Sway Bar Link Tip
#18
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Are adjustable end links required for a lowered car? What about if it's just lowered about and inch like with the Eibach Pro Kit? The FIGS are certainly higher than the Moog end links and I wouldn't want to spend all that extra on something that isn't completely necessary.
#19
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I got Daizen Sway bar kit...its rear is adjustable to 3 settings using OEM endlinks...not sure how adjustable endlinks work with stock sway bars tho...do you feel any difference in the body roll?
#20
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My suspension is 100% stock at the moment, but its mostly just a street car that I want to get into a little light auto-x with. I already have a TRD Yellow front sway bar to put on there and I was looking at some options for a rear sway that would go well with it. I am probably just gonna go with an Eibach Pro kit after that with stock shock/struts and maybe something like a Tokico Illumina later on. I was just wondering if the adjustable end links would be a big improvement to that setup or if it's only with a more aggressive drop that they really come into play. Also, if you rear adjustable end links are necessary, does that necessarily mean the fronts are always too?
#21
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I had to replace my Front Sway bar link because I broke the studs on the original OEM one when trying to tighten to the torque spec. I think this is a common failure either to incorrect spec or because your probably have to hand- tighten both bolts to the Sway bar then torque slowly each one.
When I installed the Moog replacement Swaybar link I also noticed it kept spinning the ball joint side this is because the Moog part comes with a Nut with Serated surface that "catches" the LCA bracket as you tighten and starts spinning the link. Instead I just used the original OEM nut with the Mood Sway link and did not have to worry about it spinning.
When I installed the Moog replacement Swaybar link I also noticed it kept spinning the ball joint side this is because the Moog part comes with a Nut with Serated surface that "catches" the LCA bracket as you tighten and starts spinning the link. Instead I just used the original OEM nut with the Mood Sway link and did not have to worry about it spinning.
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In case anyone else has trouble with installing the Moog links this is what I did:
Used a C clamp to apply pressure on the end opposite of the nut to push the "ribbed threads" against the control arm. This held the bolt in place and stopped it from spinning.
Used a C clamp to apply pressure on the end opposite of the nut to push the "ribbed threads" against the control arm. This held the bolt in place and stopped it from spinning.
#24
I had to replace my Front Sway bar link because I broke the studs on the original OEM one when trying to tighten to the torque spec. I think this is a common failure either to incorrect spec or because your probably have to hand- tighten both bolts to the Sway bar then torque slowly each one.
When I installed the Moog replacement Swaybar link I also noticed it kept spinning the ball joint side this is because the Moog part comes with a Nut with Serated surface that "catches" the LCA bracket as you tighten and starts spinning the link. Instead I just used the original OEM nut with the Mood Sway link and did not have to worry about it spinning.
When I installed the Moog replacement Swaybar link I also noticed it kept spinning the ball joint side this is because the Moog part comes with a Nut with Serated surface that "catches" the LCA bracket as you tighten and starts spinning the link. Instead I just used the original OEM nut with the Mood Sway link and did not have to worry about it spinning.
I'm putting moog sway bar links in how do I get the sway bar link out on the lower part with the long threaded bolt and nut
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