ex00

Hey guys, looking into the GSF/RCF bushings after reading the positive feedbacks about upgrading the bushings and I do notice the response isn't there for the car.

One question, I have stock suspension so I understand that I need a 0 offset. If I were to get air suspension down the line, would I need to get +20 or -20 offsets? Planning for the future to minimize any more work I would eventually need to put on the car.

TOPENDMS

I needed negative caster option to get closer to factor spec. But could vary.

Sasnuke

It really depends and what your alignment is now, versus what you will ride around with when you are on air down the road.
Example...if your alignment is within spec now and you drive around on air at stock ride height or a little lower, then likely the 0 offset will be fine.
Assuming you won't ride around at higher than stock height, but rather lower, it really depends how low you go before you need a different offset.
There's no hard and fast rule, it just depends what your individual IS's alignment looks like.

TOPENDMS

Also caster doesn’t affect tire wear. It affects straight line stability (+) vs sharper handling (-).

ex00

Thank you everyone for the responses. Ordering the 0 offset since even if I do get air suspension, I will only drive it normal/little lower height. Too many potholes and uneven roads for me to keep changing the height settings.

ex00

@TOPENDMS or @Sasnuke
I remember finding the torque specs and part blowup for the LCA bushing installs but what are the torque specs for the 3 main bolts? Thought I saved the post but I guess I lost it and can't find it anymore.

Sasnuke

@ex00 Here ya go:

ex00

Thank you! That is exactly what I was looking for.

Also do I torque it to spec when the car is on all 4 wheels or when it's jacked up?

Tungstn-IS

The nut securing the bushing to the LCA should be torqued while the suspension is loaded, otherwise you create additional stress in the rubber bushings causing them to wear out quicker. The bracket bolts aren't as critical.

TOPENDMS

RWD and AWD strangely have slightly different valvues.

ex00

I'm assuming those torque specs are for RWD, and when you mean the suspension is loaded. Meaning I should hand tighten the LCA bushing nut and then drop the car on the suspension before torquing the correct specs?

Sasnuke

TOPENDMS is correct...the bolt in the diagram labelled "A" is 111 ft-lbs for AWD and 143 ft-lbs for RWD.
And yes...all the bolts can be torqued to spec with the vehicle in the air, and then once the vehicle is on the ground, torque the nut to spec.
Of course this is going to be a little challenging depending on what equipment you have available to you.

ex00

Are the torque specs for Bolts B and C also different as well?

Also how about the bushing nut as well?

Just want to clarify everything before I install it.

Sasnuke

Only bolt "A" is different...the rest are the same.
In reality bolt "A" is a subframe bolt...and I would bet money that between the AWD and RWD it's the same bolt...so it's a little puzzling why it's a different torque spec.

ex00

Ok that makes things easier, just BOLT A I just need to make sure it's RWD specs. Thank you guys!