hey guys, i own an IS 250 and i want to add a subwoofer to the factory system, i was wondering do i have to run the line converter from the factory amp, or can i use the wiring directly from the factory sub itself??

 

doesn't matter in our cars. the input into the factory non-ML amp is only two wires and this not suitable for getting signal from for a LOC. IMO it is best to get signal from the trunk sub....the one mounted to the rear deck. it doesn't matter where you splice into it at, whatever is cleaner and convenient for you and your skill set as long as it is that sub. mainly because the "sub" in the doors has a higher Hz than the trunk sub. It is also Dual Voice Coiled so take the "left" wires on your LOC and place them on one coil's positive and negative respectively and the "right" wires to the other side of the voice coil.

I know others may disagree but for this specific car it is the correct choice. each car is different.

let me know if you have questions.

Cheers.

 

Ok thanks a lot for the info, I guess I'll give it a try and see what happens

 

Being a DVC woofer, it won't matter which VC wires you splice into. I have done this, prior to changing my HU and found that it didn't matter which you tap. Be sure you take the amplifier's output wires for your LOC though. Also worth mentioning, when you add the amp and sub in the trunk, you should remove the factory subwoofer from the rear deck. This will give you a nice pass through which will make your aftermarket sub more audible.

 

ok cool ill keep that in mind, thanks for the advice slammer1

 

Your wire colors for the sub coming out of the amp are as follows:

Voice coil 1:
Brown (+)
Light Green (-)

Voice coil 2:
Pink or Light Blue (+)
Light Blue or Red (-)

Not sure why the schematic shows a choice of colors for the second coil and don't remember which I tapped when I did the LOC a long time ago. I would just splice the first coil to be safe. The fist coil's output wiring is in connector "P28", which is a 10 wire connector. "P29" is also a 10 wire connector at the amp, but from what I see, it doesn't have a yellow or a light green wire. The 10 wire connector with either of these two colors should be "P28" and you will want to tap the brown and light green wires in it.

 

slammer - two different colors for two different wires depending on the schematic you have. I have non-ML and tested/verified every wire at that amplifier in the trunk. I have extensively ripped apart my trunk amp and wiring of the majority of the car and know my stuff. it is best practice to hook up the left side of the line output converter to one voice coil and the right side to the second coil. The factory sub should be removed but isn't the worst if not. I have tried it both ways and there are many debates on here about that topic. Also, the signal coming out of the factory sub is not mono so it would be slightly beneficial to hook up both sides of the line output converter as stated above.