98 power steering pump seal kit
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98 power steering pump seal kit
Just ordered Gates seal kit for my 1998 es300 power steering pump. Has any one installed one of these kits? The pump is leaking a little just wetting out side no drips. I know its not the valve cover gasket just replaced those all dry there. Thought i would try this before buying new pump.
#2
Just ordered Gates seal kit for my 1998 es300 power steering pump. Has any one installed one of these kits? The pump is leaking a little just wetting out side no drips. I know its not the valve cover gasket just replaced those all dry there. Thought i would try this before buying new pump.
#4
#5
Could be that nobody has had to rebuild one yet, at least in this group.
I can't help you with this specific model, but I have rebuilt a couple of Toyota PS pumps, but I always used OEM seal kits. The procedure is in the FSM, it's not hard. Assuming the pump is similar, you do need a decent set of snap-ring pliers. Be careful when you pull the impeller out, the little vanes will want to fall off of the center hub. Be sure to also replace the bearing that the shaft rides on, it's not part of the kit.
I can't help you with this specific model, but I have rebuilt a couple of Toyota PS pumps, but I always used OEM seal kits. The procedure is in the FSM, it's not hard. Assuming the pump is similar, you do need a decent set of snap-ring pliers. Be careful when you pull the impeller out, the little vanes will want to fall off of the center hub. Be sure to also replace the bearing that the shaft rides on, it's not part of the kit.
#6
Could be that nobody has had to rebuild one yet, at least in this group.
I can't help you with this specific model, but I have rebuilt a couple of Toyota PS pumps, but I always used OEM seal kits. The procedure is in the FSM, it's not hard. Assuming the pump is similar, you do need a decent set of snap-ring pliers. Be careful when you pull the impeller out, the little vanes will want to fall off of the center hub. Be sure to also replace the bearing that the shaft rides on, it's not part of the kit.
I can't help you with this specific model, but I have rebuilt a couple of Toyota PS pumps, but I always used OEM seal kits. The procedure is in the FSM, it's not hard. Assuming the pump is similar, you do need a decent set of snap-ring pliers. Be careful when you pull the impeller out, the little vanes will want to fall off of the center hub. Be sure to also replace the bearing that the shaft rides on, it's not part of the kit.
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#8
Pole Position
I looked into this last year when I needed a new one. I needed it back on the road for her too quickly to make waiting for parts and having the car down practical, so I got a reman instead. However, I found there are kits readily available and a DIY on the web - google it with either Camry or 1mz-fe and you can find some.
The only tricky bit was getting an electrical connector off; it is very difficult to access against the firewall. After trying many things, I used a deep-well 24mm socket, a couple of shorter 1/2" extensions, and a low-profile 1/2" breaker bar from the top over the valve cover. I had to buy a new breaker bar to fit the clearance (cheap thing at HF, but hassle and time to figure out the clearance and approach). Yours is a different MY and gen so might be different. In the 02-06 is is a little tricky.
The only tricky bit was getting an electrical connector off; it is very difficult to access against the firewall. After trying many things, I used a deep-well 24mm socket, a couple of shorter 1/2" extensions, and a low-profile 1/2" breaker bar from the top over the valve cover. I had to buy a new breaker bar to fit the clearance (cheap thing at HF, but hassle and time to figure out the clearance and approach). Yours is a different MY and gen so might be different. In the 02-06 is is a little tricky.
#9
Oh yeah, I know that banjo bolt very well, a joy to work on.
Well the ps pump is working but leaking so I will order the OEM part and get to work
Thanks for the heads up brother
Well the ps pump is working but leaking so I will order the OEM part and get to work
Thanks for the heads up brother
I looked into this last year when I needed a new one. I needed it back on the road for her too quickly to make waiting for parts and having the car down practical, so I got a reman instead. However, I found there are kits readily available and a DIY on the web - google it with either Camry or 1mz-fe and you can find some.
The only tricky bit was getting an electrical connector off; it is very difficult to access against the firewall. After trying many things, I used a deep-well 24mm socket, a couple of shorter 1/2" extensions, and a low-profile 1/2" breaker bar from the top over the valve cover. I had to buy a new breaker bar to fit the clearance (cheap thing at HF, but hassle and time to figure out the clearance and approach). Yours is a different MY and gen so might be different. In the 02-06 is is a little tricky.
The only tricky bit was getting an electrical connector off; it is very difficult to access against the firewall. After trying many things, I used a deep-well 24mm socket, a couple of shorter 1/2" extensions, and a low-profile 1/2" breaker bar from the top over the valve cover. I had to buy a new breaker bar to fit the clearance (cheap thing at HF, but hassle and time to figure out the clearance and approach). Yours is a different MY and gen so might be different. In the 02-06 is is a little tricky.
#10
I did the pump re-seal myself a little more than 1 year ago on a 99 Camry V6.
So Initially I assumed the pump was leaking as it would be dripping fluid, I successfully completed the pump re-seal using the OEM seal kit from the dealer.
I found out later that the main culprit was the pressure hose that was leaking under the spiral plastic covering.
Here's a thread on Toyota Nation I used as a reference.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...p-rebuild.html
I didn't have a vice so that presented a few challenges for me getting the bolts off on the housing. I managed to get off the bolts with 2 large breaker bars and someone holding down the other side.
I have a few impact guns now, if i had to do the job again on another car it would be easy peazy.
1st off, getting banjo bolt off, I used a deep 24mm socket, U joint extensions and a breaker bar from up top.
To get the pulley off I have a pulley holding tool and a socket to get the nut off, I wedged some wood between the pump and the pulley to force it off.
All O-Rings were easily replaced, except the one that goes between the Union bolt, I had to do that one last. As mentioned I did everything without a vise.
The front seal was a pain to remove, the easiest way I found to remove it without damaging anything was to use a self-tapping screw, screw it into the face and use some pliers to pull it out. Just make sure you don't screw it in too far, just screw it in enough to get a good grip on it.
You can see this in my photos below. The new seal when in easy, just used a socket that was almost the same diameter and tapped it in.
Now for the last O-ring, without a vise or impact gun at the time I re-installed the pump on the car. to get the union bolt off (bolt on the receiving side of the banjo) I found that it uses the same 24mm socket. I just used the same combo, socket, U joint, extensions and breaker bar to get that bolt off. Be careful as there is a spring inside. Replaced that last O-ring and I was home free.
It's not a difficult job if you have a vice or impact gun, the only thing I was afraid of was messing up the vanes, but just make sure the rounded edges are on the outside.
Anywho as I mentioned, the main culprit for the leak was not the pump itself but the pressure hose, but I can at least say that there shouldn't be any leaks from that area anymore!
So Initially I assumed the pump was leaking as it would be dripping fluid, I successfully completed the pump re-seal using the OEM seal kit from the dealer.
I found out later that the main culprit was the pressure hose that was leaking under the spiral plastic covering.
Here's a thread on Toyota Nation I used as a reference.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...p-rebuild.html
I didn't have a vice so that presented a few challenges for me getting the bolts off on the housing. I managed to get off the bolts with 2 large breaker bars and someone holding down the other side.
I have a few impact guns now, if i had to do the job again on another car it would be easy peazy.
1st off, getting banjo bolt off, I used a deep 24mm socket, U joint extensions and a breaker bar from up top.
To get the pulley off I have a pulley holding tool and a socket to get the nut off, I wedged some wood between the pump and the pulley to force it off.
All O-Rings were easily replaced, except the one that goes between the Union bolt, I had to do that one last. As mentioned I did everything without a vise.
The front seal was a pain to remove, the easiest way I found to remove it without damaging anything was to use a self-tapping screw, screw it into the face and use some pliers to pull it out. Just make sure you don't screw it in too far, just screw it in enough to get a good grip on it.
You can see this in my photos below. The new seal when in easy, just used a socket that was almost the same diameter and tapped it in.
Now for the last O-ring, without a vise or impact gun at the time I re-installed the pump on the car. to get the union bolt off (bolt on the receiving side of the banjo) I found that it uses the same 24mm socket. I just used the same combo, socket, U joint, extensions and breaker bar to get that bolt off. Be careful as there is a spring inside. Replaced that last O-ring and I was home free.
It's not a difficult job if you have a vice or impact gun, the only thing I was afraid of was messing up the vanes, but just make sure the rounded edges are on the outside.
Anywho as I mentioned, the main culprit for the leak was not the pump itself but the pressure hose, but I can at least say that there shouldn't be any leaks from that area anymore!
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