VIPDreamin

My slammed stance just recently gave me bacon fenders...oh well once i get to the paint process it will be fixed I guess. Thanks for the write up, drilling these out tonight.

vipXjunky

iTrader: (28)

one thing you guys should be cautious of is if you're bottoming out like that, don't forget, your oil pan is right underneath it all...don't want to damage or make a whole in the oil pan! otherwise, you guys will have more problems then just the upper control arm...just a heads up to those considering this.

MrG4Life

iTrader: (14)

I did this awhile back and my UCA still hits. Sometimes I think that the location on where I made the cutouts were off a bit. I have not looked into it since I've gotten use to the slight noise when going over a bump in the road.

One thing that I did when doing this was I applied oil a few times to the area while I was cutting the hole. Heat gets produced when cutting the hole so I did this to minimize error and make it easier when making the cut.

Riksgs808

iTrader: (2)

I2ice, thanks for this write up. Me and one of my boys did both our cars the other night. I'm on coils slammed hard on 18's, and my boy is aired. This helps tremendously. No more hitting shock towers, the ride is so much more comfortable. Oil pan is all g....... and I think my homie sits about an 1" lower now with uca purtruding through the hole we made.(that is aired out not ride height) lol..idk how you came up with the 1/4" measurement from the 10mm bolt hole, but it was spot on. We went with a 1/8" of an inch larger bit than you did just for good measures. Cheapest but most effective mod I did yet! Lol. He's got most of the pics, I'll see if he can post some up. Thanks again

i2ice

iTrader: (2)

glad I can help. i just kept looking at the shock towers and eye balled the 1/4" haha

Riksgs808

iTrader: (2)

Hahaha, nice geustamation. Since I did the hole cuts, I've switched over to air now. I do hit the uca every now and then when I'm ridingl low. But that's only when I hit a major dip in the road. Other than that ride is still sweet.

sinistervr

iTrader: (1)

on a 275/30 the front match would be a 235/35. they have the same amount of side wall. a 225/35 would be the next closest. me personally i ran 225/35 on a 9.5 and a 245/30 on a 10 when i had my old wheels

4doorscore

Great dyi, glad I stumbled across this just now..

1sWt2GS

iTrader: (6)

have this problem all the time. just got used to the banging

Chankeye

wouldn't cutting the upright on the knuckle and shortening it be a better idea?? I understand it would probably be more time consuming and expensive, but it is more proper i think. I mean it would also take the harsh angle out of the upper control arm with low drops (gain some camber back) and you wouldnt have those unsightly holes in the engine bay . i know that serialnine performs this modification but any skilled welder should be able to do it for not to much money. I understand the issue here, and i was having that same problem (which destroyed my driver side upper ball joint ). I just choose to raise the car up instead lol. I will probably go the shortening the knuckle route and post a thread about it. I'm sure you are happy to not hear that ball joint hitting the strut tower now regardless of how you did it

PHML

iTrader: (33)

Nice work...but where are the side profile pics...before and after drilling the shock towers?