getting a GS300, what should I look for?
06-26-12, 07:15 PM
#1
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getting a GS300, what should I look for?
On sunday I'm getting a 2001 GS300 with 127k miles
Im new to this car and I heard really great things and that they last forever, But what should i look for to make sure i'm getting a good car?
Im new to this car and I heard really great things and that they last forever, But what should i look for to make sure i'm getting a good car?
06-26-12, 07:18 PM
#2
just look for generic things such as the major tune up was done, aka timing belt, etc.
cars are notorious for ball joints failing, and door lock actuators, so make sure all doors lock and keep in mind ball joints may need to be changed
do some searching on the thread, every car has their share of problems, fortunately the GS has fewer than most
cars are notorious for ball joints failing, and door lock actuators, so make sure all doors lock and keep in mind ball joints may need to be changed
do some searching on the thread, every car has their share of problems, fortunately the GS has fewer than most
06-26-12, 07:47 PM
#3
You can get the VIN ahead of time and make an account on the Lexus Owners website and it will tell you all the maintenance done to that vehicle at the dealer, give you a bit more piece of mind, and a better idea of the service record if it was done at a dealer.
But yea, door lock actuators, ball joints, are the two big problem areas.
But yea, door lock actuators, ball joints, are the two big problem areas.
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06-28-12, 03:30 PM
#8
Just go for a test drive and make sure you like how it drives, take some turns, wiggle the steering wheel like in a swerve/slalom manuever to see if you like how it drives. Try the brakes.
Make sure you have the color you like.
Even if a car has some issues, that's to be expected, and most are repairable.
I don't see why people are saying to check stuff like if balljoints are replaced. Yes it's important thing to do, but it's not costly. That's what to do after you own the car. If they aren't replaced you then just go and replace them. It's not a factor you consider when Buying the car
It's not like the engine fell out or body is full of rust, or dinged up.
Make sure you have the color you like.
Even if a car has some issues, that's to be expected, and most are repairable.
I don't see why people are saying to check stuff like if balljoints are replaced. Yes it's important thing to do, but it's not costly. That's what to do after you own the car. If they aren't replaced you then just go and replace them. It's not a factor you consider when Buying the car
It's not like the engine fell out or body is full of rust, or dinged up.
Last edited by raytseng; 06-28-12 at 03:33 PM.
06-29-12, 11:33 AM
#11
Bringing this back, one thing that maybe impossible to get rid of is wheel shake at 65-70mph.
Yes, the general automotive theory is you solve this frontwheel balance. But in this car at this age, the suspension parts are worn out, and designed such that the freeplay in the suspension is causing the shake, and not overly unbalanced wheels.
If you find other threads, you find people spending lots of money trying to get rid of the shake, and sometimes unsuccessfully.
So be sure to try highway driving and look for freeplay/deadarea within the steering wheel, or steering shake around 65-70mph. If you are ok with the behavior that's fine, but if you got shake be advised it *might* not be cheaply solved with just new tires/wheelbalance.
(also check brakes at highway speeds, and see if that causes more shake too).
I'll go back and say the other maintenance issues are nice things to know about so you can go do them and agree that it is a negotiation point on price. But, it shouldn't be a factor on if the car is bad or good.
I'd take an car with cleaner body and unreplaced balljoints over a dinged up body where the owner said he replaced the balljoints.
Yes, the general automotive theory is you solve this frontwheel balance. But in this car at this age, the suspension parts are worn out, and designed such that the freeplay in the suspension is causing the shake, and not overly unbalanced wheels.
If you find other threads, you find people spending lots of money trying to get rid of the shake, and sometimes unsuccessfully.
So be sure to try highway driving and look for freeplay/deadarea within the steering wheel, or steering shake around 65-70mph. If you are ok with the behavior that's fine, but if you got shake be advised it *might* not be cheaply solved with just new tires/wheelbalance.
(also check brakes at highway speeds, and see if that causes more shake too).
I'll go back and say the other maintenance issues are nice things to know about so you can go do them and agree that it is a negotiation point on price. But, it shouldn't be a factor on if the car is bad or good.
I'd take an car with cleaner body and unreplaced balljoints over a dinged up body where the owner said he replaced the balljoints.
06-29-12, 04:10 PM
#12
The steering wheel shimmy is a solvable problem, but yes, sometimes the play in the various suspension parts does compound destructively and it's difficult to identify one culprit.
Steering wheel shimmy on the highway is a common problem with these cars.
Steering wheel shimmy on the highway is a common problem with these cars.
06-29-12, 04:22 PM
#13
Not just difficult, but prohibitively expensive that should be a decision factor to buy or not buy the car.
As compared to timing belt/balljoints or other maintenance that you just need to get done as part of the normal cost of ownership.
As compared to timing belt/balljoints or other maintenance that you just need to get done as part of the normal cost of ownership.
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