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The amount of toe in/out really depends on the car being front/rear/all wheel drive. Camber and toe are independent and have zero affect on one another. Regardless of toe in or out, a car that traveling at a constant 65mph (for example) will wear the tires essentially the same amount. Six to one, half a dozen to the other. During take-off from a standing start, yes, having a slight toe in/out (again, depending on the driven wheels) is a good thing.
From my Discount Tire Alignment report, it shows the Factory spec Specifications(Min.-Max.)
Front Camber: -1.1 to 0.4 (Left & Right)
Rear Camber: -1.9 to -0.4 (Left & Right)
Front Toe: -0.05 to 0.20 (Left & Right)
Rear Toe: 0.05 to 0.35 (Left & Right)
And my front camber came out -1.2 (L&R) but toe they adjusted to 0.05, and my rear camber is -1.8L and -2.0R, rear toe is 0.25L and 0.20R within their factory spec, so they did not do anything on rear toe. Should I have them adjust the rear toe to negative since I have -1.8 & -2.0 rear camber? just wanna slow down the speed of tire wear
Are these specs in degrees?
I wonder how many 3GS have camber at the max or just over the max specs. If this is the case the next question is does the mileage of the car have anything to do with this max camber? What I mean is the older the springs get the more they settle over time and would this not add camber?
I wonder how many 3GS have camber at the max or just over the max specs. If this is the case the next question is does the mileage of the car have anything to do with this max camber? What I mean is the older the springs get the more they settle over time and would this not add camber?
Lol...i love this thread, it's getting me headache. well...I think when the springs get more settle, camber gets change as well. Yes, it's showing degree.
Lol...i love this thread, it's getting me headache. well...I think when the springs get more settle, camber gets change as well. Yes, it's showing degree.
sorry but we're all in the same boat trying to slow down the speed of tire wear
What do you mean toe and camber are independent of each other? They affect each other one way or another unless I misinterpreted.
They do not affect one another. Camber is basically the measurement of the face of the wheel in relation to the ground. Picture a using a right angle 90 degree ruler on the floor and face of the wheel. An exact 90 degree would be 0 degrees of camber. Anything that is not exactly 90 degrees is positive or negative.
To is the relation of the front of the wheel to the rear of the wheel. Basically the direction the wheels are pointing. | | would be perfect. / \ would be toe in. \ / would be toe out.
Adjusting one or the other (Camber or Toe) should be independent of one another. Now that's not saying that some manufacturers would not create an adjustment mechanism that'll adjust both at once. Not very common but I'm sure it's out there. Of all the alignments I've personally done myself (hundreds), I've never seen this. At least not on any Toyotas or Hondas that I've laid my greasy fingers on.
I know what camber and toe is. I do my own alignment (until recently).
Adjusting camber changes toe slightly. It may not be of large magnitude but it's there. It's even mentioned in the Lexus service manual. There is a reason why camber is adjusted before toe because when you do toe first and then camber, your toe will be off again. It's the nature of geometry.
I know what camber and toe is. I do my own alignment (until recently).
Adjusting camber changes toe slightly. It may not be of large magnitude but it's there. It's even mentioned in the Lexus service manual. There is a reason why camber is adjusted before toe because when you do toe first and then camber, your toe will be off again. It's the nature of geometry.
Yes, that's a very true statement and I agree with you there.
Lol...i love this thread, it's getting me headache. well...I think when the springs get more settle, camber gets change as well. Yes, it's showing degree.
Also take into account the rubber bushings from the control arms. I just had to replace my rear toe link on my 2GS because the bushings deteriorated. Weird that some people had to max out their camber bolt when their cars are stock. That's such a small window of adjustment.
Has anyone tried slotting the holes in the front upper strut tower where it bolts up? This would allow the upper part of the strut to move out so you would have less neg camber.
Has anyone tried slotting the holes in the front upper strut tower where it bolts up? This would allow the upper part of the strut to move out so you would have less neg camber.
Not true at all. That only works on cars with McPherson strut type suspension where the strut is actually mounted to the knuckles and no upper control arm exists. This is not the case with our cars. We have upper control arms and the strut is not connected to the knuckles.
Not true at all. That only works on cars with McPherson strut type suspension where the strut is actually mounted to the knuckles and no upper control arm exists. This is not the case with our cars. We have upper control arms and the strut is not connected to the knuckles.
is the only solution adjustable upper control arms? id there a diragram of the front suspenion somewhere?
is the only solution adjustable upper control arms? id there a diragram of the front suspenion somewhere?
Well, the objective is the basically change the angle of the knuckle itself. This can be done by either the upper or lower control arms. Of course it can't be done from the factory but that's why we need aftermarket camber kits.
interesting I have a 06 gs300 awd, when i went to try on some rims I had I noticed that the inner part of my tire was more worn than the outside of the tire, so could it be I may need new struts up front I just bought it used, with 55k on it
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