I'm about to install my USRS bushings today. I emailed RR Racing, but I'd be surprised if I hear back from them over the holiday weekend.

I have a question about the torque specifications. The USRS instructions call for 150 ft/lbs for the 22mm bolt, and 110 ft/lbs for the spindle nut. However the TIS service manual calls for 111 ft/lbs for the 22mm bolt and 83 ft/lbs for the spindle nut. (see photos).

I don't want to over tighten and damage the bolts. Please advise.

Thanks,
Frank

 

If anyone is interested, this is how the conversation with RR Racing support went:

 

I have a 2013 AWD F Sport, and I have tried 3 separate times to fit these LCA USRS (Street Version) bushings on my car. No matter what, the alignment of the inner hole that goes into the subframe assembly suspension crossmember does not line up at all. After removing the front bushing fastener, my brother and I were able to manipulate the RR bushing into place in the rear on the driver side and installed it the rest of the way. Even after all that the fitment was still terrible as there is a gap on the top between the brass thrust washer and bushing whilst the bottom is super tight, even with tightening the outer pre load fastener to close up the gap as much as we could. Just when you thought it couldn't get any worse... I went to install the passenger side, but didn't have the extra hands to manipulate the bushing to thread in that inner fastener, so I stripped out the hole pretty bad. I bought a Helicoil kit and when that came in I drilled the hole, but when I was tapping it upside down at an angle with less than a foot of maneuverability; I went in crooked and messed the hole up even worse. Not only that, but ironically for a guy that wears safety glasses everyday at work, I wasn't while working on this at home and got metal in my eye so that made everything else worse of course (Yes, I learned my lesson). Now I am without a car for days and the foreseeable future since nobody knows if they can repair the hole or they say they can't do it, or they say they would replace the whole frame which of course is way too expensive. My question to you is, how was lining everything up so easy for you? I've never had these sort of fitment issues with any aftermarket parts on any of the cars I've owned.

 

Wow! Sorry to hear you had so much trouble!
I had no problem with the holes lining up. I did have some trouble getting that bolt to thread back in. Rather than forcing it and damaging the threads, I used a thread chaser kit to clean up the threads on the bolt and in the hole, then in went back in without any issue.
I'd have to go and check, but if memory serves me correctly that bolt is a M11x1.25. Is there any reason you cant just drill out the stripped hole, then tap the threads to the next size up?

 

Geez, that's crazy that you even had to do that. But you were smart enough I suppose to stop and knew exactly what you had to use to correct the situation. I would have never thought of having to go to such lengths to modify my frame in order to fit what were supposed to be straight forward bolt on parts. I thought it was an M11x1.25 fastener as well, as it does say 11 on the head, but when using a thread tester at O'Rielly's we found that apparently it's an M12x1.25 fastener so I purchased and attempted to repair the hole with an M12x1.25 helicoil kit. I'm not sure how going oversize would work, since the bolt needs to be small enough to fit in the bushing housing hole (which is an oval shape) and probably needs extra room for the preload fastener to tighten it down as well. Not only that, but I'm sure the torque values would change with an oversize fastener so Idk what those values would be.

 

Yes, you're correct M12x1.25, I couldn't remember off hand.
Cleaning the threads had nothing to do with the USRS, I would have had to do that even if I was installing the oem bushing, I had a hard time starting the bolt even without the bushing in place.
The next standard size would be M14x1.5 (automotive grade 10.9 or higher). You would of course have to widen the oval hole of the USRS by 2mm to make it work. As far as torque specs, look here: https://www.metric-bolt-torque.com/m...-torque-table/ The preload shouldn't be an issue, we're only talking about an extra 1mm on that side of the bolt.
I cant think of any other reasonable course of action to resolve your issue. Maybe others here who are more knowledgeable than myself might have a better idea, or if you have a reputable shop you go to, see what they think? If you haven't already done so, reach out to RR Racing themselves. Their support team is very responsive and they might be able to help.