My suspension woes. Front fixes and Rear fix on the way.
#1
My suspension woes. Front fixes and Rear fix on the way.
We all know we've got the issues with suspension on the GS. Some of us have vibration, some of our cars eat tires like its crazy, others are slammed and dont really care about anything, just looks. Now I've taken care of the following (prices are listed for reference):
- Riding on Brand new Megan LP coilovers (2010) --- $1,100
- Replaced Front UCA with brand new oem arms and new daizen bushings. (2010) --- $180.00
- Replaced Front Lower Ball Joints with brand new aftermarket joints (2010) --- $120.00
- Replaced front outer tie rods with brand new aftermarket rods (2010) --- $80.00
- Replaced front inner tie rods with brand new aftermarket rods (2010) --- $110.00
- Replaced front lower control arm bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- $100.00 (Daizen Kit)
- Replaced front lower caster arm bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- Included
- Replaced steering rack bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- $40.00
- Replaced front sway bar bushings with daizen bushings (2010) --- $30.00
- Replaced rear sway bar bushings with daizen bushings (2010) --- Included
- Replaced rear toe control arms with top speed adjustable arms (2010) --- $150.00
- Replaced rear traction control rods with top speed adjustable rods (2010) --- $150.00
- Brand new front sway bar end links - $50.00
- Brand new rear sway bar end links - $60.00
- Brand new axxis premium organic brake pads front and rear (4/11) --- $100.00
- Brand new brake fit kit, both front and rear (1/11) --- $50.00
- Brand new caliper bolt pins and boot kit (12/10 and 4/11) --- $25.00
- Brand new rotors front and rear (4/11) --- $150.00
- Brand new timken front bearings/hubs (2/11) --- $180.00 (Labor + Parts)
- Brand new oem lugnuts (2/11) --- $60.00
- Brand new rear motor/transmission mount --- $50.00
- 4 Wheel Alignment --- $120.00
Total to date: $2,905 (5/19/2011)
With the above list, if the labor isn't listed I installed all parts myself.
My alignment is within spec - except for I believe my rear is .02 off in some spec. I have the sheet at home and will post as this discussion gets bigger.
I've had 20's with 245/35 front and 285/30 rear -- yes I know there are out of spec. These rims were driven about 300 miles when I first bought the car and I realized the damage they've done to my suspension.
I've had 18's with 245/35 front and 275/30 rears - these didn't vibrate at all, they were the 18 inch oem infiniti g35 coupe rims. I'm so sorry I sold them.
I've had 19's with 235/35 front and 265/30 rears, moven s5r, hub rings and by far the best rims that rode the best. Sold them to get oem rims.
I've currently got 17's 245/45 all around with oem gs 5-spoke rims om the car. I know they're not make for the car and the offset isnt the best but they were the best I could find in the short timeframe. Car is hella high and I hate it, but I needed rims to rule out other issues.
Current setup:
I know figs makes suspension parts, so does nagisa, tom's etc. More often than not I dont feel the need to spend thousands on arms to make a car ride 'stiffer or rigid', for track use, for drag use, etc. If I intended to do that I'd end up buying just that.
I've got a minimal amount of vibe up front, but I believe this is due to the stiffness of the poly bushings. The rear gives off a clunk sometimes. There's other mods I've done to the car and I'll be posting shortly once this is solved. I'm not new to the car modding scene by any means.
Whats up next?
- Replacing my mounts. Transmission mount first, then the two front motor mounts.
- Next up is the bushings in the rear (circled)
- After that, then I'll move into the differential mounts
- Aside from that I'll roll into the adjustable front uca and new rear uca.
- Next I'll upgrade the diff altogether and get some new rear axles and do the rear hub/bearing while there (correct me if I'm wrong).
I'll report back, but I'd like some help and input from guys who have issues with the rear.
I know theres a susp. fixes and facts thread but its mostly referenced about the fronts but this is to focus on what I did to my front and then move onto the rear.
- Riding on Brand new Megan LP coilovers (2010) --- $1,100
- Replaced Front UCA with brand new oem arms and new daizen bushings. (2010) --- $180.00
- Replaced Front Lower Ball Joints with brand new aftermarket joints (2010) --- $120.00
- Replaced front outer tie rods with brand new aftermarket rods (2010) --- $80.00
- Replaced front inner tie rods with brand new aftermarket rods (2010) --- $110.00
- Replaced front lower control arm bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- $100.00 (Daizen Kit)
- Replaced front lower caster arm bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- Included
- Replaced steering rack bushing with daizen bushings (2010) --- $40.00
- Replaced front sway bar bushings with daizen bushings (2010) --- $30.00
- Replaced rear sway bar bushings with daizen bushings (2010) --- Included
- Replaced rear toe control arms with top speed adjustable arms (2010) --- $150.00
- Replaced rear traction control rods with top speed adjustable rods (2010) --- $150.00
- Brand new front sway bar end links - $50.00
- Brand new rear sway bar end links - $60.00
- Brand new axxis premium organic brake pads front and rear (4/11) --- $100.00
- Brand new brake fit kit, both front and rear (1/11) --- $50.00
- Brand new caliper bolt pins and boot kit (12/10 and 4/11) --- $25.00
- Brand new rotors front and rear (4/11) --- $150.00
- Brand new timken front bearings/hubs (2/11) --- $180.00 (Labor + Parts)
- Brand new oem lugnuts (2/11) --- $60.00
- Brand new rear motor/transmission mount --- $50.00
- 4 Wheel Alignment --- $120.00
Total to date: $2,905 (5/19/2011)
With the above list, if the labor isn't listed I installed all parts myself.
My alignment is within spec - except for I believe my rear is .02 off in some spec. I have the sheet at home and will post as this discussion gets bigger.
I've had 20's with 245/35 front and 285/30 rear -- yes I know there are out of spec. These rims were driven about 300 miles when I first bought the car and I realized the damage they've done to my suspension.
I've had 18's with 245/35 front and 275/30 rears - these didn't vibrate at all, they were the 18 inch oem infiniti g35 coupe rims. I'm so sorry I sold them.
I've had 19's with 235/35 front and 265/30 rears, moven s5r, hub rings and by far the best rims that rode the best. Sold them to get oem rims.
I've currently got 17's 245/45 all around with oem gs 5-spoke rims om the car. I know they're not make for the car and the offset isnt the best but they were the best I could find in the short timeframe. Car is hella high and I hate it, but I needed rims to rule out other issues.
Current setup:
I know figs makes suspension parts, so does nagisa, tom's etc. More often than not I dont feel the need to spend thousands on arms to make a car ride 'stiffer or rigid', for track use, for drag use, etc. If I intended to do that I'd end up buying just that.
I've got a minimal amount of vibe up front, but I believe this is due to the stiffness of the poly bushings. The rear gives off a clunk sometimes. There's other mods I've done to the car and I'll be posting shortly once this is solved. I'm not new to the car modding scene by any means.
Whats up next?
- Replacing my mounts. Transmission mount first, then the two front motor mounts.
- Next up is the bushings in the rear (circled)
- After that, then I'll move into the differential mounts
- Aside from that I'll roll into the adjustable front uca and new rear uca.
- Next I'll upgrade the diff altogether and get some new rear axles and do the rear hub/bearing while there (correct me if I'm wrong).
I'll report back, but I'd like some help and input from guys who have issues with the rear.
I know theres a susp. fixes and facts thread but its mostly referenced about the fronts but this is to focus on what I did to my front and then move onto the rear.
Last edited by starfyrels; 05-19-11 at 07:19 AM.
#4
#7
Will do. I have a few write ups to post up soon.
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#12
Again, not slammed by means of how some guys on here on air are running negative camber but no where near stock height.
Both, don't have noise though.