Vip air runner questions
10-21-10, 09:26 PM
#106
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I was asked about a squeaking sounds heard with airrunner.
I too had a squeaking sound, thinking it was something bad.
But it turned out to be a little weather related along with the psi in the air bag. All you have to do is change the psi a bit and the sweaking should be gone.
I too had a squeaking sound, thinking it was something bad.
But it turned out to be a little weather related along with the psi in the air bag. All you have to do is change the psi a bit and the sweaking should be gone.
12-09-10, 08:49 PM
#107
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For those with AIR:
How often do we get an alignment done ?
How long does that alignment stay in place before another one is needed ?
Its somewhat hard to drive at the same psi the car was initially aligned at...
How often do we get an alignment done ?
How long does that alignment stay in place before another one is needed ?
Its somewhat hard to drive at the same psi the car was initially aligned at...
12-10-10, 01:16 PM
#108
i dont think it's any different than a car without air sus, i try to always drive at the pressure where the alignment was set for. the pressure in the bag should always equates to a certain ride height assuming the same amout of weight in the car and this shouldnt change over time.
01-29-11, 11:18 AM
#109
executive matchup
having had both setups installed; tein CS v.2 with UAS, and now Airrunner... my personal preference is the Airrunner. im sure that doesnt surprise you after reading everyone else's responses... my reasons are pretty much the same as those already mentioned so no need to repeat.
as far as your question on the psi goes... you really have to find out for your self.. air suspensions are touchy things man.. outside air temperature, load weight, initial parked height, bag size, rim & tire size, offset, drop, etc all play a big factor in psi you need to have dialed in before you take off safely without the risk of ripping off a fender..
ie: you could have your front bags set at 92/92 and rears set at 70/80 rolling at the perfect drivable dumped stance all day, then park for the night when its like 90 degrees out... wake up the next morning when its 60 degrees and go to lift your ride up from being slammed on its face and that same 92/80 might not even lift your car up off the ground at first until you cycle the system all the way up then bring her back down.. even then the psi/height will vary as temps vary.. just like if you pile 4 other people in the car theres really no way of telling whats "good" psi until you check and adjust, get out the car, check and make sure again, then get back in and adjust some more.. this PITA is why most people eventually opt for the manual height sensors that read your actual height off the ground, not just the pressure in the bags, like the usual digital or manual gauges that come with most air setups.. this add on is key IMO but it can be big money esp if you dont spring for it and make it part of your initial install...
on another note, if you park your car and leave it at ride height instead of slamming it/fully airing out, your system should be able to keep the car at the height you left it providing everything is solid and you have no leaks.. you may have to add a little air to get it back to preferred ride height if its been sitting for weeks without having been moved, but minor air creep can be normal on some setups. it can be tough to get a 100% leak free system. its very important to double and triple check for leaks as you progress through every part of your install to avoid the headache of hunting for a problem after the fact.
long story short; dont ever just hop in your car after its slammed on the ground and air up to what you "think" is "safe" driving psi and just take off.. unless you do a quick "max raise" and dont care that you're riding 4x4 mode, you're gonna wanna get out and check that **** and make sure its sitting where you want, the couple extra seconds that takes is worth it...
as far as your question on the psi goes... you really have to find out for your self.. air suspensions are touchy things man.. outside air temperature, load weight, initial parked height, bag size, rim & tire size, offset, drop, etc all play a big factor in psi you need to have dialed in before you take off safely without the risk of ripping off a fender..
ie: you could have your front bags set at 92/92 and rears set at 70/80 rolling at the perfect drivable dumped stance all day, then park for the night when its like 90 degrees out... wake up the next morning when its 60 degrees and go to lift your ride up from being slammed on its face and that same 92/80 might not even lift your car up off the ground at first until you cycle the system all the way up then bring her back down.. even then the psi/height will vary as temps vary.. just like if you pile 4 other people in the car theres really no way of telling whats "good" psi until you check and adjust, get out the car, check and make sure again, then get back in and adjust some more.. this PITA is why most people eventually opt for the manual height sensors that read your actual height off the ground, not just the pressure in the bags, like the usual digital or manual gauges that come with most air setups.. this add on is key IMO but it can be big money esp if you dont spring for it and make it part of your initial install...
on another note, if you park your car and leave it at ride height instead of slamming it/fully airing out, your system should be able to keep the car at the height you left it providing everything is solid and you have no leaks.. you may have to add a little air to get it back to preferred ride height if its been sitting for weeks without having been moved, but minor air creep can be normal on some setups. it can be tough to get a 100% leak free system. its very important to double and triple check for leaks as you progress through every part of your install to avoid the headache of hunting for a problem after the fact.
long story short; dont ever just hop in your car after its slammed on the ground and air up to what you "think" is "safe" driving psi and just take off.. unless you do a quick "max raise" and dont care that you're riding 4x4 mode, you're gonna wanna get out and check that **** and make sure its sitting where you want, the couple extra seconds that takes is worth it...
nah man. read my first post one more time... there's NO "correct" or "good" setting. there's too many variables between the cars and the systems installed. yeah sure you may find that if you try out those psi settings i mentioned they might be close to how you want to roll but I'm in no way recommending that you go with those #'s blind. the ONLY way to figure out what YOUR car needs is to get in, air it up some, get back out, look around, and adjust if necessary. eventually you'll figure out "about" where you should set it for your ride, but there's a learning curve.
a note on "autoleveling" setups also: they aren't all they are cracked up to be; namely the majority of the pressure only based systems, because they suffer from having to deal with all the same variables as you do yourself dialing in manually.. if you slammed your car out and hop back in and hit the "autolevel/ride height" button, that doesn't necessarily mean at all that after it's done auto filling the bags to "correct" psi that it's actually sitting
where you wanted it/set it to/is safe to drive. basically, just because the psi on your gauge reads what you set it to as "ok" for ride height, the computer stops leveling out and "thinks" it's done it's job... if you review my first post however there's many reasons covered why this setup still has a lot of room for error. and when you roll with as close a tire to fender clearance as i do, 3 or 4 psi can mean the difference between tearing your fender off or just happily scraping through your turns
i cant repeat it enough: just get out and check your height if you are raising from a full air out! i don't care what your gauges say, the two seconds this takes can save you major headaches. the only people that will tell you that fully psi based auto ride height control is 100% reliable and accurate are the ones that have a wholesale account with these companies and are trying to sell you a kit lol.
having said all that, the only reliable way you can really avoid getting out and double checking your height/psi settings before you take off is if you have one of these kits worked into your setup:
http://www.accuairsuspension.com/pro...evel_tpad.html
(a little over $1k)
http://www.accuairsuspension.com/pro...kerswitch.html
(around $800)
there are a small handful of companies that will sell these setups without having to buy the entire air suspension kit from them (you can purchase the ones i linked above separate from a full kit)... it seems to me that the Accuair is the easiest one to add to a pre existing system. i have the Easy Street AutoPilot Digital Control setup (with "auto leveling") worked into my AirRunner suspension system and im still planning to go with one of these Accuair e-level kits in the near future because im tired of the inaccuracy of "psi only" based height measurement... if anyones got any other suggestions before i drop another grand, hit me up with a PM!
good luck
a note on "autoleveling" setups also: they aren't all they are cracked up to be; namely the majority of the pressure only based systems, because they suffer from having to deal with all the same variables as you do yourself dialing in manually.. if you slammed your car out and hop back in and hit the "autolevel/ride height" button, that doesn't necessarily mean at all that after it's done auto filling the bags to "correct" psi that it's actually sitting
where you wanted it/set it to/is safe to drive. basically, just because the psi on your gauge reads what you set it to as "ok" for ride height, the computer stops leveling out and "thinks" it's done it's job... if you review my first post however there's many reasons covered why this setup still has a lot of room for error. and when you roll with as close a tire to fender clearance as i do, 3 or 4 psi can mean the difference between tearing your fender off or just happily scraping through your turns
i cant repeat it enough: just get out and check your height if you are raising from a full air out! i don't care what your gauges say, the two seconds this takes can save you major headaches. the only people that will tell you that fully psi based auto ride height control is 100% reliable and accurate are the ones that have a wholesale account with these companies and are trying to sell you a kit lol.
having said all that, the only reliable way you can really avoid getting out and double checking your height/psi settings before you take off is if you have one of these kits worked into your setup:
http://www.accuairsuspension.com/pro...evel_tpad.html
(a little over $1k)
http://www.accuairsuspension.com/pro...kerswitch.html
(around $800)
there are a small handful of companies that will sell these setups without having to buy the entire air suspension kit from them (you can purchase the ones i linked above separate from a full kit)... it seems to me that the Accuair is the easiest one to add to a pre existing system. i have the Easy Street AutoPilot Digital Control setup (with "auto leveling") worked into my AirRunner suspension system and im still planning to go with one of these Accuair e-level kits in the near future because im tired of the inaccuracy of "psi only" based height measurement... if anyones got any other suggestions before i drop another grand, hit me up with a PM!
good luck
very informative, thx! definitely some food for thought now...
Last edited by Stormforge; 01-29-11 at 11:23 AM.
01-29-11, 11:32 AM
#110
executive matchup
on a side note, anyone here know anything about skipper air suspension? are they any good? or is AR still the top choice?
link: http://www.skipper.co.jp/products/hyd/index.php
link: http://www.skipper.co.jp/products/hyd/index.php
02-02-11, 04:04 PM
#111
there's a lot of air kits available from japan such as skipper, bold world, air cobra, etc. which are all pretty good. but if you have any issues with them you'd have to send them back to japan cause none of them have branches here in the usa like air runner. air cobra does but tanabe has a "buy at your own risk" policy with these cause none of their kits have been tested to fit usdm spec cars.
08-30-11, 01:39 PM
#115
nah man. read my first post one more time... there's NO "correct" or "good" setting. there's too many variables between the cars and the systems installed. yeah sure you may find that if you try out those psi settings i mentioned they might be close to how you want to roll but I'm in no way recommending that you go with those #'s blind. the ONLY way to figure out what YOUR car needs is to get in, air it up some, get back out, look around, and adjust if necessary. eventually you'll figure out "about" where you should set it for your ride, but there's a learning curve.
a note on "autoleveling" setups also: they aren't all they are cracked up to be; namely the majority of the pressure only based systems, because they suffer from having to deal with all the same variables as you do yourself dialing in manually.. if you slammed your car out and hop back in and hit the "autolevel/ride height" button, that doesn't necessarily mean at all that after it's done auto filling the bags to "correct" psi that it's actually sitting
where you wanted it/set it to/is safe to drive. basically, just because the psi on your gauge reads what you set it to as "ok" for ride height, the computer stops leveling out and "thinks" it's done it's job... if you review my first post however there's many reasons covered why this setup still has a lot of room for error. and when you roll with as close a tire to fender clearance as i do, 3 or 4 psi can mean the difference between tearing your fender off or just happily scraping through your turns
i cant repeat it enough: just get out and check your height if you are raising from a full air out! i don't care what your gauges say, the two seconds this takes can save you major headaches. the only people that will tell you that fully psi based auto ride height control is 100% reliable and accurate are the ones that have a wholesale account with these companies and are trying to sell you a kit lol.
having said all that, the only reliable way you can really avoid getting out and double checking your height/psi settings before you take off is if you have one of these kits worked into your setup:
http://www.accuairsuspension.com/pro...evel_tpad.html
(a little over $1k)
http://www.accuairsuspension.com/pro...kerswitch.html
(around $800)
there are a small handful of companies that will sell these setups without having to buy the entire air suspension kit from them (you can purchase the ones i linked above separate from a full kit)... it seems to me that the Accuair is the easiest one to add to a pre existing system. i have the Easy Street AutoPilot Digital Control setup (with "auto leveling") worked into my AirRunner suspension system and im still planning to go with one of these Accuair e-level kits in the near future because im tired of the inaccuracy of "psi only" based height measurement... if anyones got any other suggestions before i drop another grand, hit me up with a PM!
good luck
a note on "autoleveling" setups also: they aren't all they are cracked up to be; namely the majority of the pressure only based systems, because they suffer from having to deal with all the same variables as you do yourself dialing in manually.. if you slammed your car out and hop back in and hit the "autolevel/ride height" button, that doesn't necessarily mean at all that after it's done auto filling the bags to "correct" psi that it's actually sitting
where you wanted it/set it to/is safe to drive. basically, just because the psi on your gauge reads what you set it to as "ok" for ride height, the computer stops leveling out and "thinks" it's done it's job... if you review my first post however there's many reasons covered why this setup still has a lot of room for error. and when you roll with as close a tire to fender clearance as i do, 3 or 4 psi can mean the difference between tearing your fender off or just happily scraping through your turns
i cant repeat it enough: just get out and check your height if you are raising from a full air out! i don't care what your gauges say, the two seconds this takes can save you major headaches. the only people that will tell you that fully psi based auto ride height control is 100% reliable and accurate are the ones that have a wholesale account with these companies and are trying to sell you a kit lol.
having said all that, the only reliable way you can really avoid getting out and double checking your height/psi settings before you take off is if you have one of these kits worked into your setup:
http://www.accuairsuspension.com/pro...evel_tpad.html
(a little over $1k)
http://www.accuairsuspension.com/pro...kerswitch.html
(around $800)
there are a small handful of companies that will sell these setups without having to buy the entire air suspension kit from them (you can purchase the ones i linked above separate from a full kit)... it seems to me that the Accuair is the easiest one to add to a pre existing system. i have the Easy Street AutoPilot Digital Control setup (with "auto leveling") worked into my AirRunner suspension system and im still planning to go with one of these Accuair e-level kits in the near future because im tired of the inaccuracy of "psi only" based height measurement... if anyones got any other suggestions before i drop another grand, hit me up with a PM!
good luck
09-01-11, 11:50 AM
#116
Rookie
Thinking to get a set of Air Runner for my 3GS but I'm confuse of which series of Air Runner kit should I go with ie. the basic kit, TC-5 series or the On the Ground series.
Just wondering if it is worth to get the TC-5 or the OTG? Or the basic kit is good enough?
Thanks in advance for any suggestion!
Just wondering if it is worth to get the TC-5 or the OTG? Or the basic kit is good enough?
Thanks in advance for any suggestion!
09-03-11, 10:18 PM
#117
Thinking to get a set of Air Runner for my 3GS but I'm confuse of which series of Air Runner kit should I go with ie. the basic kit, TC-5 series or the On the Ground series.
Just wondering if it is worth to get the TC-5 or the OTG? Or the basic kit is good enough?
Thanks in advance for any suggestion!
Just wondering if it is worth to get the TC-5 or the OTG? Or the basic kit is good enough?
Thanks in advance for any suggestion!
Last edited by swtjlsy; 09-08-11 at 08:36 PM.
09-04-11, 12:13 PM
#118
Rookie
I had save up for the basic kit but just wondering if it is worth to save up a bit more for the on the ground series.
Any air runner owner can give some suggestion? How was the ride when you are ridding low? Is it harsh?
10-31-11, 07:57 PM
#119
The ride on the 3gs is great on air runner better than stock and better than coilovers at least better than megans. As far as slammed I have the air runner basic kit you can't ride slammed you can ride low (no finger gap in the finder) because you need air in the bags or you will bottom out all the time
11-02-11, 05:17 PM
#120
you have to understand..
a lower stance = lower pressure vs a higher stance.
so if you were to go from..
High - Lifted car to clear large bumps or curbs
Medium - Normal ride height for crusing
Low - Slammed ride height for showing off at low speeds or smooth grounds
SLAMMEDdddd - Parked
If you drive on high setting (Higher PSI) its going to be really bouncy and rough.
If you drive on medium setting ( middle range PSI usually 120 /80) then its going to feel super nice and firm. though its not going to be super low.
If you drive on Low setting (usually tucking or something) then its going to be really squishy and boat like on the streets/highway. kinda feel unsafe.
If you drive on Slammed setting (aired out) you CANT. unless you wanna rub a hole through your exhaust, murder your fenders, cut your tires etc.
So to sum it on on the "feel" of air..
High = Really Bouncy/Rough
Medium = Perfect
Low = Soft/squishy/boaty
Slammed = DEATH
a lower stance = lower pressure vs a higher stance.
so if you were to go from..
High - Lifted car to clear large bumps or curbs
Medium - Normal ride height for crusing
Low - Slammed ride height for showing off at low speeds or smooth grounds
SLAMMEDdddd - Parked
If you drive on high setting (Higher PSI) its going to be really bouncy and rough.
If you drive on medium setting ( middle range PSI usually 120 /80) then its going to feel super nice and firm. though its not going to be super low.
If you drive on Low setting (usually tucking or something) then its going to be really squishy and boat like on the streets/highway. kinda feel unsafe.
If you drive on Slammed setting (aired out) you CANT. unless you wanna rub a hole through your exhaust, murder your fenders, cut your tires etc.
So to sum it on on the "feel" of air..
High = Really Bouncy/Rough
Medium = Perfect
Low = Soft/squishy/boaty
Slammed = DEATH