Advice on ES300 valve cover gasket repair
#1
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Advice on ES300 valve cover gasket repair
Hey guys,
I just bought a 2002 Lexus ES300 (1mz fe 3.0L vvti), which was weeping a bit from the front valve cover. It's not a major leak, but since I'd also like to check for sludge (I'm a bit paranoid about this as I can see some smoke from the exhaust when I start the vehicle), I'm going to get a new gasket. It's got 60,000 miles on the odo, so in two or three years I'll be changing the timing belt (I thought I'd do all the other gaskets/seals then). I think everything else will hold up for a couple of years, so could I just leave everything else as is right now and do just the one gasket? Or is this one of those repairs that will make something else leak?
What if I just open the cover to check for sludge, and not even get a new gasket, but just tighten the bolts a bit more (being careful that they don't break, of course)? Any advice?
I just bought a 2002 Lexus ES300 (1mz fe 3.0L vvti), which was weeping a bit from the front valve cover. It's not a major leak, but since I'd also like to check for sludge (I'm a bit paranoid about this as I can see some smoke from the exhaust when I start the vehicle), I'm going to get a new gasket. It's got 60,000 miles on the odo, so in two or three years I'll be changing the timing belt (I thought I'd do all the other gaskets/seals then). I think everything else will hold up for a couple of years, so could I just leave everything else as is right now and do just the one gasket? Or is this one of those repairs that will make something else leak?
What if I just open the cover to check for sludge, and not even get a new gasket, but just tighten the bolts a bit more (being careful that they don't break, of course)? Any advice?
#2
If you take off the valve cover you will need a new casket (make that gasket) LOL. It will be brittle after 13 years.
You do realize there is a time component to the recommendation on changing the timing belt. I think it is 7 years. Based on that you are well overdue for a timing belt change.
That being said, if it were me, because the left (front) valve cover gasket is easy to change, I'd change it and call it good. Off course if your timing belt broke, you'd be stuck somewhere where you'd rather not be stuck.
I'm surprised the right (rear) cover is not leaking. I bet it is. Go to the passenger side of the engine compartment and stick your hand behind the right (rear) valve cover. I'll bet your hand comes back with oil on it.
You do realize there is a time component to the recommendation on changing the timing belt. I think it is 7 years. Based on that you are well overdue for a timing belt change.
That being said, if it were me, because the left (front) valve cover gasket is easy to change, I'd change it and call it good. Off course if your timing belt broke, you'd be stuck somewhere where you'd rather not be stuck.
I'm surprised the right (rear) cover is not leaking. I bet it is. Go to the passenger side of the engine compartment and stick your hand behind the right (rear) valve cover. I'll bet your hand comes back with oil on it.
Last edited by tomf; 02-20-15 at 02:59 PM.
#3
Pole Position
The 2002 had some minor breathing mods to decrease condensation and sludge formation. The real issue is if oil changes were done on reasonable intervals, there's no real worry to be paranoid about sludge.
I would switch it to Mobil 1 5w-30 or Pennzoil Platinum same weight. Let that clean up the engine as you drive it. I would also not bother with the gasket. A light weep and stain around the head are not unusual. Ours does that and at 233k miles burns no oil between changes (7.5k intervals, too, with M1 HM).
I also would not change the timing belt. They do have a recommended time, but the fact is that unless bathed in oil or some unusual condition, they don't degrade. I have seen belts fail because of excess mileage, but not time. Nor have I ever heard of one fail because of time and not mileage. I HAVE seen several belts fail because of poor mechanical practices in replacing them - not changing the tensioner or pulley, etc. If I had a 60k factory installed belt, I'd run it to 90k instead of prematurely introducing repair uncertainty into the equation.
I would switch it to Mobil 1 5w-30 or Pennzoil Platinum same weight. Let that clean up the engine as you drive it. I would also not bother with the gasket. A light weep and stain around the head are not unusual. Ours does that and at 233k miles burns no oil between changes (7.5k intervals, too, with M1 HM).
I also would not change the timing belt. They do have a recommended time, but the fact is that unless bathed in oil or some unusual condition, they don't degrade. I have seen belts fail because of excess mileage, but not time. Nor have I ever heard of one fail because of time and not mileage. I HAVE seen several belts fail because of poor mechanical practices in replacing them - not changing the tensioner or pulley, etc. If I had a 60k factory installed belt, I'd run it to 90k instead of prematurely introducing repair uncertainty into the equation.
#4
Lexus Champion
If its not weeping badly and isn't leaking on your exhaust causing fumes then I'd leave it.
If you really are skeptical about the car's past and want to check for sludge, you can change just that front cover gasket, its very easy to do. Just follow the latter part of the DIY and video here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...placement.html
The timing belt and cam seal job does not have to be done at the same time as the valve cover gaskets. The only advantage to having it done is being able to hold the camshafts with a wrench with the covers off while removing the cam gears, as opposed to using a cam pulley holder tool.
If you really are skeptical about the car's past and want to check for sludge, you can change just that front cover gasket, its very easy to do. Just follow the latter part of the DIY and video here:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...placement.html
The timing belt and cam seal job does not have to be done at the same time as the valve cover gaskets. The only advantage to having it done is being able to hold the camshafts with a wrench with the covers off while removing the cam gears, as opposed to using a cam pulley holder tool.
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