Headliner fabric coming loose (1998 Camry)
#1
Headliner fabric coming loose (1998 Camry)
Hi fellow detailers,
I am wondering, how would I go about re-gluing the headliner on a 1998 Camry?
The top layer (the thin layer that's the outermost layer) is coming loose right on the edge by the rear window in one corner (the section that came loose is about 5"X3").
I am sure this is something that can be glued back easily, but what kind of glue would I need? Can someone recommended a product?
The layer that needs to get re-glued is really thin (almost see-through) so I am guessing the glue needs to be light colored (the interior is tan) because a black glue would make it obvious a repair was done.
I'd really appreciate some help here!
Thanks!
I am wondering, how would I go about re-gluing the headliner on a 1998 Camry?
The top layer (the thin layer that's the outermost layer) is coming loose right on the edge by the rear window in one corner (the section that came loose is about 5"X3").
I am sure this is something that can be glued back easily, but what kind of glue would I need? Can someone recommended a product?
The layer that needs to get re-glued is really thin (almost see-through) so I am guessing the glue needs to be light colored (the interior is tan) because a black glue would make it obvious a repair was done.
I'd really appreciate some help here!
Thanks!
#3
Another option to consider, is pulling one at a boneyard. Most of them are simply fabric on a cardboard backer that comes right down after unscrewing the A, B and C pillar interior trim.
The U-Pull-It near me charges $20 for one, and It's a pretty easy task removing it. The only problem would be if you had an interior color that was special order, might be hard to find.... if it's gray or tan, chances are good most yards will have some in those shades...
If you go the route of DIY on your own, make sure you take it out of the car and wire brush the foam and adhesive real well from the backer board, then use a name brand ( 3M etc.) adhesive engineered for that application.
The U-Pull-It near me charges $20 for one, and It's a pretty easy task removing it. The only problem would be if you had an interior color that was special order, might be hard to find.... if it's gray or tan, chances are good most yards will have some in those shades...
If you go the route of DIY on your own, make sure you take it out of the car and wire brush the foam and adhesive real well from the backer board, then use a name brand ( 3M etc.) adhesive engineered for that application.
#5
I'm still confused as to what I should do.... I wanna avoid getting a new headliner at all costs because the section that came apart is not that bad, but it is very noticeable.
So, from reading the responses here and other detailing forums I posted on... the adhesive type spray (such as the 3M 377) should not be used because it will not hold and cause the rest of the headliner to sag?
What about the 3m 376 Hi-Tack spray? I read that stuff is much stronger, has anyone tried that route?
So, from reading the responses here and other detailing forums I posted on... the adhesive type spray (such as the 3M 377) should not be used because it will not hold and cause the rest of the headliner to sag?
What about the 3m 376 Hi-Tack spray? I read that stuff is much stronger, has anyone tried that route?
#6
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So, from reading the responses here and other detailing forums I posted on... the adhesive type spray (such as the 3M 377) should not be used because it will not hold and cause the rest of the headliner to sag?
What about the 3m 376 Hi-Tack spray? I read that stuff is much stronger, has anyone tried that route?
What about the 3m 376 Hi-Tack spray? I read that stuff is much stronger, has anyone tried that route?
You do not need the high tack spray (which is 76, not 376). The only reason to use high tack is if you are using a very thick and heavy fabric. You're not.
Read directions. Follow. Enjoy.
Big Mack
#7
First off, I think you mean Super 77 from 3M. It's a good product and will not cause the rest of the headliner to sag. Used it for years, and if you follow the directions, it's damn near idiot proof for work like this. That may be an indicator about who you got that erroneous information from...
You do not need the high tack spray (which is 76, not 376). The only reason to use high tack is if you are using a very thick and heavy fabric. You're not.
Read directions. Follow. Enjoy.
Big Mack
You do not need the high tack spray (which is 76, not 376). The only reason to use high tack is if you are using a very thick and heavy fabric. You're not.
Read directions. Follow. Enjoy.
Big Mack
What's the best way to apply it? How warm of an environment do you have to be working in for it to stick well?
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#8
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As for it not working well, I built boxes for my old car, along with cover panels, and carpeted them with basic trunk liner and Super 77 as the adhesive. When I sold them 6 years later, the carpet was still very much attached. When I did vinyl or leather, I always warmed the material for stretchability, then covered it in adhesive, laying on a fairly thick coat on the enclosure or panel. Using a heat gun accelerates the curing, but only a bit. I always shoot for 24 hours regardless.
Big Mack
#9
Accounts from whom? I used this stuff for years on headliners, door panels, boxes for carpet, vinyl, leather, and a few other materials. You must follow directions, however.
The best way to apply it is dependent on the conditions a bit, but generally you need to apply a fairly good coat to both materials, allow it to tack up for a couple minutes (this is where temp comes in), then firmly attach. If you have the time, I highly recommend placing tape and a weight of some kind on the work, allowing it to cure for 24 hours. If you have a warmer environment, that is very helpful. Since you live in IL/WI, it's not exactly warm right now. You may need to bring it inside. I would not attempt to use it in a temp below 70 realistically.
As for it not working well, I built boxes for my old car, along with cover panels, and carpeted them with basic trunk liner and Super 77 as the adhesive. When I sold them 6 years later, the carpet was still very much attached. When I did vinyl or leather, I always warmed the material for stretchability, then covered it in adhesive, laying on a fairly thick coat on the enclosure or panel. Using a heat gun accelerates the curing, but only a bit. I always shoot for 24 hours regardless.
Big Mack
The best way to apply it is dependent on the conditions a bit, but generally you need to apply a fairly good coat to both materials, allow it to tack up for a couple minutes (this is where temp comes in), then firmly attach. If you have the time, I highly recommend placing tape and a weight of some kind on the work, allowing it to cure for 24 hours. If you have a warmer environment, that is very helpful. Since you live in IL/WI, it's not exactly warm right now. You may need to bring it inside. I would not attempt to use it in a temp below 70 realistically.
As for it not working well, I built boxes for my old car, along with cover panels, and carpeted them with basic trunk liner and Super 77 as the adhesive. When I sold them 6 years later, the carpet was still very much attached. When I did vinyl or leather, I always warmed the material for stretchability, then covered it in adhesive, laying on a fairly thick coat on the enclosure or panel. Using a heat gun accelerates the curing, but only a bit. I always shoot for 24 hours regardless.
Big Mack
#12
Thanks for the help Big Mack!
willhickey It's gonna be a while man. I'm doing a full detail with paint correction on this Camry in the spring so I'll probably do the headliner when I'm at it. This is going to be late March or April at the earliest because Chicago winters suck.
willhickey It's gonna be a while man. I'm doing a full detail with paint correction on this Camry in the spring so I'll probably do the headliner when I'm at it. This is going to be late March or April at the earliest because Chicago winters suck.
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