassembled the front and back of the mirror with a small screwdriver to push down the clips holding it together.
Once apart, it wasn't obvious where the problem was until I took a look at the circuit board on the right hand side where the compass display is mounted. Along the top edge, I could see tiny fret marks on the edge of the circuit board where it contacts the plastic shell at the top across four distinct plastic supports.
I trimmed down the circuit board with a coarse mill bastard file until the fret marks were gone. This did not endanger any of the circuits on the board, and I was also very careful not to slip and damage something with the file.
I added some extra medium density foam weatherstripping to the back of the mirror and the circuit board before snapping everything back together, then installed the mirror, reconnected the connector, put the wire cover in place (which I previously blamed for the noise), and started the car.
The Homelink settings remained, and the compass calibration was intact. I recalibrated it anyway because I live on a cul-de-sac with an easy circular drive at the end to recalibrate it.
Finally, off for a test drive. Absolutely silent! Victory at last!
Now I have to find the sources of the other noises the mirror buzzing was masking....
If anyone is interested, I'll take it off and shoot pictures of what to do...Post up if you want pics!
At first it sounded like the noise was coming from the dash - glovebox, passenger's vent, dashboard itself - something. But I discovered it was the mirror one day when I reached up to move the mirror and the buzzing stopped. After that, every time I noticed the buzz, I'd grab the mirror on the right side and squeeze it front to back and the noise stopped. So I figured there had to be a way to stop it since it didn't make the noise when it was new.
I took the mirror off, disconnected the electrical connector (hoped it would not lose the memory for the garage doors or the compass settings), and disassembled the front and back of the mirror with a small screwdriver to push down the clips holding it together.
Once apart, it wasn't obvious where the problem was until I took a look at the circuit board on the right hand side where the compass display is mounted. Along the top edge, I could see tiny fret marks on the edge of the circuit board where it contacts the plastic shell at the top across four distinct plastic supports.
I trimmed down the circuit board with a coarse mill bastard file until the fret marks were gone. This did not endanger any of the circuits on the board, and I was also very careful not to slip and damage something with the file.
I added some extra medium density foam weatherstripping to the back of the mirror and the circuit board before snapping everything back together, then installed the mirror, reconnected the connector, put the wire cover in place (which I previously blamed for the noise), and started the car.
The Homelink settings remained, and the compass calibration was intact. I recalibrated it anyway because I live on a cul-de-sac with an easy circular drive at the end to recalibrate it.
Finally, off for a test drive. Absolutely silent! Victory at last!
Now I have to find the sources of the other noises the mirror buzzing was masking....
If anyone is interested, I'll take it off and shoot pictures of what to do...Post up if you want pics!
#3
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iTrader: (2)
OK - pics - and I'll probably link this thread in the 2IS forum since they have the same unit.
First, you'll need a T-20 torx screwdriver to remove the screw holding the mirror. Remove the screw completely. It's easier this way. Then remove the cover for the wire harness connector, and disconnect the connector. Slide the mirror up and it will come off the windshield.
Take the mirror to a place where you can work and put down something protective like the hand towel in my pictures. Start at the bottom with a tool (I used a screwdriver, a plastic tool would be better) and release the snaps holding the bottom together.
Snaps are located here on the bottom:
And here on the top:
Once you have the frame apart, the boards will want to fall out. If you like, you can disconnect the mirror from the control board, and it will make it easier to smooth the top of the circuit card. You will also want to insert some extra medium density foam strips. I just used some weather stripping I had on hand.
Since I already did the modification to the board, you really can't see what I did, but these bumps on the bottom of the board (also visible above) look just like what I removed from the top edge of the board.
Here's the top edge of the circuit card post-filing. You could also do this with any decent sandpaper. I used a 10" mill bastard file because it cuts fast and is long enough to make the whole edge straight very easily.
This shot shows the location of the plastic stiffeners responsible for rubbing on the circuit card and making the buzzing noise. I chose not to modify them because they are responsible for strengthening the plastic housing, and making it weaker would only make it more likely to buzz again.
Once you've smoothed out the circuit card and inserted some additional foam, snap everything back together - don't forget the AUTO button, it likes to fall out easily - and install the mirror. Put a drop of blue Loctite on the screw and tighten it snug, but not stupid tight. Over-tightening could make bad things happen with the mount. Reconnect the wiring, put the connector cover back on and slide it up into the headliner.
Start the car and test. If your compass has lost its way, there is a procedure for calibrating it in your owner's manual, and you'll need to know which zone you are in before you start. See attached PDF.
First, you'll need a T-20 torx screwdriver to remove the screw holding the mirror. Remove the screw completely. It's easier this way. Then remove the cover for the wire harness connector, and disconnect the connector. Slide the mirror up and it will come off the windshield.
Take the mirror to a place where you can work and put down something protective like the hand towel in my pictures. Start at the bottom with a tool (I used a screwdriver, a plastic tool would be better) and release the snaps holding the bottom together.
Snaps are located here on the bottom:
And here on the top:
Once you have the frame apart, the boards will want to fall out. If you like, you can disconnect the mirror from the control board, and it will make it easier to smooth the top of the circuit card. You will also want to insert some extra medium density foam strips. I just used some weather stripping I had on hand.
Since I already did the modification to the board, you really can't see what I did, but these bumps on the bottom of the board (also visible above) look just like what I removed from the top edge of the board.
Here's the top edge of the circuit card post-filing. You could also do this with any decent sandpaper. I used a 10" mill bastard file because it cuts fast and is long enough to make the whole edge straight very easily.
This shot shows the location of the plastic stiffeners responsible for rubbing on the circuit card and making the buzzing noise. I chose not to modify them because they are responsible for strengthening the plastic housing, and making it weaker would only make it more likely to buzz again.
Once you've smoothed out the circuit card and inserted some additional foam, snap everything back together - don't forget the AUTO button, it likes to fall out easily - and install the mirror. Put a drop of blue Loctite on the screw and tighten it snug, but not stupid tight. Over-tightening could make bad things happen with the mount. Reconnect the wiring, put the connector cover back on and slide it up into the headliner.
Start the car and test. If your compass has lost its way, there is a procedure for calibrating it in your owner's manual, and you'll need to know which zone you are in before you start. See attached PDF.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 10-31-12 at 10:19 PM.
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GrizzlyMan (03-25-21)
#6
Lexus Test Driver
My car rattles everywhere lately and it's starting to **** me off.... I had to jamb folded up piece of paper in between the speedo surround and top of dash to get it to stop squeaking all the time now I have something rattling from the back seat area gota find what it is and jamb some more paper in that now ..... Fml
#7
Tech Info Resource
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
My car rattles everywhere lately and it's starting to **** me off.... I had to jamb folded up piece of paper in between the speedo surround and top of dash to get it to stop squeaking all the time now I have something rattling from the back seat area gota find what it is and jamb some more paper in that now ..... Fml
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#8
Pole Position
iTrader: (5)
awesome post. I just got a 2012 IS F, so I thankfully don't have this issue. But it bothers me that this car doesn't have the basic mirror compass feature that even my older IS300 had. Your post mentioned that my mirror is different than yours? What year IS F (or 2nd-gen ISX50) did the mirrors change to the new version, and does yours have a compass on it?
If yes, I'm going to see if it's possible to switch mine out for the one you have
If yes, I'm going to see if it's possible to switch mine out for the one you have
#9
Pole Position
iTrader: (8)
Take a look at this thread. The 3M Silicone lube linked in the first post is magical. I have two cans of it...
Also, the the OP says "3M Silicone Lubricant Plus Wet Type is the magic spray," but the 3M link is for the "dry type." Which one do you recommend?
#10
Tech Info Resource
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Dry type is what was in the Infiniti link. I have the dry type. I have used it, and it definitely works well.
#12
awesome post. I just got a 2012 IS F, so I thankfully don't have this issue. But it bothers me that this car doesn't have the basic mirror compass feature that even my older IS300 had. Your post mentioned that my mirror is different than yours? What year IS F (or 2nd-gen ISX50) did the mirrors change to the new version, and does yours have a compass on it?
If yes, I'm going to see if it's possible to switch mine out for the one you have
If yes, I'm going to see if it's possible to switch mine out for the one you have
#13
My car rattles everywhere lately and it's starting to **** me off.... I had to jamb folded up piece of paper in between the speedo surround and top of dash to get it to stop squeaking all the time now I have something rattling from the back seat area gota find what it is and jamb some more paper in that now ..... Fml
#15
Thanks a ton, this winter the mirror rattling drove me nuts. On my 07 I took the mirror down, and added some foam pretty much where you did, and some electrical tape to the tabs the board is resting on, can't wait to "hear" the results.
Next is the sunroof, annoying like s@&$!
Next is the sunroof, annoying like s@&$!