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Hey everyone, I've been experiencing this common "pull right" issue that seems to occur for ISXXX. Everytime I get a new wheel alignment, my car tracks straight for roughly a good month, then shortly after it'll start to pull right again. I'd literally have a death grip just to try to keep my car drive straight. FYI, my car is lowered on RSR springs, without any other suspension modifications.
I have tried the following solutions so far without much luck:
Wheel alignment (did 4 times in a year...)
Wheel balance
Ensured tires are inflated properly to factory spec
Swap tires
New tires
Based on my research, some members have suggested to replace my front LCA bushings since Lexus offers 3 different settings to adjust the caster. Others have suggested a subframe adjustment. I spoke to my local Lexus service advisor and he mentioned that it's NOT POSSIBLE. Can someone please verify if our 3IS subframe is adjustable or not?
Listed below are four wheel alignment sheets just over the year:
There is no subframe adjustment per-say.
I can only imagine that recommendation was meant to mean to loosen the subframe and then retighten, in hopes that it will settle into a new position.
Theoretically it's possible if there is any movement possible where it bolts to the vehicle.
Based on your alignment specs above, there doesn't seem to be any consistency in the numbers from shop to shop, or even with multiple alignments done at the same shop.
There is one common theme though, the Right Front Caster is less than the Left Front...although the difference seems to vary alignment to alignment.
Whichever side of the vehicle has less Caster will be the side that the vehicle wants to pull to.
My suggestion, replace the front lower control arm bushings with the RCF/GSF ones.
Put the 0 Offset bushing on the Left Front and the +20 Offset bushing on the Right Front.
That should even out the Caster on the front.
You would need another alignment after. Try to find a reputable place where you can be certain of some accuracy of the numbers.
There is no subframe adjustment per-say.
I can only imagine that recommendation was meant to mean to loosen the subframe and then retighten, in hopes that it will settle into a new position.
Theoretically it's possible if there is any movement possible where it bolts to the vehicle.
Based on your alignment specs above, there doesn't seem to be any consistency in the numbers from shop to shop, or even with multiple alignments done at the same shop.
There is one common theme though, the Right Front Caster is less than the Left Front...although the difference seems to vary alignment to alignment.
Whichever side of the vehicle has less Caster will be the side that the vehicle wants to pull to.
My suggestion, replace the front lower control arm bushings with the RCF/GSF ones.
Put the 0 Offset bushing on the Left Front and the +20 Offset bushing on the Right Front.
That should even out the Caster on the front.
You would need another alignment after. Try to find a reputable place where you can be certain of some accuracy of the numbers.
Thanks fo the suggestion man! With enough research, I purchased the RCF Left -20 offset (hopefully this won't be that much different than the 0 offset) and Right +20 offset last week.
For those who are curious, I bought the following part #:
48076-24060 - RCF Left LCA bushing
48075-24080 - RCF Right LCA bushing
I'll post results in about a months time to see if there are any improvements
After you install the bushings and do an alignment, be sure to have the steering calibrated.
The simplest thing would be to have the dealer do it with the Techstream.
The calibration is actually in 2 processes: The Steering Zero Point calibration and the Rotation Angle Sensor calibration.
It's not a lengthy process, and all the tech needs is the Techstream and a relatively flat surface to park the car.
I would guestimate 1 hour labor...at whatever the dealer door rate is.
It will probably take the tech about 30 minutes to do it...if you're lucky they may charge you only 0.5 hour, but I doubt it.
Cool, I appreciate the details. Btw I noticed that you're from Richmond Hill, I'm from the area too. Maybe we could meet up sometime in the summer!
Sounds good.
Since you're in the area, if you get the alignment done, I have a Netbook with the Techstream software.
Should be able to calibrate the steering pretty easy.
Sounds good.
Since you're in the area, if you get the alignment done, I have a Netbook with the Techstream software.
Should be able to calibrate the steering pretty easy.
Looks like you have a bit of cross caster which would influence a pull to the right. This would actually help you if you do a lot of fast lane driving as the road tends to crown down to the left. It would naturally resist going left. So you may have this benefit now but if you even it out, you will have to fight your car in the fast lane. I'm assuming this all started when you decided to lower the car.
And no the subframe can't really be adjusted. It has one centered hole the bolt goes through for all the fasteners. If you ever undid the subframe and put it back, it may shift things but just out of luck. But it's not adjustable for all intents and purposes. Even if it was, that's not how you would correct what you are experiencing anyway.
I'm not sure if you could correct this to the degree you want to using LCA bushings. If you did, you'd have to do one side only, then get an alignment and just hope you get lucky. The best solution, if they make them, is custom plates (forgot what the kids call them) where you can manually set the caster to whatever you'd like.
Looks like you have a bit of cross caster which would influence a pull to the right. This would actually help you if you do a lot of fast lane driving as the road tends to crown down to the left. It would naturally resist going left. So you may have this benefit now but if you even it out, you will have to fight your car in the fast lane. I'm assuming this all started when you decided to lower the car.
And no the subframe can't really be adjusted. It has one centered hole the bolt goes through for all the fasteners. If you ever undid the subframe and put it back, it may shift things but just out of luck. But it's not adjustable for all intents and purposes. Even if it was, that's not how you would correct what you are experiencing anyway.
I'm not sure if you could correct this to the degree you want to using LCA bushings. If you did, you'd have to do one side only, then get an alignment and just hope you get lucky. The best solution, if they make them, is custom plates (forgot what the kids call them) where you can manually set the caster to whatever you'd like.
Straight from the factory the car already had a slight pull right and at the time I didn't make a huge deal out of it. After the RSR down springs install, the pulling became way more pronounced.
I couldn't find much on Club Lexus with regard to caster adjustments besides LCA bushings on the 3IS. I was looking at Figs bushings initially, but decided to opt for the RCF/GSF bushings. Some members mentioned that the Figs bushings can get squeaky after X amount of years and they'd have to re-lubricate the bushings once in while.
Who installed your springs? I would check every suspension bolt is tightened to spec. Make sure the springs are seated properly. Make sure the sway links are connected.
UPDATE:
I had the chance to install my bushings over the weekend. Just did an alignment today, left/right caster is looking good now. Car drives straight, no more pulling. Hope this post will help others that are experiencing the same problem.
Just to re-summarize what to get:
Get OEM GS-F/RC-F bushings with -20 or +20 offset depending on how bad your caster is. Mine was roughly .5 degrees off between left/right. Went with -20 (LEFT) and +20 (RIGHT).
01-01-19, 07:18 PM
2018 IS300 - Car Pulls Right
