DIY - shock tower holes
#17
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (28)
one thing you guys should be cautious of is if you're bottoming out like that, don't forget, your oil pan is right underneath it all...don't want to damage or make a whole in the oil pan! otherwise, you guys will have more problems then just the upper control arm...just a heads up to those considering this.
#18
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (14)
I did this awhile back and my UCA still hits. Sometimes I think that the location on where I made the cutouts were off a bit. I have not looked into it since I've gotten use to the slight noise when going over a bump in the road.
One thing that I did when doing this was I applied oil a few times to the area while I was cutting the hole. Heat gets produced when cutting the hole so I did this to minimize error and make it easier when making the cut.
One thing that I did when doing this was I applied oil a few times to the area while I was cutting the hole. Heat gets produced when cutting the hole so I did this to minimize error and make it easier when making the cut.
#19
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
I2ice, thanks for this write up. Me and one of my boys did both our cars the other night. I'm on coils slammed hard on 18's, and my boy is aired. This helps tremendously. No more hitting shock towers, the ride is so much more comfortable. Oil pan is all g....... and I think my homie sits about an 1" lower now with uca purtruding through the hole we made.(that is aired out not ride height) lol..idk how you came up with the 1/4" measurement from the 10mm bolt hole, but it was spot on. We went with a 1/8" of an inch larger bit than you did just for good measures. Cheapest but most effective mod I did yet! Lol. He's got most of the pics, I'll see if he can post some up. Thanks again
#22
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Pete are u on 20's or 19's? yup your right I should have went with 235 or maybe 225 but never thought of that because everyone uses the same 245 setup. so a 225 would be thinner? I always get confused on the numbers .
rear tire is 275 30 20 .
I'll try and get picks this week. don't have access to the car at the moment.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
rear tire is 275 30 20 .
I'll try and get picks this week. don't have access to the car at the moment.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
#25
wouldn't cutting the upright on the knuckle and shortening it be a better idea?? I understand it would probably be more time consuming and expensive, but it is more proper i think. I mean it would also take the harsh angle out of the upper control arm with low drops (gain some camber back) and you wouldnt have those unsightly holes in the engine bay . i know that serialnine performs this modification but any skilled welder should be able to do it for not to much money. I understand the issue here, and i was having that same problem (which destroyed my driver side upper ball joint ). I just choose to raise the car up instead lol. I will probably go the shortening the knuckle route and post a thread about it. I'm sure you are happy to not hear that ball joint hitting the strut tower now regardless of how you did it
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