IS350 (brake) Upgrade on IS250
06-26-17, 07:39 PM
#91
I bought aftermarket wheels as well. Those dinky little calipers behind big wheels don't look right, that's my opinion. Like I said in my previous post, didn't plan on spending that much, but that's what happens when you modify cars, things add up real quick.
09-07-17, 11:23 AM
#93
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Hi guys,
I've been following this thread for a while. So in the UK, as you are aware we don't have the IS350. I have now bought the GS300 caliper, but unsure if the GS300 rotor will fit the IS250?
There is not much info on the UK forums. The IS250 rotor Diameter is 296mm and so are the GS300, Can I just use the 250 rotor? any input will help.
TIA
I've been following this thread for a while. So in the UK, as you are aware we don't have the IS350. I have now bought the GS300 caliper, but unsure if the GS300 rotor will fit the IS250?
There is not much info on the UK forums. The IS250 rotor Diameter is 296mm and so are the GS300, Can I just use the 250 rotor? any input will help.
TIA
09-10-17, 09:03 AM
#94
Hi guys,
I've been following this thread for a while. So in the UK, as you are aware we don't have the IS350. I have now bought the GS300 caliper, but unsure if the GS300 rotor will fit the IS250?
There is not much info on the UK forums. The IS250 rotor Diameter is 296mm and so are the GS300, Can I just use the 250 rotor? any input will help.
TIA
I've been following this thread for a while. So in the UK, as you are aware we don't have the IS350. I have now bought the GS300 caliper, but unsure if the GS300 rotor will fit the IS250?
There is not much info on the UK forums. The IS250 rotor Diameter is 296mm and so are the GS300, Can I just use the 250 rotor? any input will help.
TIA
09-10-17, 11:14 AM
#95
For all of single handed DIY; buy some speed bleeders as pumping the pedal into a submerged vat of fluid is not as good as speed blenders or two people pressure bleeding.
i.e. in car person presses pedal, builds pressure and secondary person crack bleeder letting fluid out and seals bleeder the moment fluid stops coming out.
An **additional tip** tap the caliper from the bottom while under pressure and it dislodges trapped air allowing it to escape. DO NOT tap in the direction of piston travel. You will be rewarded with a much firmer pedal by pressure bleeding and tapping than simply pumping into a jar as the threads of the bleed screws are NOT air tight.
Last thing: unless you track your car and really heat the calipers and fluid, stay with DOT3 fluid or plan on bleeding every 2 years as DOT4 fluid abosorbs moisture at nearly double the rate of DOT3. Both are hygroscopic and absorb moisture. 3 should be done every 3 years. I do it every 2.
Also, do your brake bleeding on low humidity days to reduce moisture being trapped in the system and DO NOT use fluid that was previously opened as it is absorbing moisture the moment you broke the seal.
Happy Braking....
i.e. in car person presses pedal, builds pressure and secondary person crack bleeder letting fluid out and seals bleeder the moment fluid stops coming out.
An **additional tip** tap the caliper from the bottom while under pressure and it dislodges trapped air allowing it to escape. DO NOT tap in the direction of piston travel. You will be rewarded with a much firmer pedal by pressure bleeding and tapping than simply pumping into a jar as the threads of the bleed screws are NOT air tight.
Last thing: unless you track your car and really heat the calipers and fluid, stay with DOT3 fluid or plan on bleeding every 2 years as DOT4 fluid abosorbs moisture at nearly double the rate of DOT3. Both are hygroscopic and absorb moisture. 3 should be done every 3 years. I do it every 2.
Also, do your brake bleeding on low humidity days to reduce moisture being trapped in the system and DO NOT use fluid that was previously opened as it is absorbing moisture the moment you broke the seal.
Happy Braking....
Last edited by 2013FSport; 10-28-18 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Clarity
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jcgeorge (11-26-20)
09-10-17, 08:43 PM
#96
For all of single handed DIY; buy some speed blenders as pumping the pedal into a submerged vat of fluid is not as good as speed blenders or two people pressure bleeding.
i.e. in car person presses pedal, builds pressure and secondary person crack bleeder letting fluid out and seals bleeder the moment fluid stops coming out.
An **additional tip ** tap the caliper from the bottom while under pressure and it dislodges trapped air allowing it to escape. DO NOT tap in the direction of piston travel. You will be rewarded with a much firmer pedal by pressure bleeding and tapping than simply pumping into a jar as the threads of the bleed screws are NOT air tight.
Last thing: unless you track your car and really heat the calipers and fluid, stay with DOT3 fluid or plan on bleeding every 2 years as DOT4 fluid abosorbs moisture at nearly double the rate of DOT3. Both are hygroscopic and absorb moisture. 3 should be done every 3 years. I do it every 2.
Also, do your brake bleeding on low humidity days to reduce moisture being trapped in the system and DO NOT use fluid that was previously opened as it is absorbing moisture the moment you broke the seal.
Happy Braking....
i.e. in car person presses pedal, builds pressure and secondary person crack bleeder letting fluid out and seals bleeder the moment fluid stops coming out.
An **additional tip ** tap the caliper from the bottom while under pressure and it dislodges trapped air allowing it to escape. DO NOT tap in the direction of piston travel. You will be rewarded with a much firmer pedal by pressure bleeding and tapping than simply pumping into a jar as the threads of the bleed screws are NOT air tight.
Last thing: unless you track your car and really heat the calipers and fluid, stay with DOT3 fluid or plan on bleeding every 2 years as DOT4 fluid abosorbs moisture at nearly double the rate of DOT3. Both are hygroscopic and absorb moisture. 3 should be done every 3 years. I do it every 2.
Also, do your brake bleeding on low humidity days to reduce moisture being trapped in the system and DO NOT use fluid that was previously opened as it is absorbing moisture the moment you broke the seal.
Happy Braking....
05-28-18, 09:04 PM
#103
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07-04-18, 10:34 PM
#104
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I want to upgrade my front calipers on my is250 2015 to the 350 calipers. I Will I need new rotors correct? and is there anything else I need that I'm forgetting?
07-05-18, 06:23 AM
#105
New front and rear rotors. New front pads, the rear pads are the same with the 250/350. Metal cutting sheers and a hammer to cut and modify the front dust shields and just a hammer to modify the rear dust shields for rotor clearance. While you're at it, new brake fluid to to flush out the air bubbles and old fluid. If you are buying used 350 calipers, make sure you take them apart first to make sure they do not have rust, I had to rebuild my calipers before using them,