newbie Subwoofer help
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newbie Subwoofer help
Hey guys I was wondering if anyone could help me with my subwoofer install. I'm planning on installing 2 10" pioneer subs that I won (score) but anyway I am a total noob to both cars and sound systems but I'm learning. I have an 00 es300 with the stock premium sound system that sounds great but I wanna bump more lows. My question is can I install the two subs and an amp and keep the stock amp and sub working? And if not what are my other options? Thanks in advance
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It's possible to hook it up to the stock amp with a line-out converter, but I'm not sure if you can keep the stock sub, because the loc requires you to splice into the sub output in the trunk.
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Stock sub won't do you anything good bypass it for SURE. Start looking into a Sub box thats gonna fit your taste in sound (sealed, ported) and match them to the subs. make sure its gonna fit, and look into a good quality amp 2 channel or mono. But theres still more details your gonna wanna research on all this. ALOT more
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I've already looked into boxes i'm stuck between potted and sealed, but I should bypass the stock amp and sub and just leave them there? I know messing with the physical sub messes up the rear brake light in the center. Also personal opinion, build boxes or buy?, I don't have a jigsaw, but I can get pretty handy.
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If you're going to use the stock deck, you will still need the stock amp; no need to bypass it.
You can use a line-out converter with the sub output in the trunk (cut the wires to the stock sub) and then connect that to your aftermarket amp.
You can keep the stock sub in there to use the bracket for the rear brake light, but I removed mine and it stays in place fine, even with my sub rattling the rear deck.
You can use a line-out converter with the sub output in the trunk (cut the wires to the stock sub) and then connect that to your aftermarket amp.
You can keep the stock sub in there to use the bracket for the rear brake light, but I removed mine and it stays in place fine, even with my sub rattling the rear deck.
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Okay thanks for all the help I'll put up pics once I get it all done, although it'll probably be a while. One more question, I'm stumped on where to put my amp, because I have to use the ski shoot and the middle of the trunk, so i'm splitting the subs one on the left one on the right, should I just mount the amp on the roof of the trunk?
#7
Here's the line out converter I bought:http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?14&pid=212 It's the NE-7V. Remove your stock sub to create a "hole" for the lows to enter the cabin (and keep the grill). Connect the LOC from the stock sub speaker wires to your amp. Run 4 gauge power from the battery (with an in-line fuse close to the battery) to your amp and ground the amp with 4 gauge in the trunk. You'll also need to run a remote turn-on wire from the amp to the stock radio or a fuse that turns on/off with the ignition. I'm going to do mine to the stock head unit so that if I turn the head unit off the amp shuts off too. What amp are you going to run? The manual for the amp will tell you what size in-line fuse to put close to the battery. My amp requires a 50amp fuse. Depending on the current draw of the amp you'll want to upgrade your battery/add a capacitor to prevent your lights from dimming when the bass notes hit. I've got an Alumipro 5 farad capacitor in my closet so I'm going to use that, but I'll probably also upgrade my battery to a Yellow Top. I'll just be running a JL 500/1 amp with a JL 10W7 sub in a JL Prowedge (sealed) enclosure. Hope this helps.....
Martin
P.S. The trunk roof is not ideal for the amp location.
Martin
P.S. The trunk roof is not ideal for the amp location.
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Here's the line out converter I bought:http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?14&pid=212 It's the NE-7V. Remove your stock sub to create a "hole" for the lows to enter the cabin (and keep the grill). Connect the LOC from the stock sub speaker wires to your amp. Run 4 gauge power from the battery (with an in-line fuse close to the battery) to your amp and ground the amp with 4 gauge in the trunk. You'll also need to run a remote turn-on wire from the amp to the stock radio or a fuse that turns on/off with the ignition. I'm going to do mine to the stock head unit so that if I turn the head unit off the amp shuts off too. What amp are you going to run? The manual for the amp will tell you what size in-line fuse to put close to the battery. My amp requires a 50amp fuse. Depending on the current draw of the amp you'll want to upgrade your battery/add a capacitor to prevent your lights from dimming when the bass notes hit. I've got an Alumipro 5 farad capacitor in my closet so I'm going to use that, but I'll probably also upgrade my battery to a Yellow Top. I'll just be running a JL 500/1 amp with a JL 10W7 sub in a JL Prowedge (sealed) enclosure. Hope this helps.....
Martin
P.S. The trunk roof is not ideal for the amp location.
Martin
P.S. The trunk roof is not ideal for the amp location.
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hey new question. imconsidering getting a new head unit, since it makes a big difference in sound, and its usually the first step in the sound upgrade, im thinking a pioneer cd player, any install insight? oh and what happens withthe 6 disk changer?
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NEW HU would definitely be worth it, More sound control, pre-amp outputs, and mp3 ipod capability. You'll need the correct harness to use factory amp. Forget stock disc changer won't be compatible
#14
Sub enclosure - sealed for SQ, ported for more dB
Head Unit - Won't be worth it without upgrading component speakers in my opinion - if you upgrade head unit and components you'll definitely want to buy an aftermarket amp as well - if you go that route you'll need an upgraded battery and alternator or a capacitor...
1) Get an upgraded alternator and Yellow Top battery
2) Dynamat the F___ out of the doors and trunk
3) Upgrade the HU, components, and amp
4) Have the best guy around do the install-the install is more important than the actual components.
Just kidding...BUT - once you start upgrading and you like it there's a good chance you'll end up doing what I've described. Car Audio is VERY addictive!
best of luck,
Martin
Head Unit - Won't be worth it without upgrading component speakers in my opinion - if you upgrade head unit and components you'll definitely want to buy an aftermarket amp as well - if you go that route you'll need an upgraded battery and alternator or a capacitor...
1) Get an upgraded alternator and Yellow Top battery
2) Dynamat the F___ out of the doors and trunk
3) Upgrade the HU, components, and amp
4) Have the best guy around do the install-the install is more important than the actual components.
Just kidding...BUT - once you start upgrading and you like it there's a good chance you'll end up doing what I've described. Car Audio is VERY addictive!
best of luck,
Martin
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