I like where this heading

The final answer to getting aggressive ...

Waiting for your reply Bob ...

 

same here i am waiting too. one thing is i keep my alignment as close to spec as possible of course, so basically i maxed out the camber. and my car is sitting right around 1/2 finger gap. i know if you lower the car more, of course the camber will dial in more and you will have "more" space. but then you will rub the top of the wheel well a lot too if you drive like that.

 

As long as you are stretching the tires, running wide wheels actually helps with tire clearance.
Johnny mentioned using 235/30-20 & 245/30-20 on these sizes... a 235/30-20 is somewhat stretched on a 20x9 already. Combine that with the shorter overall diameter and I really don't see major issues with running this set-up. Henry had minor issues with 245/35-20, but they are quite a bit taller than the stock tires.

Here's the breakdown:

Stock
235/45-17 = 25.3" diameter
20"
235/30-20 = 25.6" diameter
245/30-20 = 25.8" diameter
245/35-20 = 26.8" diameter (Henry's old set-up)
255/35-20 = 27.0" diameter (my current set-up)

By running a tire with an overall diameter closer to stock, you effectively 'buy' yourself more clearance on the fender. My set-up is 1.7" taller than stock.... ouch!
One of the ways I will accommodate my new set-up (which is more aggressive than the old)
will be to run 255/30-20 & 295/25-20, much closer to the stock diameters than my old 255/35-20 & 285/30-20 set-up. Also, it will get the gearing back closer to stock which should help the car be a little quicker.

For Johnny's set-up, I would go with the 20x9 & 20x10 option, this will help the tire stretch look similar front to back. The 20x10.5 will really stretch the crap out of that 245/30-20; it will help with fender clearance, but it may look a little odd having a mild front tire stretch a MAJOR rear tire stretch. My Falken FK-451 are already stretched on the 9.5 & 10.5 set-up, and the tires with shorter sidewalls will appear even more stretched.

The missing part of the equation is the tire brand; some tires run narrow (falken) and some run wide (Michelin and the new Yokohama Advan Sport), so this is something to consider when planning a set-up like this.

My old Yokohama AVS Sport (not the new Advan tire) barely cleared the rear fender... we're talking two credit card thicknesses between the tire & the fender. When I recently changed to the Falkens (same 285/30-20 size tire, same wheel) suddenly I could stick a finger between the tire & the fender! The Falkens are stretched, the Yokohamas were barely stretched at all.
Based on this, I've decided to make the new wheel set-up more aggressive.

Moral of the story: wide tires on wide wheels (with a decent offset) can look aggressive, while narrower tires on the same wheels look downright weak.

 

Actually, the fronts would be running a Nitto NT555 235/35/20 for the 20x9 +30

The rears are Nitto NT555 275/30/20 for the 20x10.5 +29

Thanks for everybody's help on this, especially Johnny

Ryan

 

aren't those Nittos like really fat and wide though?

do you not want somewhat of a stretched look?

I'd do a 225/30/20 for the front..........is that too much

still trying to figure out the rear

 

I dont think you read the post before you, wherein it was explained that tire sizing is a MAJOR influence in fitment. By going with those specs you just changed the entire package and you will need much much more modding. (especially in the rear)

 

Whoa Nelly! lol

The Fk-452 should really help you out as it noted that on the lower profiles it seemed to have a completely different sidewall contour than the higher aspect ratios. I noticed that the 245/35 looked very fat, while the 25 series looked very slim.

 

The setup is for me. The tires mentioned for the rear are already in my possesion from a previous wheel, they are brand new so I am not going to change them. I have a 245/35/20 for the front, but since the tread is getting low I was going to swap out to the 235. I figured those were safe plus it would match the sidewall look from front to back. If a 225 will look ok with the rear then that is doable for me.
As for the 245/30 for the rear that was previously mentioned, I'm not sure how that size came into play.

 

Just a heads up so that you know, that rear tire that you already have means ALOT of work to get these to fit (more than just rolling and camber) you might want to just do it the right way and sell those, then perfectly match the sizes and specs for the wheels and tires. (just my .02)

 

I appreciate your input. Trying to decide on wheels, offsets, tire sizes has been killing me.

Everytime I think I have it figured out a new variable comes in to make me start over. The good

news is that the more I have been delving into this mess of mine the more knowledge I have

been gaining for present and future reference.

If you don't mind me asking for .02 more cents what width would be ok?

Thanks.

 

thank you so much for your explanation, bob, that's great stuff. having close to stock diameter defnitely helps a lot. guess running overspec tires has its price

awesome information bob is contributing here