Fjoelli

So the craziest thing happened! I was going back and forth between ordering a non nav system and yhen install a aftermarket double din mp5 screen, and just living with the limited functionality of a broken touch screen so I decided to put the stock navigation system back in while I figured it out .I got everything put back together and installed and I turned the car on and for the first time ever since I bought the car the screen responded to my touch! I was shocked. I said a prayer and turned the car off and back on and it still worked! Now I don't want to jinx it but it's been working since then .I don't know if I hooked something up differently or what but I'm so happy!

i also cut the speed and parking brake wires and now the system doesn't lock me out when I'm moving. This is the best outcome I could have asked for . thanks to you all for the help and good luck with your projects

mkubo

OP... Do you happen to know the part number for the E3 connector? Should be on the connector, but not sure you even looked for it. If you know it, can you post it please? Thanks!

bucfan22

Hi
i know this is 2 year ago, hopefully you still here. I am swap out my head unit with a chinese Atoto 6 pro, and quite happy with what this thing can do compare to the more expensive brand name on crutchfield. However i run into problem with steering wheel control especially the DISP button. I read and read but could not get straight answer to my concern and hope you can help.
As of now i think most people said needed accessory is EITHER exxess-1 or PAC SWI-RC. Some even said Not need if you can solder the wires from Atoto unit to the harness.
Would love your input. anyway i have a 2008 es350 non Nav system so mostly straight forward swap except for the steering wheel
thanks

Goldwisp

Did you figure out the fix for the display button not working?

The ES I purchased already had a Frankenstein radio setup. I've corrected everything but can't figure out why the display button for the steering wheel will not work.

Thanks!

meyst

So, the steering wheel controls are just a simple resistive ladder setup. (If you are unsure of what this is, check Wikipedia for "resistor ladder") Basically, this is a simple electrical circuit that only exposes 2 wires and each button on the steering wheel closes the circuit and each button uses a different resistive value. This allows for each button to be uniquely identified by a different resistive value which changes the voltage presented by the 2 wires. Simple but effective. The piece of equipment (i.e. the radio) that is connected to the 2 wires has to be smart enough to interpret the different voltage values.
You can check that the steering wheel circuit is working by using a volt-meter (or ohm-meter) across the 2 wires and pressing the steering wheel buttons. If you are getting different values for each button press, then the steering wheel circuit is working properly and the problem is which the radio's interpretation of the signal.
Some aftermarket radios are "smart" enough to do all this interpretation on their own (e.g. a lot of the Android-based head-units). The more traditional radios units (e.g. Kenwood, Pioneer, etc) require an aftermarket box to do this for them (i.e. steering wheel interface) such as the Metra Axxess ASWC-1. (I've actually since install this for my Kenwood unit).
Best of luck!!

Goldwisp

Thanks Meyst! Do you know which wires from the factory harness I need to be tapping into?
The stereo that I purchased does have the SWC built in with the wiring harness, but I'm not sure which wires off the factory harness need to be utilized.

meyst

I can't recommend Toyota Information System (TIS) highly enough (https://techinfo.toyota.com/). For $15 a day, you can access all of the tech manuals for Toyota/Lexus. I downloaded all of their wiring diagrams and such. $15 is not bad for this level of detailed information. I was able to figure out all the wiring harnesses and wire-colors for everything. I rewired the "deluxe" Lexus infotainment center and replaced it with the entry-level so that I could replace the manufacturer system with an non-Toyota system.
To directly answer your questions, you are looking for pins 6 (black - ground), 7 (orange), and 8 (purple) on the E69 or E70 connector. It's hard to describe without seeing the wiring diagrams. Both E69/E70 are 20-pin connectors. (Your vehicle will use one or the other, they are basically the same, just depends on your vehicle. Pins 1,11 and 10,20 will be different in physical shape, but the coloring and placement of the wires is the same) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...f=true&sd=true

If you decide to subscribe to TIS, you can access and screen-capture as much as you want in the given time period. I can't recall if it's 1 day or 2 days for $15. Either way, it's worth it. Capture everything you can and save it for later!

Arman12345

Hi Meyst, looks like you have done a solid job on your Lexus.
I have the same car but 2010 (with navigation). Since my radio got some troubles I am going to do the same thing that you have done. I need your help to tell me if these parts are needed for this installation.





and I am not sure if this wires are needed or not


and of course, an aftermarket stereo unit(6.8 or 7 inches)

​​​​​​I'm going to have someone to install it since I don't want make a trouble. To make it more simple, I would be appreciate it if you could tell me things that are needed to know in the installation process. Specially about the connection of manual climate control from the factory harness that is made for the nav stereo. Thanks again.

Arman

Arman12345

I've purchased the parts and I am going to install it on Friday. If anyone has any experience or know a trick that can help me during this installation please let me know.I know this post is for long time ago and many of you probably are not looking at this page anymore.

meyst

Arman,
Of the parts that you displayed in your earlier posts, you definitely need the "TEmperature Climate Control Without Navigation" and the Metra Double-DIN dash kit.
The rest of the parts depends on whether or not you intend to upgrade the amplifier. The OEM amp is located in the trunk, right side, behind the carpeting.
I highly recommend upgrading the amp. From my experience, I could never get good sound quality when using the factory amp and I'm sure it's because the OEM radio and maybe the amp were applying some DSP. Just a word of caution, if you put your new amp in the same place, that means you will need around 22 ft of RCA cable. That introduces a lot of noise (alternator buzz/whine), especially when using low-voltage pre-amp outputs on the head unit. All of the Android-based units seem to use 2V pre-outs and that's bad. I've since upgraded to a Kenwood head-unit that have 5V pre-outs and that finally fixed the noise problem. You will also need to run heavy gauge power wire to the trunk -- about 25 ft or more, so you should definitely use 4 AWG or lower. If I was doing this project again, I would also run an identical ground wire instead of grounding locally in the trunk. This would eliminate ground-loop-noise (alternator whine) and probably allow you to get away with low-voltage pre-outs on the head unit.
As far as the wiring harnesses go.... that's pretty much up to you. As I recall, I ended up buying 2 or 3 generic 12-pin male/female quick disconnects (search Amazon for "B006ZPEZ64") to interface the radio unit into the car.
Please beware that this whole project (replacing the Lexus radio and amp with aftermarket) is a HUGE undertaking. I think I probably ended up re-wiring about a 10 wiring harnesses and cutting/splicing around 100 wires. Also, pretty much once you start down this path, you have no choice but to finish. Whomever does the work needs to be very familiar with reading Toyota wiring diagrams and understand how to interpret wiring harness IDs and such.

Arman12345

First, thank you so much Meist for your response after quite long time of when you made this discussion post. So I have my installaion appointment at the stereo shop for this friday and I am kinda excited, I just hope everything goes smoothly and I come back with my new stereo. So far, I have purchased all the items below, and there is one thing that will arrive tomorrow, but I am not sure if that will be helpful or not.




One thing that I have no clue about is wiring the new manual climate control, which consists of a clock and climate control panel. I don’t know do I need to have a new 18-pin plug in order to work or if the plug is ready to disconnect from the old panel and use to the new one or … etc.


And those tips that you have said will be very helpful. I’m thinking about installing the new amp underneath the passenger seat just to make it less noisy and use less cord at the same time.
Overall, I think I have pretty much everything I need for this project and I hope to get a good result. I will post the result!

Beaubatte

So, how all this turned out? Was the guy at the stereo shop afraid to do the swap?

Oh and Meyst, I wanna do the same wonderful job. If I understand, from your excel doc (post #22), I have to solder together the same filing colors?

meyst

Basically, yes. The pins for each connector are shown below each one and show where to make the connection. For example, E3-pin1 goes to E62-pin1. The yellow/green colors just make it a little easier to identify which connector wire is connecting to what.

I have a few more diagrams that I'll upload. They are specific to wiring up a Pioneer head unit, but will still provide useful information regardless of what brand of head unit you go with. By the way, after trying out 2 different Android based units and a Pioneer AVH-5800, I eventually wound up with a Kenwood DDX396 and have been extremely happy with it.

Positives of the DDX396:

• 5V pre-amp outputs. (The Android based until generally use a very low 2V pre-amp output and this allows noise to be introduced, especially when you amp is in the trunk because the RCA cables are so long).
• Supports 2 phones simultaneously.
• Fast start-up
• Stable. It's only frozen two or three times in the last 3 years and I use it daily (average about 10-12 hours per week).
• Supports nearly unlimited numbers of files on USB. (I use a 1TB SSD drive with over 200k files. Many of the units only support 10k or 20k files. Android units typically don't have this limitation. Be sure to check before deciding on your head unit!)
• Decent equalizer/DSP (can't remember how many bands, 13 I think)

Negatives:

• Requires an aftermarket steering wheel controls adapter (another $30-40)

Here's the wiring diagram for a Pioneer head unit: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...f=true&sd=true

Here's the wiring diagram for the microphone and backup camera (for Pioneer): https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...f=true&sd=true

Here is THE BEST wiring diagram for the Lexus ES350 that you will find: https://drive.google.com/file/d/112P...usp=share_link