username:

I need some help asap! I am reinstalling the stock springs. I cannot get the rear arm to line up with the hub to get the bolt through. One side will line up perfectly, but the other end will not budge when I try to force it to line up with a screwdriver.

First pic is from the rear of the car facing the front of the car. Second pic is from the front facing the rear.

Sasnuke

use a punch or screwdriver in the end that's misaligned and pry it so the holes line up then tap the bolt in the rest of the way.

username:

I've tried a few times to align it with the screwdriver and a pry bar, but it's not moving enough to tap the bolt through.

I will try again, after a break. Fronts are done at least.

Well I got it. Ended up putting the shock bolt and sway bar nut on first...and it worked.

TGIF

I had troubles with that as well. Learned that if I put the block on the jack more toward the front of the car, it helped lift that up more in line with the rear. What looks like centering the jack actually kind of tweaks the lining up of the two sides of the holes.

chinox22x

I've done DIY spring installations for other cars but never a lexus, seems fairly similar. I'm going to attempt this soon with my 2016 IS300 AWD. Just received my RSR springs.

Sant0rini

How do you guys get the strut out ? C bracket is hitting that bar

otakusan

For the front of AWD models, you have to detach the steering rack end (that bar) from hub assembly to get the C bracket out

Sant0rini

otakusan

when i did mine, one side came off nicely, while the other end required me to use a ball joint remover or similar too to get off

E46CT

Couldn't you also remove the upper A arm to get more clearance. looks like you only need a couple inches. just make sure you establish zero pre load on that arm when it goes back on.

Sant0rini

Pittsy

What shop did you use? Im AZ local and want to have someone do the install. I dont have the necessary tools.

TOPENDMS

I just finished AirLift on AWD. The factory manual says to remove the upper ball joint and toe ball joints, but I found that I only needed to remove the toe joint and i could push out the strut bolt by using a jack under the shock mounting arm to relieve pressure.

Youll want the Harbor Freight ball joint seperator for the tie rod.

The ball joints have a violent seperation, so keep the nut still on at the end of the threads and be careful.

There is no need to disconnect the stabilizer bar endlinks, just make sure you have both front sides raised up.
Make sure you have a torque wrench good over 82lbs to torque ALL suspension components to factory specs.

Volcom

Had a quick question for you guys that used the ball separator. I just completed the fronts using the separator and was wondering about it. It separated just fine and heard the pop, but when you torque it back after @87 ft lbs, are you supposed to feel it pop back in? Is this a ball socket? I don't see any ball or socket but was wondering why it pops apart?

Also, I am installing rsr half downs. The bottom front springs lines up to the notches/perch, but it the top hat rubber part supposed to line up like the oems to the indentation? The rubber part cannot be moved in my is350 or it won't line up putting it back up. The top part of the spring is flat and I'm just thinking it may make it's own indentation on the rubber top hat later?

Thanks in advance.

CLUM

No, when torquing a ball joint back together, it should not pop back together. The end of the ball joint is tapered and when you torque the nut on, it wedges itself very tightly into the arm. The pop you hear when you use the separator is just the force of the tapered joint releasing from the arm.

For the top rubber, since the spring is flat on the top as you mentioned, I don't believe the orientation of the rubber makes any difference. You just obviously need to make sure the top hat itself is oriented correctly so the studs line up with the holes in your shock tower.