Those with Figs Poly Lower Control Arm Bushings and Caster Arm Bushings...
#1
Those with Figs Poly Lower Control Arm Bushings and Caster Arm Bushings...
What were your before/after impressions? I drive my GS430 fairly aggressively, but I'm highway cruising 80% of the time, and I'm concerned about NVH, but my current caster arm bushings are cracked badly and in need of replacement.
My overall modding goals are OEM+. Current strategy is:
Poly Sway Bushings (just installed)
Poly Steering Rack Bushings (just installed)
Moog Ball Joints (purchased)
Moog outer tie rods (purchased)
30-40mm RCAs from, 30mm RCA's rear (searching)
Replace lower control arm bushings (OEM, Roca, other, or Figs)
Replace Caster Arm Bushings (OEM, Roca, other, or Figs)
Spring:
Figs adjustable sway bars
3GS 18" 5-star wheels and summer tires
I'll probably stick with factory shocks and springs, as the current ride with moderately less body roll would be perfect.
So - figs poly bushings or OEM? What have your experiences been?
My overall modding goals are OEM+. Current strategy is:
Poly Sway Bushings (just installed)
Poly Steering Rack Bushings (just installed)
Moog Ball Joints (purchased)
Moog outer tie rods (purchased)
30-40mm RCAs from, 30mm RCA's rear (searching)
Replace lower control arm bushings (OEM, Roca, other, or Figs)
Replace Caster Arm Bushings (OEM, Roca, other, or Figs)
Spring:
Figs adjustable sway bars
3GS 18" 5-star wheels and summer tires
I'll probably stick with factory shocks and springs, as the current ride with moderately less body roll would be perfect.
So - figs poly bushings or OEM? What have your experiences been?
#2
finished up all of mine a couple weeks ago.
huge improvement. but then why wouldnt it be? going from 15/16 year old bushings to brand new urethanes. . IMO if you plan on keeping the car a long time (most likely gonna be for life here) then do the urethanes. its an easy job, it just takes a long time if youre doing the torch method. and a shorter amount of time if you have a press.
now i just gotta get the diff bushings in and the rear subframe situation done. done for forever!
and i can go back to saving money.
huge improvement. but then why wouldnt it be? going from 15/16 year old bushings to brand new urethanes. . IMO if you plan on keeping the car a long time (most likely gonna be for life here) then do the urethanes. its an easy job, it just takes a long time if youre doing the torch method. and a shorter amount of time if you have a press.
now i just gotta get the diff bushings in and the rear subframe situation done. done for forever!
and i can go back to saving money.
#5
I have figs caster bushings, lower control arm bushings, upper control arm bushings, steering rack bushing, and sway bars/bushings. All of these drastically improve ride quality and are worth the money.
Last edited by baconcake; 01-02-15 at 06:50 AM. Reason: Misspelled words
#6
Driver School Candidate
I recently put in the figs caster arm bushings. My front end felt tighter right away. I have the caster arm bushing, moog bj's and outer tie rods. Soon to be put in is the steering rack bushing (figs) along with my coilovers
#7
I can tell you you better grease the S##T out of them. I have pretty every figs bushing for the front end. The only down side is that you might get more vibrations from the wheel. Since there isnt give anymore. I had to tighten up the preload on the steering box.If i ever do the front again I am going with the CASTER ARM PRESS-IN SPHERICAL BEARINGS link:
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=139
They don't squeak.
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=139
They don't squeak.
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#8
you definitely shouldnt NOT have any vibrations in the wheel. tightening up that preload is just masking it and ruining your rack n pinion. so you might want to take care of that
#9
There is an entire thread on adjusting the preload. All it took was about a 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn.
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