Dv8

A torch is the only way to deal with it. The LCA bolt will cook through sawzall blades like nothing you've ever seen.

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

I know that, but even if the bolt corrodes there's nothing else it would stick to in there. Aluminum doesn't corrode.

The bolt is just stuck in there because it have been tightened for a very long time. Have you tried moving it with nut head for the camber adjust? If it moves then it ain't stuck. Might be bended a couple microns since it's the one absorbing stress from the LCA. It's easy if you can get enough space between the nut head and the cross member to slip the hammer claw to pry it out. That's what I did with mine. Just saying.

Dv8

The factory front LCA bushing sleeve is aluminum, the rear sleeve is steel. Don't ask why Toyota thought that was a good idea, but thats a damn good explanation as to why bolts seize only in the rear.

You can buy replacement sleeve sets online that are solely aluminum.

LEX_MAN

iTrader: (2)

Oh man I remember my troubles doing LCA's

I also took them out and tried to beat them out with 5lb hammer .....no go . I ordered another rear cross member from ebay and called it done!

greens14

iTrader: (28)

i thought you were exaggerating but this is RIDICULOUSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!

so i couldnt ge tthem out so i took the cross member or subframe ( cant remember which it was attached to)

and while theyre out of the car with a 3 lb hammer and TWO HANDS i still couldnt get the bolt out. ridiculous. taking them to my friends shop to have magic done. i cant be bothered lol.

greens14

iTrader: (28)

oh and i used a reciprocating saw to get through the other ball joint that connects to the knuckles.