Camber
when i had eibachs i had inner tire wear, i had the tires dismounted and flipped and remounted. Then i had Zeals which was LoW, stockies tires have no tread on the edges, basically bald. the front camber wear is bad. toe is within specs but camber is -2.4-2.7. the rear have no camber wear indication, could probally go another 1.5 years easy. i have 15k on the car.
So 2.4 to 2.7 front camber is factory spec? I really need to get it done, Ill post a pic for you guys later on when I get home. When is that camber correction kit coming out?!? WE ARE IN NEED HEREEE!!! eheh
^^^ he had zeals on ultra-low. thus, the camber is -2.4 to -2.7.
H&R springs won't throw your camber off. if anything, your post-alignment report should show near-factory specs.
H&R springs won't throw your camber off. if anything, your post-alignment report should show near-factory specs.
nitto invo's are a decent replacement; i came from the sport maxx's.
IMO they have a little more road noise, and the squareish sidewalls are more prone to sidewall flex... but they fill out the wheel wells much better.
did you get your alignment done?
IMO they have a little more road noise, and the squareish sidewalls are more prone to sidewall flex... but they fill out the wheel wells much better.
did you get your alignment done?
But by looking at the picture, is that wear from the car not having an alignment?
before measurements
LF ____ RF
camber -1.7 Camber -1.8
Caster 7.5 Caster 8.6
toe 0.03 Toe .25
LR ____ RR
Camber -1.9 Camber -1.6
Toe .23 Toe 0.08
AFTER Measurements
LF ____ RF
Camber -1.7 Camber -1.8
Caster 7.6 Caster 8.1
Toe 0.03 Toe 0.05
LR ____ RR
Camber -1.9 Camber -1.6
Toe 0.11 Toe 0.11
What do you guys think? I'm running Nitto Invo's on the front tires, stock Bridgstones on the rears
LF ____ RF
camber -1.7 Camber -1.8
Caster 7.5 Caster 8.6
toe 0.03 Toe .25
LR ____ RR
Camber -1.9 Camber -1.6
Toe .23 Toe 0.08
AFTER Measurements
LF ____ RF
Camber -1.7 Camber -1.8
Caster 7.6 Caster 8.1
Toe 0.03 Toe 0.05
LR ____ RR
Camber -1.9 Camber -1.6
Toe 0.11 Toe 0.11
What do you guys think? I'm running Nitto Invo's on the front tires, stock Bridgstones on the rears
i'd have to vouch this does suck. when i had my H&R springs as well.. tires ate up reallll quick.. and i've done my alignmentS everytime i changed both tires.. the camber was going bad easily and was in the yellow after i had the springs on with 8k miles. with dunlops on i'd say the tires would last 15k thats it tops. and i flip them every 3-6k (but i'm a spirited driver 
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Last edited by Pnuge88; Oct 14, 2008 at 04:45 PM.
So, it doesn't matter if they're green, yellow, red, or any other color. Only one thing matters - are the tires running true when you are driving down the road? If they are, then you won't have inner edge wear problems. If they're not, you'll kill your tires in short order. Since most alignment monkeys are just looking at the machine until it turns green, you could be WAY off on total toe but meeting specs on everything and still have wear problems.
Again the Supra - OEM specs say 3mm toe in +/-2mm. I wore out my tires in 6k miles from inner edge wear with toe set precisely to 3mm (as precisely as you can get with rubber bushings). Imagine how quickly they would have died at 5mm (still showing green on the alignment screen). Now, at the end of the day, we figured out the car needs 1mm toe in. It is the exact MINIMUM spec Toyota gives for the Supra. The machine will be twitching between red and green at 1mm. But guess what? I never EVER had a wear problem again, and I have -1.5 degrees of camber on all four corners of my Supra.
So, you're getting screwed by your tech's lack of basic understanding. The goal isn't to get the lights green. The goal is to get the tires to wear evenly. The setting that makes this possible may not show green at all on the alignment rack, but it will be the alignment that works best in the real world.
That makes alot of sense! WTF do I find someone who knows how to adjust it the right way? ( I'm in Sacramento)
No, they look like crap if you want to run your tires for any length of time. Here's an example - OEM spec for a MkIV Supra is 3mm toe in at the rear. If you set your toe to this, you'll eat up your tires in 6k miles. AMHIK. So I worked with a guy I know and trust who has been doing alignment for 35 years with hand tools. He set me up, and I published the numbers on the web. If you google lance alignment, you'll see them.
So, it doesn't matter if they're green, yellow, red, or any other color. Only one thing matters - are the tires running true when you are driving down the road? If they are, then you won't have inner edge wear problems. If they're not, you'll kill your tires in short order. Since most alignment monkeys are just looking at the machine until it turns green, you could be WAY off on total toe but meeting specs on everything and still have wear problems.
Again the Supra - OEM specs say 3mm toe in +/-2mm. I wore out my tires in 6k miles from inner edge wear with toe set precisely to 3mm (as precisely as you can get with rubber bushings). Imagine how quickly they would have died at 5mm (still showing green on the alignment screen). Now, at the end of the day, we figured out the car needs 1mm toe in. It is the exact MINIMUM spec Toyota gives for the Supra. The machine will be twitching between red and green at 1mm. But guess what? I never EVER had a wear problem again, and I have -1.5 degrees of camber on all four corners of my Supra.
So, you're getting screwed by your tech's lack of basic understanding. The goal isn't to get the lights green. The goal is to get the tires to wear evenly. The setting that makes this possible may not show green at all on the alignment rack, but it will be the alignment that works best in the real world.
So, it doesn't matter if they're green, yellow, red, or any other color. Only one thing matters - are the tires running true when you are driving down the road? If they are, then you won't have inner edge wear problems. If they're not, you'll kill your tires in short order. Since most alignment monkeys are just looking at the machine until it turns green, you could be WAY off on total toe but meeting specs on everything and still have wear problems.
Again the Supra - OEM specs say 3mm toe in +/-2mm. I wore out my tires in 6k miles from inner edge wear with toe set precisely to 3mm (as precisely as you can get with rubber bushings). Imagine how quickly they would have died at 5mm (still showing green on the alignment screen). Now, at the end of the day, we figured out the car needs 1mm toe in. It is the exact MINIMUM spec Toyota gives for the Supra. The machine will be twitching between red and green at 1mm. But guess what? I never EVER had a wear problem again, and I have -1.5 degrees of camber on all four corners of my Supra.
So, you're getting screwed by your tech's lack of basic understanding. The goal isn't to get the lights green. The goal is to get the tires to wear evenly. The setting that makes this possible may not show green at all on the alignment rack, but it will be the alignment that works best in the real world.