andy2o3

andy2o3

So let me start by saying I bought this 92 SC About a year ago at 236k. It's now 248k. I was driving home from the bar one day and all of a sudden my car took a heavy right almost crashing me into light pole. After getting out the car and inspecting it I found that my rear passenger tire was facing outward. After towing it home and inspecting the underbody I found that the subframe rotted out and it was begginning to rot in the other side as well. Thank God I wasn't on the highway when this happened.
So I did my due diligence and looked online for any help on removing and reinstalling an SC300 subframe but got no luck. I had better luck finding mk4 supra help but no step by step tutorial. I've have my SC on jack stands right now and figuring out an angle of attack. I removed brake calipers, rotors, shocks, and dropped the exhaust system. There is so much rusty bolts where it's nearly impossible to remove without at least stripping them or breaking it. I'm thinking of removing the drive axle and dropping the differential before unbolting the subframe and removing it. If anyone has tricks or tips, please feel free to chime in.

estomax

iTrader: (2)

when i removed my subframe i removed the whole thing with the axles and everything.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7r...ew?usp=sharing

unhook the abs plugs, remove brake calipers, ebrake lines, driveshaft from front and then there are 4 bolts holding the whole thing together. i think thats it.. oh and unbolt the sway bar brackets

andy2o3

Thanks a lot bro! Was yours rusted or were you doing mods to it?

estomax

iTrader: (2)

no rust, just rebuilt it with polyurethane bushings and put 3m windoweld in the rear big bushings cause they dont make polys for that.

lexsc3

I did mine because of rust and subframe bent a couple blocks from my house. The wheel went out of place, thankfully i was going slow and it didn't happen on the highway. Replace it asap. I would find a junk yard or JDM shop selling the whole rear end. At the end of the day I ended up replacing almost the whole rear end because bolts wouldnt come out of the spindle. It was a lot of grinding, drilling, and retapping.

lexsc3

Also you're never going to get the parking brake cable bolts out of the spindle, if you find a junk yard with the whole rear end ask them not to cut the abs sensors or the parking brake cables. Parking brake cables are at least $80 each. I think I spent $300 on bolts and cables at the Lexus dealer. I fixed the car because I love it and I've owned it for almost 15 years (my first car).

andy2o3

So you cut the parking brake and abs cable? I just got to that stage where I have to remove it and im stuck -__-

estomax

iTrader: (2)

i was able to remove the e-brake cable from the brake calipers, and the ABS sensors i couldn't remove so i had to unplug them from the trunk and feed the wires back through to take the subframe out.

lexsc3

I was able to disconnect the abs cable from the body of the car and the two rear brake cables from the front brake cable. Just follow the brake cable back and you will see where they connect. The abs cable connection is behind front panel in the trunk where the gas tank is. PM me and I'll give you my phone number so you can text me if that's easier so you don't have to wait for me to check on here to reply.

aliga

iTrader: (147)

i have the complete subframe with arms, diff, etc, if you want the whole unit

300 picked up in queens.

grumpi300

iTrader: (1)

i'm typing this off memory so don't get angry if I forget a step. also I don't have abs sensors as I removed mine since I removed my abs module.
first step, remove complete exhaust from b-pipe back.
second step remove driveshaft.
third step, the e-brake cables can easily be removed right above where the driveshaft was. remove ebrake cables from car frame.
fourth step, remove tires, brake calipers, (use hangers and secure so they don't hang by brake line,) and wheel speed sensors.
for the sway bar you have 2 options. you can either unbolt the sway bar from the endlinks and leave the sway bar connected to the vehicle, or you can disconnect the sway bar from the vehicle and remove the sway bar with the subframe assembly. I did it from the endlinks and should've done it the other way because the vehicle has to be lifted super high to leave enough space for the subframe to come out from under the vehicle.
fifth step, open trunk and remove trunk linking, take out all 12 12mm bolts from strut tower to remove strut from frame.(6 on drivers side and 6 on passenger side.)

this is it, from there you can remove the 2 17mm bolts towards the front of the car/subframe (1 on drivers side of subframe and 1 on passenger side of subframe.) and 8 12mm bolts towards rear of car/subframe, (4 on drivers side of subframe and 4 on passenger side of subframe.) make sure you have at least two jacks under the subframe as it is super heavy and you do not want this thing falling out from that high. the subframe will come out with the differential, axles, hubs, struts and if you choose either with sway bar or without.

edit: I forgot that 2 or 3 of the arms are bolted to the body of the vehicle and those have to be unbolted from the body but I don't remember which ones. either way, just unbolt them from the body and they'll come out with the subframe as well.

Landen

andy2o3

I believe it the same chasis.

RudysSC

SC3 and SC4 subframes are indeed the same. My '92 SC3 has a '9X SC4 subframe in it currently. However, I nutted up and paid my local performance shop for the replacement. Everything was so rusted together that it was well worth paying someone, not to mention I replaced all bushings at the same time. Nightmare of a job to do on your back at home without proper tools and a decent work space.