tzxlyd

I am hearing a grinding sound when my car is moving and I turn the wheel to make a left turn. The actual wheel itself does not move very far because there is a lot of play in the steering wheel it appears. I am not certain what is causing this noise it also makes a loud noise when in reverse and the brakes are applied with a feeling of a slipping or sliding.

I just changed the outer tie rods because they were shot and now the grinding noise is louder. I thought the right tie rod was the problem but I guess that was not the problem. I wonder if this is a LCA problem or worse a steeting rack problem -- does anyone have an idea of what is causing the noise? I was getting a clunking sound and that is why I suspected the outer tie rod.

No noise or issues when I turn the wheel to the right as the car is moving or even when I turn to the left while stationary. Additionally, it appears that if I turn the steering wheel left while stopped and then make a left turn there is no noise. Could the inner tie rods be causing this problem? I am totally stumped.

1A1

Check all of your subframe bolts first. Make sure they are torqued to spec. Then check your alignment adjustment bolts/nuts for the control arms and make sure they are torqued to spec. I think the front ones are 166 ft/lbs, but check your FSM to make sure. I know that's the spec for the Supra. It sounds to me like something is loose.


Steve

tzxlyd

1A1,
I will give those a look and try to find those specs. Also, there is significant play in the steering wheel -- it takes a full 360 degree turn to get the front wheels to move slightly and 540 degrees to make a hard turn. I know this is far from correct and that is what made me think please not the steering rack. I have jacked it up and tried to move the steering rack from side to side for any play but there was none so I believe the steering bushings are ok.

Seefo

that's a ton of play in the steering wheel. You should probably track down where the play is.

If the rack is fine, it could be the splines into the pinion also.

1A1

Front control arms are 127ft/lbs. If you have that much play you need to check your inner tie rod ends. Also, check your steering shaft as well.

Steve

tzxlyd

1A1/Seefo,
From your posts sounds like I should install the inner tie rods I have purchased along with the steering rack bushings -- I was putting off this project until I isolated the problem but it appears that they may be the solution to the problem. I have roughly 200K miles so I was considering replacing the LCA bushings along with the UCAs since the UCA is so much cheaper with aftermarket parts on ebay. However, after reading this post "sc300 low control arm bushings possible?" it sounds like I should just replace the entire LCA along with the UCA to prevent a problem with the LCA balljoint.

I was thinking the steering rack is fine because it was just replaced about 60K miles ago with a rebuilt rack so I wonder even if the steering bushings should be bad with that little wear on the rack. I know it was a remanufactured rack but the bushing should have been new so the lack of any play on the rack along with it being replaced 4-5 years ago leads me to believe it is not the problem. Of course that assumes that the mechanic who did the work knew what he was doing and that is always questionable.

I am going to take a look at your suggestions and at a minimum probably replace those inner tie rods -- the bellows have absolutely no wear on them -- I take it that does not mean the inner rods are fine though. Looking at that post I mentioned above Ali SC3 leads me to suspect the steering bushings as he states if the steering wheel moves but the wheels do not it is most likely the steering bushings. what do you guys think about that assessment with regards to the amount of play in the steering wheel?

Seefo

I would agree that's probably the first place I would check. Honestly, I would think you have already checked that at this point. Who did the steering rack install? was it a reman or did someone rebuild yours?

oldManTan

grinding noise is usually bearings or brakes. i have no idea how a rod or any suspension part would make a grinding noise?

tzxlyd

Seefo,
It was a reman rack that I got from ****************** and it was about 6 years ago (about 60K miles) that the below parts were replaced:

1997 Lexus SC300 Base 6 Cyl 3.0L A1 Cardone Steering Rack Steering Rack Price: $259.50 Qty: 1 Part #: A1261688

1997 Lexus SC300 Base 6 Cyl 3.0L A1 Cardone Power Steering Pump Power Steering Pump Price: $177.40 Qty: 1 Part #: A1215922

1997 Lexus SC300 Base 6 Cyl 3.0L Edelmann Power Steering Hose Power Steering Hose Price: $19.53 Qty: 1 Part #: EP71206

1997 Lexus SC300 Base 6 Cyl 3.0L A1 Cardone Steering Rack Steering Rack Price: $183.00 Qty: 1 Part #: A1261688

1997 Lexus SC300 Base 6 Cyl 3.0L A1 Cardone Power Steering Pump Power Steering Pump Price: $91.50 Qty: 1 Part #: A1215922

tzxlyd

oldManTan,
I was thinking something with the brakes is causing that problem but I was not sure what it could be. I thought the rotor may have been loosened when I was trying to remove the outer tie rod -- I had to use a sledge hammer to knock the ball joint out of the knuckle since I did not have a puller.

I thought maybe the front right rotor was rubbing against something when the wheel is turned to make a left when the car is moving. I will look at the bearings to see if that could be the problem.

I believe Seefo's and 1A1's comment about the rack bushings and the inner tie rods were about the play in the steering wheel as to the possible causes of the problem for that issue but no one had actually identified the grinding noise possible causes until your reply.

oldManTan

Rotor isn't held on by anything except the wheel, the wheel pressing against the rotor is the only thing that holds it in place? there's no way it's rubbing on anything, it's inside the wheel, rotors don't move, just like your wheels don't move unless your lug nuts are extremely loose and your wheel would have fallen off by now. it's definitely your bearing. jack that wheel up off the ground and push on the top and bottom of the wheel. if it wiggles, it's your bearing.

tzxlyd

OldManTan,
I just got your response so I am going to do just that -- as I was reading around the forum I was beginning to suspect that but I was not certain how to determine if that was the problem. I did not want to keep buying parts only to find that was not the problem.

I changed those outer tie rods because they were shot and needed it anyway but I thought the inner tie rods were just metal that needs grease if anything. So while I have a new pair of those too I did not think they could be the problem.

I may have to replace the steering rack bushings and/or the inner tie rods to solve that loose steering problem with all that play in the wheel -- but I believed that grinding noise could be a bigger problem if not fixed immediately. I have seen those bearings are pretty inexpensive on ebay -- a set for under $35 and $20 each, etc. I hope that is the answer.

oldManTan

yea they're cheap but you need a press to get them out and put new ones in. they don't just unscrew or come out. so if you don't have a 3 ton press you'll have to take your entire hub off, take it to some shop to press it out and press a new one in.

tzxlyd

OldManTan,
Since I am going to have to replace this bearing does it make sense to replace both bearings? I have about 200K miles on the vehicle and I wonder since 1 has gone bad is it likely that the other is not very far behind. Of course you are correct that the entire hub will have to be removed to get this thing in and out -- still I wonder if they wear pretty evenly? What are your thoughts?

What do you think is causing the loose steering? The amount of play in the steering wheel to get the tires to move is a lot. Seefo suspected the inner tie rods may be the problem but I am not sure exactly how to test them to determine they are the culprit. Like I have posted I have new steering bushings but if I need to replace the rack and pinion then that is a waste of time -- is there any way to determine whether that play are the bushings or tie rods?

tzxlyd

OldManTan,
I just saw a bearing with a hub assembly being sold together so while I know that needs to be pressed in I think it will be easier to just press a bearing into a hub than to remove and then press -- especially if you think I should replace both front bearings.