What was your experience like buying your IS?
08-13-11, 12:55 PM
#16
Lexus Test Driver
Once I test drive and decide what I want I don't go back until I am picking up a car. Do everything by e-mail or phone. In the delaership you are in their domain and they have the upper hand. From your home or office you are in total control. If I was at a dealer for 6 hours I would go postal. How much BS can you hear in one day?
08-13-11, 11:39 PM
#17
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So how exactly do you order offline? What is the step by step process? Do you just build your car on there website and will they end you dealers with that type configuration or what??
08-13-11, 11:56 PM
#18
Lexus Test Driver
The process I did was this. Looked up all dealership websites in my region (Los Angeles). I then emailed each one through their website or internet department and stated which model, color, and options I wanted and what price I was willing to pay (research what others have been paying at Edmunds.com and other car buying websites). Nearly all replied back and a few actually had the car and/or said they could do it. After a few more emails, I narrowed it down to the one who had the car in stock with the lowest price. A phone call confirmed it all and sends the signal you are a real person and willing.
Now, much of this is on the honor system, as the dealer or buyer can change things once in person. But I specifically discuss with them that this is what we are agreeing upon and that I am serious and ready to buy now. You have to be a ready buyer and not waste their time, just as you'd not want them to waste your time. Drove down to the dealership, the car was ready, did the paperwork, and it was done. Got the exact car I wanted at a great price.
Bare in mind much of this is only possible if you have many dealerships in your region to choose from.
08-14-11, 12:18 AM
#19
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Good question.
The process I did was this. Looked up all dealership websites in my region (Los Angeles). I then emailed each one through their website or internet department and stated which model, color, and options I wanted and what price I was willing to pay (research what others have been paying at Edmunds.com and other car buying websites). Nearly all replied back and a few actually had the car and/or said they could do it. After a few more emails, I narrowed it down to the one who had the car in stock with the lowest price. A phone call confirmed it all and sends the signal you are a real person and willing.
Now, much of this is on the honor system, as the dealer or buyer can change things once in person. But I specifically discuss with them that this is what we are agreeing upon and that I am serious and ready to buy now. You have to be a ready buyer and not waste their time, just as you'd not want them to waste your time. Drove down to the dealership, the car was ready, did the paperwork, and it was done. Got the exact car I wanted at a great price.
Bare in mind much of this is only possible if you have many dealerships in your region to choose from.
The process I did was this. Looked up all dealership websites in my region (Los Angeles). I then emailed each one through their website or internet department and stated which model, color, and options I wanted and what price I was willing to pay (research what others have been paying at Edmunds.com and other car buying websites). Nearly all replied back and a few actually had the car and/or said they could do it. After a few more emails, I narrowed it down to the one who had the car in stock with the lowest price. A phone call confirmed it all and sends the signal you are a real person and willing.
Now, much of this is on the honor system, as the dealer or buyer can change things once in person. But I specifically discuss with them that this is what we are agreeing upon and that I am serious and ready to buy now. You have to be a ready buyer and not waste their time, just as you'd not want them to waste your time. Drove down to the dealership, the car was ready, did the paperwork, and it was done. Got the exact car I wanted at a great price.
Bare in mind much of this is only possible if you have many dealerships in your region to choose from.
08-14-11, 02:32 AM
#20
Dealer wasn't lying about KBB not being an accurate "on market" value. KBB Bases your car value as is.. not for what its worth on the market.. Example you car may be worth 18 thousand but market prices are only 15 thousand. There fore its only worth what people are willing to pay for. Use autotrader quotes those are more geared towards market value. Just like how you wouldn't pay 43 for the IS.
08-14-11, 07:54 AM
#21
I got 1k over kbb on my trade, and paid under book value for the is350!! I never have to bs with sales mgrs.. My brother is my saleman, and my cousin is my sales mgr at clear lake lexus.. *fukyafaceon*
08-15-11, 11:24 AM
#22
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Here's what I told Icy350 in PM regarding my car purchase. Overall, the "negotiation" lasted less than 20 minutes, although I think I got lucky by contacting the dealer before the first quarter was closing, so they could meet their quotas. The prices below reflect a 3/28/11 purchase of a 2007 IS350 with 16,800 mi. and Lux package.
1.) Found vehicle on Autotrader.com
2.) Contacted dealer. Keep an absolute max price in mind that you'll pay for the car. I'm not good at haggling, so I was simply prepared to say, "I'm willing to pay as much as $26,000 out the door. If you can do that, call me back." Luckily for me, we actually came to a price pretty quickly over the phone. The listing was for $28k, I offered $25k, he said no go, so I came back at $25.5k and said if he accepted it I would be ready to put down a down payment immediately (if you're serious about buying the vehicle, make it clear to them they have a potential sale at their fingertips). If he didn't accept, I would have told him "$26k is my offer, and if you accept it please call back. Good night."
3.) Dealer accepted, so I put down a deposit of $500 on my credit card (they didn't ask for a large deposit because they get hit with credit card fees) during the same call.
4.) That night, I ordered the inspection.
5.) Inspector returns results next evening. Everything looks good to me, so next morning I call dealer and tell him deal is on. I also applied for an auto loan via Bank of America (usually people get preapproved for an auto loan before finding a car, but I didn't want to apply for a loan until I was absolutely sure I found the car I wanted. Otherwise, too many credit inquiries reflects poorly on your credit report, and mine was good enough that I was confident I could get a loan whenever I needed to).
6.) Bank of America sends loan check. I also go to get a cashier's check for my actual down payment (much bigger than the $500 I initially put down on my card). I then send loan check and cashier's check to dealership.
7.) Wait a week for loan and cashier's checks to clear.
8.) Dealer calls and says checks cleared and car is ready for pickup.
9.) Go to http://www.transportreviews.com/ and choose a carrier. Get a quote from carrier and arrange for them to pick up the car from the dealership (note that most of these shipping companies are actually brokers and are just aggregating quotes from individual owner/operators).
10.) Took about 5 days to find a truck to pick up the car. Another 2 days for car to arrive at my driveway.
11.) Car arrives!
1.) Found vehicle on Autotrader.com
2.) Contacted dealer. Keep an absolute max price in mind that you'll pay for the car. I'm not good at haggling, so I was simply prepared to say, "I'm willing to pay as much as $26,000 out the door. If you can do that, call me back." Luckily for me, we actually came to a price pretty quickly over the phone. The listing was for $28k, I offered $25k, he said no go, so I came back at $25.5k and said if he accepted it I would be ready to put down a down payment immediately (if you're serious about buying the vehicle, make it clear to them they have a potential sale at their fingertips). If he didn't accept, I would have told him "$26k is my offer, and if you accept it please call back. Good night."
3.) Dealer accepted, so I put down a deposit of $500 on my credit card (they didn't ask for a large deposit because they get hit with credit card fees) during the same call.
4.) That night, I ordered the inspection.
5.) Inspector returns results next evening. Everything looks good to me, so next morning I call dealer and tell him deal is on. I also applied for an auto loan via Bank of America (usually people get preapproved for an auto loan before finding a car, but I didn't want to apply for a loan until I was absolutely sure I found the car I wanted. Otherwise, too many credit inquiries reflects poorly on your credit report, and mine was good enough that I was confident I could get a loan whenever I needed to).
6.) Bank of America sends loan check. I also go to get a cashier's check for my actual down payment (much bigger than the $500 I initially put down on my card). I then send loan check and cashier's check to dealership.
7.) Wait a week for loan and cashier's checks to clear.
8.) Dealer calls and says checks cleared and car is ready for pickup.
9.) Go to http://www.transportreviews.com/ and choose a carrier. Get a quote from carrier and arrange for them to pick up the car from the dealership (note that most of these shipping companies are actually brokers and are just aggregating quotes from individual owner/operators).
10.) Took about 5 days to find a truck to pick up the car. Another 2 days for car to arrive at my driveway.
11.) Car arrives!
08-15-11, 12:50 PM
#23
On the new end (2011 IS350C) -- I used TrueCar.com to get a baseline on what I could get with no haggling (invoice plus 500-1000). Then I broadened the distance and got a dealer 200 miles away to sell it at cost and their paperwork fee was half. Mentioned to one of the locals and he matched (so I saved about $750).
On the trade-in: I got a quote from autotrader.com and from carmax. When our car came in, I told them I needed a day to get rid of my car. They said to come in for an offer. Of course it was low. Showed them the 2 other offers which I was happy with (even though I could get more if I sold it, but that is always such a hassle). They said OK on the match and I went home with my new car.
Just do your homework and as much as possible before you go in. You're both better off as no one is wasting each other's time and you don't have to play the game (as much).
On the trade-in: I got a quote from autotrader.com and from carmax. When our car came in, I told them I needed a day to get rid of my car. They said to come in for an offer. Of course it was low. Showed them the 2 other offers which I was happy with (even though I could get more if I sold it, but that is always such a hassle). They said OK on the match and I went home with my new car.
Just do your homework and as much as possible before you go in. You're both better off as no one is wasting each other's time and you don't have to play the game (as much).
08-19-11, 04:04 AM
#24
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Here's what I told Icy350 in PM regarding my car purchase. Overall, the "negotiation" lasted less than 20 minutes, although I think I got lucky by contacting the dealer before the first quarter was closing, so they could meet their quotas. The prices below reflect a 3/28/11 purchase of a 2007 IS350 with 16,800 mi. and Lux package.
1.) Found vehicle on Autotrader.com
2.) Contacted dealer. Keep an absolute max price in mind that you'll pay for the car. I'm not good at haggling, so I was simply prepared to say, "I'm willing to pay as much as $26,000 out the door. If you can do that, call me back." Luckily for me, we actually came to a price pretty quickly over the phone. The listing was for $28k, I offered $25k, he said no go, so I came back at $25.5k and said if he accepted it I would be ready to put down a down payment immediately (if you're serious about buying the vehicle, make it clear to them they have a potential sale at their fingertips). If he didn't accept, I would have told him "$26k is my offer, and if you accept it please call back. Good night."
3.) Dealer accepted, so I put down a deposit of $500 on my credit card (they didn't ask for a large deposit because they get hit with credit card fees) during the same call.
4.) That night, I ordered the inspection.
5.) Inspector returns results next evening. Everything looks good to me, so next morning I call dealer and tell him deal is on. I also applied for an auto loan via Bank of America (usually people get preapproved for an auto loan before finding a car, but I didn't want to apply for a loan until I was absolutely sure I found the car I wanted. Otherwise, too many credit inquiries reflects poorly on your credit report, and mine was good enough that I was confident I could get a loan whenever I needed to).
6.) Bank of America sends loan check. I also go to get a cashier's check for my actual down payment (much bigger than the $500 I initially put down on my card). I then send loan check and cashier's check to dealership.
7.) Wait a week for loan and cashier's checks to clear.
8.) Dealer calls and says checks cleared and car is ready for pickup.
9.) Go to http://www.transportreviews.com/ and choose a carrier. Get a quote from carrier and arrange for them to pick up the car from the dealership (note that most of these shipping companies are actually brokers and are just aggregating quotes from individual owner/operators).
10.) Took about 5 days to find a truck to pick up the car. Another 2 days for car to arrive at my driveway.
11.) Car arrives!
1.) Found vehicle on Autotrader.com
2.) Contacted dealer. Keep an absolute max price in mind that you'll pay for the car. I'm not good at haggling, so I was simply prepared to say, "I'm willing to pay as much as $26,000 out the door. If you can do that, call me back." Luckily for me, we actually came to a price pretty quickly over the phone. The listing was for $28k, I offered $25k, he said no go, so I came back at $25.5k and said if he accepted it I would be ready to put down a down payment immediately (if you're serious about buying the vehicle, make it clear to them they have a potential sale at their fingertips). If he didn't accept, I would have told him "$26k is my offer, and if you accept it please call back. Good night."
3.) Dealer accepted, so I put down a deposit of $500 on my credit card (they didn't ask for a large deposit because they get hit with credit card fees) during the same call.
4.) That night, I ordered the inspection.
5.) Inspector returns results next evening. Everything looks good to me, so next morning I call dealer and tell him deal is on. I also applied for an auto loan via Bank of America (usually people get preapproved for an auto loan before finding a car, but I didn't want to apply for a loan until I was absolutely sure I found the car I wanted. Otherwise, too many credit inquiries reflects poorly on your credit report, and mine was good enough that I was confident I could get a loan whenever I needed to).
6.) Bank of America sends loan check. I also go to get a cashier's check for my actual down payment (much bigger than the $500 I initially put down on my card). I then send loan check and cashier's check to dealership.
7.) Wait a week for loan and cashier's checks to clear.
8.) Dealer calls and says checks cleared and car is ready for pickup.
9.) Go to http://www.transportreviews.com/ and choose a carrier. Get a quote from carrier and arrange for them to pick up the car from the dealership (note that most of these shipping companies are actually brokers and are just aggregating quotes from individual owner/operators).
10.) Took about 5 days to find a truck to pick up the car. Another 2 days for car to arrive at my driveway.
11.) Car arrives!
08-19-11, 10:08 AM
#25
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Location: Georgia
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I registered it myself, while not painful, wasn't something I'd like to do for fun. The dealer was in Illinois, and I don't know how Georgia is about out-of-state dealers registering cars (if it's allowed at all). The only hiccup was that the dealer never gave me temp plates, but the GA dmv rectified that so I could drive while waiting for BoA to process the title.
08-19-11, 01:30 PM
#26
On the new end (2011 IS350C) -- I used TrueCar.com to get a baseline on what I could get with no haggling (invoice plus 500-1000). Then I broadened the distance and got a dealer 200 miles away to sell it at cost and their paperwork fee was half. Mentioned to one of the locals and he matched (so I saved about $750).
On the trade-in: I got a quote from autotrader.com and from carmax. When our car came in, I told them I needed a day to get rid of my car. They said to come in for an offer. Of course it was low. Showed them the 2 other offers which I was happy with (even though I could get more if I sold it, but that is always such a hassle). They said OK on the match and I went home with my new car.
Just do your homework and as much as possible before you go in. You're both better off as no one is wasting each other's time and you don't have to play the game (as much).
On the trade-in: I got a quote from autotrader.com and from carmax. When our car came in, I told them I needed a day to get rid of my car. They said to come in for an offer. Of course it was low. Showed them the 2 other offers which I was happy with (even though I could get more if I sold it, but that is always such a hassle). They said OK on the match and I went home with my new car.
Just do your homework and as much as possible before you go in. You're both better off as no one is wasting each other's time and you don't have to play the game (as much).
08-19-11, 09:06 PM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Illinois
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I refuse to buy from a dealership. Always have bought slightly used and for cash. It's a great bargaining tool, and both parties win. 
I get a car for cheaper and the seller gets more cash than a trade in.
My Lexus buying experience was great. The previous owner had all records of service. I also checked the car out at a local dealership and Lexus online.
I get a car for cheaper and the seller gets more cash than a trade in.My Lexus buying experience was great. The previous owner had all records of service. I also checked the car out at a local dealership and Lexus online.
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