14 IS250 no start
#1
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14 IS250 no start
Hey Guy,
New to the forum here... i have a 14 is250 and i can get the thing running for the life of me. Bought it with a broken rod, car still ran fine with no issues (other than the rod). Got a motor, did the swap. went to fire her up and got all the lights to turn on but no starter engagement. Car kept saying put vehicle into park, but the vehicle was in park. i could not get the car to read P on the cluster, the only gear it would read is Reverse. Me and my mechanics deemed it as a bad shifter. swapped a shifter and still same problem. Swapped a Park neutral safety switch and still same problem. I get no power to starter relay, if we jump the relay we can get the car to turn over but not run. Tested the main engine computer bad grounds/voltage issues, still nothing abnormal. Keep in mind, i have no dtcs being pulled on the scanner, nothing... car is good to go. Got frustrated and sent it to handpick lexus of norhlake locally in Charlotte,NC. They deemed it as a faulty keyless computer, bought the computer $700 later + labor and still same problem. They said the wiring to it was bad, traced the wires to the main engine computer and all voltage is good. Really don't want to send it back without some more opinions... I've read some threads about the ID control box behind the heater core, but i just don't see it being that.. plus don't want to pay to remove it lol.
let me know what you think
Thanks
Max
New to the forum here... i have a 14 is250 and i can get the thing running for the life of me. Bought it with a broken rod, car still ran fine with no issues (other than the rod). Got a motor, did the swap. went to fire her up and got all the lights to turn on but no starter engagement. Car kept saying put vehicle into park, but the vehicle was in park. i could not get the car to read P on the cluster, the only gear it would read is Reverse. Me and my mechanics deemed it as a bad shifter. swapped a shifter and still same problem. Swapped a Park neutral safety switch and still same problem. I get no power to starter relay, if we jump the relay we can get the car to turn over but not run. Tested the main engine computer bad grounds/voltage issues, still nothing abnormal. Keep in mind, i have no dtcs being pulled on the scanner, nothing... car is good to go. Got frustrated and sent it to handpick lexus of norhlake locally in Charlotte,NC. They deemed it as a faulty keyless computer, bought the computer $700 later + labor and still same problem. They said the wiring to it was bad, traced the wires to the main engine computer and all voltage is good. Really don't want to send it back without some more opinions... I've read some threads about the ID control box behind the heater core, but i just don't see it being that.. plus don't want to pay to remove it lol.
let me know what you think
Thanks
Max
#5
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
Hey Guy,
New to the forum here... i have a 14 is250 and i can get the thing running for the life of me. Bought it with a broken rod, car still ran fine with no issues (other than the rod). Got a motor, did the swap. went to fire her up and got all the lights to turn on but no starter engagement. Car kept saying put vehicle into park, but the vehicle was in park. i could not get the car to read P on the cluster, the only gear it would read is Reverse. Me and my mechanics deemed it as a bad shifter. swapped a shifter and still same problem. Swapped a Park neutral safety switch and still same problem. I get no power to starter relay, if we jump the relay we can get the car to turn over but not run. Tested the main engine computer bad grounds/voltage issues, still nothing abnormal. Keep in mind, i have no dtcs being pulled on the scanner, nothing... car is good to go. Got frustrated and sent it to handpick lexus of norhlake locally in Charlotte,NC. They deemed it as a faulty keyless computer, bought the computer $700 later + labor and still same problem. They said the wiring to it was bad, traced the wires to the main engine computer and all voltage is good. Really don't want to send it back without some more opinions... I've read some threads about the ID control box behind the heater core, but i just don't see it being that.. plus don't want to pay to remove it lol.
let me know what you think
Thanks
Max
New to the forum here... i have a 14 is250 and i can get the thing running for the life of me. Bought it with a broken rod, car still ran fine with no issues (other than the rod). Got a motor, did the swap. went to fire her up and got all the lights to turn on but no starter engagement. Car kept saying put vehicle into park, but the vehicle was in park. i could not get the car to read P on the cluster, the only gear it would read is Reverse. Me and my mechanics deemed it as a bad shifter. swapped a shifter and still same problem. Swapped a Park neutral safety switch and still same problem. I get no power to starter relay, if we jump the relay we can get the car to turn over but not run. Tested the main engine computer bad grounds/voltage issues, still nothing abnormal. Keep in mind, i have no dtcs being pulled on the scanner, nothing... car is good to go. Got frustrated and sent it to handpick lexus of norhlake locally in Charlotte,NC. They deemed it as a faulty keyless computer, bought the computer $700 later + labor and still same problem. They said the wiring to it was bad, traced the wires to the main engine computer and all voltage is good. Really don't want to send it back without some more opinions... I've read some threads about the ID control box behind the heater core, but i just don't see it being that.. plus don't want to pay to remove it lol.
let me know what you think
Thanks
Max
OP: did you get a replacement 250 or 350? i ask because the transmission's computer may not communicate properly between the 2 engines
Last edited by dnasians; 12-16-16 at 08:03 AM.
#6
#7
Pole Position
The starter circuit wiring on these cars is insanely simple but the ECU(s) have a lot of dependencies (e.g.,like the steering lock actuator has to be in the right state to permit the engine to crank - if it is not the code NG will be displayed in Techstream but no DTC is set). There should be enough diagnostic indicators available in Techstream to debug this without the need to swap parts.
Did you follow the Techstream diagnostic process in the TIS?
In particular, check the procedure documented in the SMART ACCESS SYSTEM WITH PUSH-BUTTON START..
Did you follow the Techstream diagnostic process in the TIS?
In particular, check the procedure documented in the SMART ACCESS SYSTEM WITH PUSH-BUTTON START..
Last edited by LeapFrog; 12-16-16 at 09:49 AM.
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