Check engine and trac off light on at same time, have error codes!
#16
Why did you clean the MAF ? Did you ever get a code for the MAF ?
Check to make sure the intake hoses are free of any cracks.
I think I would switch some of the coils -- move some of the easy ones from one bank to the other .......and see what happens.
Check to make sure the intake hoses are free of any cracks.
I think I would switch some of the coils -- move some of the easy ones from one bank to the other .......and see what happens.
#17
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LATEST UPDATE: I checked for any vacuum hose leaks, nothing visible. I checked 4 of the 6 ignition coils. I noticed that on the front 3 cylinders I have 2 coils that are part # 2234, the other one is part # 9016. Not sure if that makes a difference - ?
I also noticed that the first back coil to the left has a very fine hairline crack going down the shaft. It covers about 2/4 of the coil. What is the impact of that?
I also found this on the web: http://autorepair.about.com/od/troub...est-manual.htm - any thoughts? Would this be a good way to test for any misfires? I am surprised that the Lexus shop did not suggest this, but I assume that does not fall under their free diagnosis.
I also noticed that the first back coil to the left has a very fine hairline crack going down the shaft. It covers about 2/4 of the coil. What is the impact of that?
I also found this on the web: http://autorepair.about.com/od/troub...est-manual.htm - any thoughts? Would this be a good way to test for any misfires? I am surprised that the Lexus shop did not suggest this, but I assume that does not fall under their free diagnosis.
#18
I was always told that testing a coil that way was not recommend because the spark could jump from the plug if you don't have a good ground and damage the coil.
Also -- a bad coil could still spark -- it may just be weak and you won't be able to tell the difference.
I would replace the coil -- this is a common way they fail. Voltage leaks out through the crack and you get a weak spark - especially if damp
Also -- a bad coil could still spark -- it may just be weak and you won't be able to tell the difference.
I would replace the coil -- this is a common way they fail. Voltage leaks out through the crack and you get a weak spark - especially if damp
#19
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Thread Starter
MY SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM:
OK, here is what worked for me:
I swapped the 3 front ignition coils with the back one's. I noticed that the center coil in the back (#3) was an aftermarket coil which I then placed in the center front (#4). Drove the car, the check engine and trac off lights came on again after 2 minutes. I went to a Lexus shop, they read out the codes ($60 - I think worth it since it could have been the camshaft sensor or something more serious upstream of the cylinders), this time I had error codes P1300-P1325 plus P0304. That is the new position of the aftermarket coil.
I ordered a DENSO Aftermarket coil on EBay, the shipped me their own house brand, which I will return since it cost $47 (if I wanted aftermarket I could have gotten those for $20/piece.) I found a seller on EBay who sells the OEM DENSO coils for for $50, ordered one of those, will send the other one back. Have been driving 4 days now, no check engine light/trac off lights.
Thanks for all the input!!! No unfortunately on to the newest problem I discovered today, sticking odometer needle in the instrument cluster.
OK, here is what worked for me:
I swapped the 3 front ignition coils with the back one's. I noticed that the center coil in the back (#3) was an aftermarket coil which I then placed in the center front (#4). Drove the car, the check engine and trac off lights came on again after 2 minutes. I went to a Lexus shop, they read out the codes ($60 - I think worth it since it could have been the camshaft sensor or something more serious upstream of the cylinders), this time I had error codes P1300-P1325 plus P0304. That is the new position of the aftermarket coil.
I ordered a DENSO Aftermarket coil on EBay, the shipped me their own house brand, which I will return since it cost $47 (if I wanted aftermarket I could have gotten those for $20/piece.) I found a seller on EBay who sells the OEM DENSO coils for for $50, ordered one of those, will send the other one back. Have been driving 4 days now, no check engine light/trac off lights.
Thanks for all the input!!! No unfortunately on to the newest problem I discovered today, sticking odometer needle in the instrument cluster.
#20
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Found this old thread, it's just what I'm experiencing w/ my 2001 w/ 113k on it. I can verify that the TC is OFF as the light indicates, as this happened to me a few times last week, of course just after snowstorms. The first one was only 3-4 ", so it wasn't too bad, but definitely slow to get going, especially on an incline (all weather tires).
The 2nd time later in the week was w/ 6" or so...and it was a lot tougher going.
So I will ask my mechanic to look into this, but any other ideas welcome. It basically happens every few days for me, pretty annoying.
The 2nd time later in the week was w/ 6" or so...and it was a lot tougher going.
So I will ask my mechanic to look into this, but any other ideas welcome. It basically happens every few days for me, pretty annoying.
#21
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This is persisting, I'm about to take it in to my mechanic for service. I was chatting w/ him the other day and mentioned the coil issue that had been posted here; he was skeptical.
Any new input on this?
Any new input on this?
#22
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Same as my problem?
Hi, have you had the codes checked yet? That would be the first step I would do. You mention that you have the same problem but then again you mention that you will have a mechanic check it out. What exactly do you know so far?
It took 4-5 times for the lights to come out to get the proper P0304 code which specified the eaxct location of the bad coil. Until then I only got the generic codes.
It took 4-5 times for the lights to come out to get the proper P0304 code which specified the eaxct location of the bad coil. Until then I only got the generic codes.
#23
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Hi, I finally had it serviced last week. Codes were P1130/P1135....tech said it was the front air/fuel ratio sensor...needed two new A/F ratio sensors. Replaced both, about $1,000 for the job. They had torch out a frozen sensor & had to re-tap the threads.
After a week, so far so good.
After a week, so far so good.
#24
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Help ! I have a 2000 lexus es 300. The traction control light and engine light are on. I have paid 300 already and the lights came back on. The mechanics wanted to charge me again to put it back on machine to see what is wrong. I didnt think that was fair since they had not fixed the problem and didnt seem to know what it is anyway. I have now taking it to a place that special in lexus cars. They said 5 codes came up. He wanted me to drive it for two more weeks and then come back and he would recheck it. He said it was sensors .. An air mass one (had that replaced) and a nockern or something and he said that would be 700 for the two. Im a girl and i have zero idea what to do . I cannot keep paying when the problem still exist. Then tonight i get home and the battery and oil light came on. What next??? Any ideas is it time to trade it in . Hope not its paid for. Pcb1968
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