sxwk12

Driver's side
99 GS300

How in the world do you remove the tie rods? Are they reverse threaded? Do you just have to keep at it until they come loose? Is there a special tool I need to buy to get it off? We have been out there for about an hour now trying to break that thing loose.

sxwk12

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

Hey man,

Just looked in the manual and it doesn't specify any special tools for removal.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Jonny

Tammy

Might check with a local rental agency or auto supply for a screw press removal tool.

corkycal

iTrader: (8)

go to your local parts supply store:kragen/pepboys/ect and get a joint puller for around 11-15 bucks. this should do the trick. all this does is pull the joints apart. don't use a pickle fork, you may damage parts.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

okay to remove from the inner end that attaches to inner tie rod you need a 19mm wrench to hold the main part of the tie rod end and a 14 mm wrench to crack the nut loose once loose just spin off , make sure to count the threads and mark where it was or your toe will be way off and toe wear can happen quickly and destroy your tires when 50 miles of driving

if its the joint end , goto to auto zone and get the import tie rod puller it costs like $12 to buy .. it will pop the joint free within 30 secs and not damage the boot

sxwk12

Alright after about 3 1/2 hours, we finally got it. All we did was put the vice grips on that 19mm nut and hit a couple of times. You see our problem was that we didn't know which way to turn either the nut or the tie rod. So to people who want to do this here's a tip, the nut is actually pressing up against the tie rod holding it in place. So instead of "loosing" the nut, you actually want to turn it like you are tightening the nut. Just knock it loose and the tie rod will come right off.

That was the driver's side that took me 3 1/2 hours. The passenger side took me about 10 minutes from start to finish. The very first thing we did after taking the caliper off was loosened that nut.

On a side note, I broke the boot on the Stabilizer Bar Link on the driver's side. gonna have to replace that sometime this week.

But even with those changed out, I still have a terrible vibration when I get up to about 65 mph and gets really bad at 80mph.

Once again, thanks for everyone's responses.

Sidney

Eric00GS3

So I'm resurecting this thread because I'm at the same point and having the same problem with my tie rods as sxwk12 was having.

I'm right in the middle of a suspension revamp, have gotten everything removed except the tie rod because I can't crack the 19mm nut. I've sprayed with penetrating oil. I've tried the 14mm and 19mm wrenches but the 14mm keeps shreading the metal. I've also tried the vice grips and hammer, but that's not working either. Does anyone else have any other ideas?

Also, can someone verify which way to screw the nut. If I'm looking down the shaft of the tie rod from the loose end, do I turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Thanks in advance.

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

Make sure you get an alignment after installing tie rods..

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

For all of you guys working on the suspension. Make absolutely sure you use metric and correct sized sockets. Don't half *** it and use the next size up because you don't have the exact size socket. I also know of people who use a SAE standard size to try to substitute since they didn't have the exact size metric and the standard one looked "close enough". They ended up stripping the nut completely and having to cut the whole nut off and repress a new bolt in. Also make sure the sockets are 6 point and not 12. At such high torque levels required for removal, you need the absolute best socket to nut fitment to prevent slippage and stripping the nut. Another tip for removal is to use a breaker bar. Basically a 18-28" bar to give more torque for loosening those hard to remove bolts. If you still can't get enough leverage, then put on a LONG steel pipe at the end of the breaker bar and it will be a breeze.

Check out the example below. I was removing the tough head bolts on my motor. Before the long extension bar, I had to have somone else help me pull the breaker bar to get the bolt loose. After the extension bar, I just grabbed the long bar at the very end and pulled with one hand and not too much effort

Eric00GS3

I totally agree with JeffTsai. Breaker bar will save time and energy.

I've been using the correct metric sized wrenches and can't get the outer tie rod off. The nut I'm trying to remove is between the outer and inner tie rods and thus you can't get a deep socket around it. You need to use a wrench.

If anyone knows whether to twist the nut clockwise or counterclockwise it would me much appreciated.

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

the breaker bar is a great idea, but it won't fit for a tie rod unless you have a 5ft high lift.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Pitman puller ftw. When I was doing ChrisES' ball joint install, I was able to put the pitman puller onto the tie rod, and then use my impact gun to blast it open. Took less than 10 seconds

Eric00GS3

I have a pitman puller and was able to get the tie rod joint free just fine.

My problem is I'm trying to remove the inner end of the outer tie rod that attaches to the inner tie rod. There is a 19mm nut that I can't loosen. I've tried turning it both ways and it doesn't budge either way.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

That's odd..you should be able to break it open. Spray on some lubricant. Have 2 wrenches. One to hold the actual tie rod (there is a spot to put the wrench on), and the other to hold the actual nut.

Or just use a hammer and hit the wrench. To loosen up the nut, you move the wrench clockwise.

Eric00GS3

Yeah I don't understand it. From everything I've read, it seems that I should have been able to brake it. But thanks for verifying which component is turning which way. So I'm moving the wrench on the tie rod clockwise. I'll give it another shot. Maybe from allowing the penetrating oil to do it's magic all night will make a difference.