djdrew44

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone had experience in tapping into the sub wiring on the rear deck on a '15 ES non ML. The only part exposed in the trunk are the leads that go directly to the voice coil. I could solder to those tabs, but I'd rather tap off the insulated wiring.

Thanks!

sessionstu

From what I've read, most of us have tapped into the speaker wire that connects to the factory amplifier under the driver's seat. If you're looking to use a line output converter (LC2i) I'd recommend tapping into the rear speaker wire instead of the sub woofer channel. That way you'll get the full signal. The LC2i will handle the crossover part. If you connect an aftermarket sub woofer to the factory amplifier you're not going to hear much of a difference. You're going to need some additional power as well. There are lots of write-ups on the IS forums.

djdrew44

Great info. Thanks. I'm going to use a powered sub with a speaker level input. Do you know where I can get the wiring color codes for the factory amp or direct me to a post? Thanks again!

MrlexEd88

I went ahead and heated the factory Solder on the coil connections pins, I'm not a fan of slicing wires in the middle.

MrlexEd88

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-6th-gen-2013-present/782891-anyone-added-a-new-subwoofer.html

sessionstu

The yellow highlighted connections are the ones I used. Pages 6 & 7. Good luck.

sessionstu

I put a JL Audio HO110-W6v3 ported wedge box in the trunk. Powered it with an Alpine MRV-M500 amp. 500 watts at 2 ohms is more than enough. And it's priced below $200 dollars. Nice amp. And of course the AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Converter and Sub woofer Control unit. Everything but the sub box went on top of the hybrid battery pack in the trunk of the car. Keeps everything hidden. The accessory battery for the 300h is in the trunk so I didn't have to run a power cable to the rear of the car. I wouldn't rely on the signal sensing turn on feature of the LC2i though. It didn't work for me. I tapped into the power adapter in between the rear seats. It was a pain to run the wire. I had to pull up some of carpeting and then use a coat hanger to feed the wire around the frame. Lost a little skin in the process. The end result of having a functioning sub woofer is terrific. The sound is so much better. It makes the overall sound of the stock factory (non-ML) stereo sound amazingly good.

djdrew44

You guys are awesome! Thanks!

I'm still up in the air whether I want to tap into the amp wiring or solder off the sub.

When using the amp wiring as you highlighted, is it line level or speaker level signal? I'm assuming those are the L & R connections coming from the dash.

Thanks again. I will post my results when I get started.

sessionstu

Lexus uses a bus between the head unit and the factory amplifier. So if you tap into the amp you're tapping into amplified speaker wire. No big deal. Not sure what the rating is on a factory amp, but it can't be much. 35 watts. If that. If you tap into the sub wiring you're not going to get the full signal. It's crossed over. It will be around 120Hz and lower. I read that some people did it and it sounded good.

djdrew44

Got it, will keep you posted on the outcome.

Thanks again.

-Andrew

djdrew44

Finally got around to tackling this project. Here are the results: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...ll-w-pics.html

Thanks again for your help!