Continuously warping rotors!? - Club Lexus Forums


Go Back   Club Lexus Forums > Lexus Model Forums > IS Models > IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
Log In 

Continuously warping rotors!?

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-23-15, 07:49 AM   #1
DKIS350
Rookie
Trader Score: (0)
 
DKIS350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 59
Default Continuously warping rotors!?

Okay so heres the deal...Since the day i bought my IS350 year an a half ago i have had a braking pulsation. The dealer replaced the rear pads, rotors, and calipers (as the caliper slides were seized), and the car was better....but still had a slight pulsation. So they replaced the front pads and rotors. The car drove like a dream for about 1500 miles and the pulsation started coming back. They replaced the pads and rotors under warranty again, and now again, about 1200 miles later, the pulsation is returning. I even took all of the calipers, pins and slides apart on my own to make sure nothing was seized, and that the dealer didnt over look anything. Everything looks perfect.

Im not hard on the car, and I cant say i have EVER warped rotors like this on any other car. I do all highway, with almost no stop and go. I never even warped rotors like this on my 04 GTO which was autocrossed, heavy, and had little tiny brakes.

Any ideas? Could i have a warped hub or something that is only apparent when the rotor warps to the hub after some time???

Im at the point of wanting to trade it for another Lexus. 30k miles a year in a car that always shakes when you stop is getting old.
DKIS350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 10:16 AM   #2
jallow33
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NY
Posts: 18
Default

Similar situation here. Purchased my IS350 Last February. After about 5000 miles, warping in the front rotors after dealer changed brakes. I changed the rotors, and followed a break in procedure. 20k miles later, no warping, no pulsating, no vibration, just smooth stopping. Perhaps you need to bed the brakes to match with the rotors so it doesnt develop warping after some few mileage. May be possible case.
jallow33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 11:07 AM   #3
Gustavo621
Driver School Candidate
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: IL
Posts: 33
Default

Are you using OEM rotors?
Gustavo621 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 11:50 AM   #4
DKIS350
Rookie
Trader Score: (0)
 
DKIS350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 59
Default

Yes, factory parts only, that way Lexus can continue to help me with this issue. I made an appointment for next week, so we'll see what happens then.

I appreciate any input anybody has before before I bring it in next week. I dont believe its all four rotors warping right now. Mostly feels like its in the steering wheel. First thing I guess they need to identify if its both front rotors that are warped, or just one. Since this has been an issue since day 1 (since i purchased it used) Im starting to wonder if something is bent or damaged. The new front rotors fixed it last time for a few weeks.

Last edited by DKIS350; 04-23-15 at 11:54 AM.
DKIS350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 02:03 PM   #5
getafewliv
Lead Lap
Trader Score: (0)
 
getafewliv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: BC
Posts: 729
Default

They really shouldn't be warping. I brake hard sometimes and have had zero issues and I don't even think the fronts on my car are OEM pads and rotors. They were done just before I bought the car, about 10,000km ago.

+1 for proper bed in procedure. This ensures an even layer of pad material embedded onto the rotors. If this is not done it is often the cause of "warped" rotors.

From what I have read, rotors shouldn't actually warp, it's an uneven pad deposit on the rotor causing the
feeling of them being warped.
__________________

2006 Lexus IS350 Smokey Granite Mica w/ Sport pkg
Megan EZ | F-Sport Rear Sway Bar | 2012 ISF Steering ECU | 18" TSW Nurburgring
Injen Intake | F sport Exhaust + Invidia midpipe | 6000K headlights + fogs
Roadrover navigation + backup cam | 2 10W6 JL subs + JL 1000/1
OEMthing spoiler + roof spoiler | F-Sport Grille | Fabulous Rep Front Lip + GXF sides/rear
getafewliv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 02:04 PM   #6
getafewliv
Lead Lap
Trader Score: (0)
 
getafewliv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: BC
Posts: 729
Default

Should mention as well, when I had my TSX, I had a similar issue. Rotors would be toast in no time at all. I switched to powerslot cryo treated rotors and hawk pads and noticed a big improvement.
__________________

2006 Lexus IS350 Smokey Granite Mica w/ Sport pkg
Megan EZ | F-Sport Rear Sway Bar | 2012 ISF Steering ECU | 18" TSW Nurburgring
Injen Intake | F sport Exhaust + Invidia midpipe | 6000K headlights + fogs
Roadrover navigation + backup cam | 2 10W6 JL subs + JL 1000/1
OEMthing spoiler + roof spoiler | F-Sport Grille | Fabulous Rep Front Lip + GXF sides/rear
getafewliv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 02:19 PM   #7
knguyenk
Pole Position
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 393
knguyenk knguyenk
Default

I had have issues with warping rotors where bed-in procedures was neglected. I've also read that incorrect (more like uneven) torque of the wheels can also be the cause, when the installer gets lazy and just guns them tight.

I just recently upgraded my brakes to the IS 350 brakes and made sure to bed-in the brakes and torque the wheels to factory specifications and I haven't experienced any issues with the OEM parts.
__________________
2007 Lexus IS 250 AWD
Black Sapphire Pearl / Black Leather / Premium Package / Navigation / HIDs
F Sport - Intake, Shift ****, Springs, Shocks, Rear Chassis Member Brace, Front and Rear Sway Bars, Exhaust
Putco Jet Yellow fog-lights, Solar Gard High Performance Tint 35%, Lexus IS AWD All Weather Floor Mats, Steering Damper, IS 350 Brake Calipers, Rotors, and Pads, IS/GS F Sport Center Caps, Michelin Primacy MXM4, Nigel IS x50 LED Taillight Style A, RRM Lexus 250 Power Manager
knguyenk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 04:12 PM   #8
Gville350
Lexus Fanatic
Trader Score: (9)
 
Gville350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 7,496
Default

No mentioning of the front calipers being rebuilt or being replaced was commented on. However, I'd agree the bed-in procedure is a MAJOR fact that helps with this issue.
__________________
'06 IS350 - 8.6468 @ 81.81MPH
Mods - SRI, BCRs, full GFX kit
Gville350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 04:41 PM   #9
valeoray
Driver
Trader Score: (0)
 
valeoray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 152
Default

Did you check if the lug nuts were torqued properly? Lexus is only 76 ft-lbs. If over torqued, it would also warp the rotors.
__________________
Richmond Hill, Ontario
2011 IS250 AWD
valeoray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-15, 11:43 PM   #10
topspeed55
Driver
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: AB
Posts: 108
Default

You'd think someone who has auto crossed before would know that rotors DON'T WARP.

http://stoptech.com/technical-suppor...nd-other-myths
topspeed55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-15, 05:14 AM   #11
DKIS350
Rookie
Trader Score: (0)
 
DKIS350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 59
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by topspeed55 View Post
You'd think someone who has auto crossed before would know that rotors DON'T WARP.
You'd think someone who has more knowledge to share with others, wouldn't try to come across as condescending.

For all intensive purposes, Im using the term "warped", the common phrase used across 95% of the automotive industry (though seldom accurate).

Regardless of weather or not the rotors are literally warped, my car shakes like a dog *****ting razor blades when stopping lol.

I think the unknown factor for me is, I don't know if the tech who replaced the pads, did a bed in procedure. I did it when i left the dealer, as thats what i would have done had i done the brakes myself. 6 stops from 35-40mph down to around 5mph using moderate pressure, and 3 heavier stops from about 65mph, down to about 5mph. I also dont know what the tech torqued them down to. Torque wrench? Torque stick? Maybe they just hammered the lugs on with the impact gun set to max at 220PSI. I cant say. I know I've seen some scary stuff come from techs at some of these dealerships that I visit ever other week. I've also seen some techs put out some sketchy work at the dealer I worked for. Nothing scarier than a new young guy who comes into a shop from a tech school thinking he knows it all because hes seen and done it all on paper.

I've replaced lots brakes on the 14 cars I've owned in the last 15 years, never had a repeat issue like this on any of them.

Ill see what Lexus does on Monday. Ill ask what they do for bed-in and wheel torque and go from there. I may end up going with aftermarket pads/rotors and just do it myself at home if time allows.

Any aftermarket recommendations?
DKIS350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-15, 10:55 AM   #12
getafewliv
Lead Lap
Trader Score: (0)
 
getafewliv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: BC
Posts: 729
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DKIS350 View Post
You'd think someone who has more knowledge to share with others, wouldn't try to come across as condescending.

For all intensive purposes, Im using the term "warped", the common phrase used across 95% of the automotive industry (though seldom accurate).

Regardless of weather or not the rotors are literally warped, my car shakes like a dog *****ting razor blades when stopping lol.

I think the unknown factor for me is, I don't know if the tech who replaced the pads, did a bed in procedure. I did it when i left the dealer, as thats what i would have done had i done the brakes myself. 6 stops from 35-40mph down to around 5mph using moderate pressure, and 3 heavier stops from about 65mph, down to about 5mph. I also dont know what the tech torqued them down to. Torque wrench? Torque stick? Maybe they just hammered the lugs on with the impact gun set to max at 220PSI. I cant say. I know I've seen some scary stuff come from techs at some of these dealerships that I visit ever other week. I've also seen some techs put out some sketchy work at the dealer I worked for. Nothing scarier than a new young guy who comes into a shop from a tech school thinking he knows it all because hes seen and done it all on paper.

I've replaced lots brakes on the 14 cars I've owned in the last 15 years, never had a repeat issue like this on any of them.

Ill see what Lexus does on Monday. Ill ask what they do for bed-in and wheel torque and go from there. I may end up going with aftermarket pads/rotors and just do it myself at home if time allows.

Any aftermarket recommendations?
For all intents and purposes.

I recommend powerslot cryo treated rotors. They should hold up nicely.
__________________

2006 Lexus IS350 Smokey Granite Mica w/ Sport pkg
Megan EZ | F-Sport Rear Sway Bar | 2012 ISF Steering ECU | 18" TSW Nurburgring
Injen Intake | F sport Exhaust + Invidia midpipe | 6000K headlights + fogs
Roadrover navigation + backup cam | 2 10W6 JL subs + JL 1000/1
OEMthing spoiler + roof spoiler | F-Sport Grille | Fabulous Rep Front Lip + GXF sides/rear
getafewliv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-15, 11:47 AM   #13
DKIS350
Rookie
Trader Score: (0)
 
DKIS350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 59
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by getafewliv View Post
For all intents and purposes.

I recommend powerslot cryo treated rotors. They should hold up nicely.

for the grammar correction...

for the powerslots.
DKIS350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-15, 12:44 PM   #14
NikonGuy
Driver
Trader Score: (1)
 
NikonGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: CO
Posts: 186
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by valeoray View Post
Did you check if the lug nuts were torqued properly? Lexus is only 76 ft-lbs. If over torqued, it would also warp the rotors.
+1000

Get a torque wrench and do it yourself regardless of what the dealer said. Torque it to 76 lbs with star pattern and you should be fine.

The most Important thing is to have equal torque on all lug nuts.
NikonGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-15, 05:47 AM   #15
Gregz_IS
Rookie
Trader Score: (0)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 89
Default

excessive lateral runout ... most likely the hub is the issue.

the fix...

http://www.procutusa.com/zipfind.aspx
__________________
2011 IS250 Smokey Granite Mica
Nav and all the rest
2002 ES300 Pearl White

ASE Master Technician since 1982
ASE L-1 since 1994
Automotive Instructor
Gregz_IS is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help! Why does my rotors warp in about a year? kphu GX - 1st Gen (2004-2009) 24 08-03-15 12:32 PM
Dealership swears that I have no brake/rotor issues..I insist otherwise Greezy LS - 4th Gen (2007-present) 43 02-05-15 10:18 AM
Help....Odd vibration/shimmy DKIS350 IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) 2 07-10-14 12:41 PM
Hub bearing grease Phil676 GX - 1st Gen (2004-2009) 0 11-18-13 08:01 PM
IS250 Rear hub roaring lateapex IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) 9 09-08-13 12:59 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:33 PM.

Copyright © 2000-2015 Internet Brands, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Privacy Policy | Disclaimer | Terms of Use | JOBS