salimshah

Members:

This thread is supposed to be an index to DIYs and the exception is any DIY which is very brief [not worth having a separate thread of its own]. Comments and discussions will be deleted as the ONLY purpose of this thread is to be the launch point.

Please add Lexus part number and torques.

Salim

salimshah

Parts:
04152-YZZA1 Replaceable filter element Qty 1
90430-12031 Gasket (crush washer) Qty 1
00279-0WQTE-01 0W20 Single Quart (synthetic) Qty 7qt [ Fill: 6.4 qts with new filter, 6 qts without replacing filter]

Torque:
Drain plug 30ft-lb
Oil Filter cap 18ft-lb
Oil Filter drain 10ft-lb

Notes;
Do not use sharp tools to remove O'ring.
Lightly Lube O' ring and crush washer with fresh oil.

Salim

salimshah

Parts:
Toyo-Lex part number 9043018008 Gasket (crush washer) Qty 2 Torque 29ft-lbs
Toyota WS Fluid Single Quart Qty 4qt *

Torque:
Drain and Fill plug 29ft-lb

Steps;
Open fill plug with 10mm hex Key. Retain old gasket. [Do not open drain before opening the fill plug. If you are unable to open the filler plug, abandon the project and get help while you can drive the vehicle]
Open the drain plug with 10mm hex key.
Lightly lube fresh gasket and secure the drain plug per torque spec. 29ft-lbs
ensure the vehicle is flat. [almost will work at this time]
Fill the fluid. Use a tube and funnel or a pump. Rinse the apparatus to ensure no contamination happens. Fill till fresh fluid flows out of the filler hole.
Use the OLD gasket and snug up the fill plug [this is a temporary step].
Drive the vehicle a bit to ensure fluid temp reaches at least 41degrees F.
Make sure you are now parked on a flat surface.
Open the fill plug and add the new gasket (lightly lubed with trans fluid].
Let the excess drain out or add more fluid.
Tighten the fill plug to spec. 29ft-lbs
Wipe down the transaxle and check for leaks.

Notes:
It is important that the transaxle is not overfilled or undefiled.
Fill plug is easier to access if you remove the driver side front wheel. Lug nuts 76ft-lb

Salim

salimshah

My vehicle 2011 RX-450H

There are plenty of videos floating around and I did make use of them, but most gloss over issues. My intent is to list my experience share my difficulties and how I overcame them. Included is complete part list and important torques.

Parts:
spark plugs 9091901247 Qty 6 13ft-lb, coil-hold-down 7ft-lb
Gasket air intake 171760P021 qty 3 15ft-lb [new stock comes in orange-pink-red old was black]
Gasket TB to intake 22710P020 7ft-lb
EGR gasket 2562831010 [near driver]
EGR gasket 2562831010 long tail [i chose not to split the intermediate flange]

Vaccuum
Throttle body cleaner
You will need 1/2 cup coolant that drains out when you disconnect the EGR heat exchanger
Air intake removal:
The passenger side back bolt [towards the firewall .. take queue from the driver side which has more room] has very limited room. My 3/8 ratchet and standard socket [craftsman] were too tall to get in there. My gearwrench wrench was too flat [no offset]. Luckily I bought 1/4" ratchet and socket miniset, which was just perfect to get in there. Remove the wire tie down to create more access. [Read more about this on the installation.]

EGR Heat exchanger removal:
Note ... piping/hose has coolant in it. Make sure you isolate it from air intake and cylinder through the spark plug.
Remove flange bolts. There is a choice on the top end as it has two flanges. I opted for the farthest flange, thinking it will give me more flexibility. [Please share your experience].
Remove 3 12mm bolts of the heat exchanger mounting bracket near the firewall.
Remove two hose clamps and pull out the hoses. [I chose the end near the top flange I removed]
Lift and remove the EGR Heat exchanger. Note the raised edge of the gaskets [when installing use new gasket and mimick how the old came out].

EGR Heat exchanger Installation:
Do not tighten the fasteners till every thing is in place. Had I torqued the flanges, I would have had to get new gasket as I was obliged to remove the assembly.
If you have small hands you can install the 3 mounting bracket bolts. Well I could not get the middle one going. I took the heat exchanger assembly out remove the bracket from the heat exchanger held on by 2 12mm nuts and plastic bolts. The I tightened the mounting bracket easily. Then I tried to install the EGR exchanger and the flanges along with the plastic bolts would not align. Solution for was to loosen the routing bracket [leaving the bolts threaded ... middle one was a pain for me]. The play gave me enough maneuvering room to put the assembly back.
Tighten 3 routing bracket bolts, 2 EGR-heat-exchanger mounting bolts and 4 flange nuts 15ft-lbs.

Spark plugs + coil packs removal and installation:
The actual operation is super easy.
Loosen the bracket for air intake which is goes over plug #1. [I prefer to leave the bracket hanging and simply move it out of the way.]
When you have installed plug #1 and its coil pack, loosely hold it down by its bolt. You would need the play and adjust the angle as needed when you install the passenger side back bolt. [more on this in air intake installation.

Air intake installation:
Bracket over plug #1 reaches over and needs to align with the passenger back bolthole [mentioned in the removal section]. In my description of plug removal, I stated that do not secure down the bracket. You would need the play in the plate to align the bolt hole. Once you get the threads going, you can go back and secure the bracket down and then tighten this back bolt.

Salim
My learning ... Don't do this during hot summer months.