Good way to clean engine bay?
04-07-09, 09:03 AM
#2
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With all the electronics, sensors, and technology in the engine bays nowadays, I would highly suggest you cover all those parts...
Start by wetting down a COOL engine with a hose and no nozzle at low pressure to avoid wetting electronic parts...this helps remove and loosen dirt and debris.
Then use some APC using spray bottles, old toothbrushes and bag-o-rags from any Auto part store...let cleaner work into stubborn areas and use toothbrush to loosen.
Use same low pressure water to remove and clean it up. Use some rags or MF towels(depending on your engine) to dry up.
Using a blower and running engine helps the drying process too.
Take a look and inspect your engine bay...there's probably only 5 or 6 items that need to be covered. Use some Walgreen's plastic bags and double them up and tie using rubber bands. Low perssure water will help keep water from getting inside the bags.
Other than that, u'd have to go over every inch of bay with an APC and a rag and spray/wipe off a million times
Start by wetting down a COOL engine with a hose and no nozzle at low pressure to avoid wetting electronic parts...this helps remove and loosen dirt and debris.
Then use some APC using spray bottles, old toothbrushes and bag-o-rags from any Auto part store...let cleaner work into stubborn areas and use toothbrush to loosen.
Use same low pressure water to remove and clean it up. Use some rags or MF towels(depending on your engine) to dry up.
Using a blower and running engine helps the drying process too.
Take a look and inspect your engine bay...there's probably only 5 or 6 items that need to be covered. Use some Walgreen's plastic bags and double them up and tie using rubber bands. Low perssure water will help keep water from getting inside the bags.
Other than that, u'd have to go over every inch of bay with an APC and a rag and spray/wipe off a million times
04-07-09, 01:26 PM
#3
Here is my step by step routine to cleaning and protecting your engine bay. Let me know if you have any other questions.
1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail. If possible park the car in the shade or leave it in the shade as long as possible before starting.
2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover at most) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil, saran wrap or something similar. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.
3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC, Optimum Power Clean, Chemical Guys Grime Reaper, P21S Total Auto Wash, etc. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 2 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.
4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if possible. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, if possible don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.
5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up. After your are done spot treating tough stains rinse the engine bay down again with a light mist.
6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil or saran wrap and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 1 – 2 minutes to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.
7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood where the paint is exposed.
8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.
If you have any questions about this process please let me know.
Greg @ Detailed Image
1. When doing an engine detail we recommend the engine be a little warm, so turn on the engine for about 1 – 2 minutes and then turn it off. If the vehicle has been driven or is hot from previous driving it may be too warm for an engine detail. If possible park the car in the shade or leave it in the shade as long as possible before starting.
2. When the engine is at a safe temperature you can start the process. Cover any exposed electrical components (usually there are a few electrical plugs you can cover at most) and anything else you do not want water in with aluminum foil, saran wrap or something similar. Cover any exposed air filters and intakes so they don’t flood with water.
3. Spray the engine with a light mist of water. Spray degreaser over areas with grease build-ups and other heavy deposits. Avoid spraying metals and other mechanical pieces. We recommend a 3:1 dilution of Poorboy's World Bio APC, Optimum Power Clean, Chemical Guys Grime Reaper, P21S Total Auto Wash, etc. Start spraying it low or deep in the engine and work your way up towards more easily accessible areas. Let it sit for approximately 1 - 2 minutes. If you use a stronger degreaser you may want to rinse it sooner.
4. Spray down everything to remove all the degreaser and dirt and grime with a light mist from a hose. You don't want to use high-pressure water or tons of water if possible. Some areas may need to be wiped down with a rag or with a brush to break up heavy deposits. The debris should be loose now and fall off easily, if possible don't rely on pressure from the hose to break up the debris.
5. Now I spot treat any areas that didn't get clean. I'll use an old rag and spray some degreaser on it and clean up any areas I see that need a light touch up. Don't forget to clean the hood that has been flipped up. After your are done spot treating tough stains rinse the engine bay down again with a light mist.
6. Make sure you have removed the tin foil or saran wrap and all other products used in the detail from the engine bay. Start the engine and let is run for at least 1 – 2 minutes to help dry some of the water. Be careful touching the vehicle after because it can get hot fast. Then finish drying anything that may need it.
7. Now I recommend treating all the (non-mechanical) vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces with a protectant such as the 303 Aerospace Protectant. Apply this to a cloth and wipe down anything that’s rubber, vinyl and plastic that’s non-mechanical. This will help prevent premature fading and keep the surface looking great. The 303 Protectant has a low gloss matte finish that looks great and helps prevent dust build up. Additionally if you have any exposed metal you can polish them now. We really like the deep polishing power of the P21S Finish Restorer. You can also apply a sealant to any painted areas in the engine bay or the under side of the hood where the paint is exposed.
8. Step back and admire a clean and sharp looking engine bay.
If you have any questions about this process please let me know.
Greg @ Detailed Image
04-07-09, 04:02 PM
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My routine is pretty simple and it always yields good results. Normally what I do is prespray the engine w/ P21s Total Auto Wash allow it some time to dwell, agitate w/ a soft bristled brush, like the zymol wheel brush then gently rinse using low pressure. Spray the black plastics w/ Fade 2 Black shut the hood and call it a day
If you wanted to do it w/o using water, like oski mentioned, you'd have to spray w/ a degreaser and wipe w/ a microfiber towel. Nothing wrong w/ doing it this way, just might take a little longer, thats all
If you wanted to do it w/o using water, like oski mentioned, you'd have to spray w/ a degreaser and wipe w/ a microfiber towel. Nothing wrong w/ doing it this way, just might take a little longer, thats all
04-07-09, 07:39 PM
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try to read this post http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...es_engine.html hope that would help you at least, and also be sure that your are using the best car care products.
04-07-09, 07:58 PM
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http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/meandchpo.html
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04-08-09, 04:13 AM
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Yes, if its just for protection to help make cleanings easier and such, a wheel sealant is definitely a great choice. In the link above to the metal polishes, you'll notice some have gloss enhancers formulated in to the product as well. ie custom blend, optimum metal polish, etc.
04-09-09, 04:12 AM
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vwynn, the wheel sealant should technically help to prevent them, or at least make them easier to remove, since you now have a layer of protection between what falls on the wheel and the metal. You still need to be vigilant in cleaning them/drying them after washing, rain, etc.
And yes, for reaching in the inside of the rim, the ez detail brush works very well.
And yes, for reaching in the inside of the rim, the ez detail brush works very well.
04-09-09, 04:50 PM
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ahh, sorry, lol. Thought that was in response to the wheel question from vwynn 
But sure, they'll work in there as well. that brush fits into some really tight areas.
But sure, they'll work in there as well. that brush fits into some really tight areas.
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