GUNRU-GS4

Alright guys this is what I got. 1998 GS 400 85k miles car is rolling on stock 17"s with new Michelin Pilots and all stock suspension. At highway speeds I have no vibrations car rides pretty smooth. Car is not drastically pulling to one side or the other but I do have that wandering feeling. Just kinda floats side to side at fast speeds, not very planted feeling. Shocks are good, no leaks or bouncing. I thinks it defintely time to do ball joints. So my real questions are:

1. At this mileage should you do ball joints & outer tie rods together?

2. Is it worth paying the extra $ and getting the lower control arms done at the same time as above or could I hold off to a later time. Or is it easier to do control arms at the same time as ball joints and tie rods and save some labor money?

3. If I was to do control arms later I would have to get another alignment right?


I would love to buy and get the Daizen bushing kit installed but $100 for parts and $1000 for labor, seems way too pricey. I got quoted $525 for lower ball joints, outer tie rods, and lower control arms from Sewell. Over $225 cheaper than my local Lexus dealer. One last thing, Sewell's parts number for lower control arms are

4806830300 - 4806930300

My Lex dealer said those are not the correct numbers and there is another piece that should be replaced with those as they are an assembly????

markgs4

I have a 98 GS400, with approx 102k miles. Yesterday, I had my lower ball joints, and outer tie rods replaced. They also found that my front passenger side wheel bearing was completely shot, so they replaced that as well.

Now, before these parts were changed, my car would vibrate a lot, the front end was noisy/clanky, and I guess because the wheel bearing was shot, there was always a loud clunking noise coming from the front (both at low and fast speeds).

With these parts now replaced, the difference in handling is night and day. My car actually drives like a brand new car would, which is weird because for as long as I can remember, my car has not been this smooth, by no means as responsive, and never this quiet. I think these changes have even eliminated the majority of rattles I would here from the dash (oddly enough).

I couldnt afford to do the control arms and bushings all at once, so concentrated on just the ball joints and outer tie rods first (hadnt planned on getting the wheel bearing changed, but it was a necessity, and Im glad it was caught and changed yesterday).

At a minimum, I would recommend changing the lower ball joints and outer tie rods at the same time

e-man

What exactly are the outer tie rods? About how much are they? Is it always a good idea to replace the outer tie rods at the same time you replace the ball joints?

RIPP7399

i need to do the same thing i believe.. no, i know i do.. i have a 99 gs300 that has a 140k on it...
what did the ball joint and tie rods cost.. and suggestions on brands..... i know lexus dealers here in town are outrageous..... i also would like to do the upper a arms as well.... cant do both at same time however.... which would you guys suggest doing first .... car does vibrate at high speeds and doesnt seem to hold an alignment well....

GUNRU-GS4

I got a quote from Sewell Lexus (lexus-parts.com). They are cheapest!!!

4333039535-JOINT ASSY, LWR BALL $54.91
4334039415-JOINT ASSY, BALL, LH $54.91
4546059015-ROD ASSY, TIE, RH $49.00
4547059015-ROD ASSY, TIE, LH $49.00
4806830300-ARM SUB-ASSY, SUSPEN $159.00 (lower control arm)
4806930300-ARM SUB-ASSY, SUSPEN $159.00 (lower control arm)

total = 525.82 This is with CL discount.

So parts for ball joints and tie rods are pretty inexpensive.

Tammy

The outer tie rod (ends) are the outmost points of the steering rack... bolted to the wheel spindle and independently steering each front wheel. They allow for individual adjustment of the front wheels to the steering wheel center. This is the "castor" angle for the toe-in, which keeps the front wheels rolling parallel to each other.
They are replaced if wear or play is experienced in the ball coupling. The caster adjustment is needed if they are replaced . It is logical that the tie rods be replaced with the ball joints, since they interact directly with one another..

e-man

You're killing me over here, B. Just killing me. The list just keeps on growing.

GUNRU-GS4

E-MAN have read the horror stories about people's ball joints breaking on them? Some serious expensive damage! If its time to get them, its worth it.

markgs4

After reading the horror stories about on here about wheels falling off, etc., I knew that these had to be changed. The majority of threads advised that you at least replace the ball joints and the tie rods at the same time, which is what I did. I wanted to do more, but my budget only afforded me to get these items changed for now (...I didnt anticipate needing to change a wheel bearing too, but Im glad I had it replaced also).

I will try to do the control arms later this year, as well as the bushings. But yes, the horror stories from other members was enough to make me get these items fixed, especially given the higher miles on my car.

e-man

Yeah, I hear you. It's really not the ball joints or the tie rods. I'll do both of those. But when you throw in the control arms and a new set of shocks and front strut caps, the number starts getting up there.

e-man

So Mark, did you notice a difference in the ride after replacing the ball joints and outer tie rod ends? Also, I could be wrong, but didn't you also replace your shocks at some point? Maybe I'm thinking of someone else.

markgs4

I noticed a WORLD of difference...almost to the point where Im sure my car (since ive owned it) never drove so smoothly. Mind you, I am like the 3rd owner of this car, but for as long as I can remember of the last 2 years, its never driven this smooth. I think changing the broker wheel bearing also played a big role in it too, but yes, the car definitely drives smoother, handles better, and is much quieter.

I did change my stock suspension not long ago, I installed Bilstein PSS coilovers around September last year.

ARISTO 161

iTrader: (3)

i have a clunking from my front passenger as well...
all this time i thought it was the sway bar... guess not
i guess ill have to replace the wheel bearing!
do you know why it breaks down or what damage it can do if it is shot?

markgs4

Not sure how extensive the damage the broken wheel bearing can do, or what would attribute to it breaking, but just the sound of that clunking alone was really scary to me. Just hearing would make me think my wheel would fall off, no joke (that along with the stories of the ball joints, etc). But now with it replaced, there is absolutely no clunking, let alone any noise coming from the front suspension. Its great

UDel

My 2001 GS430 creaks and groans from the passenger side when going over speed bumps and has a annoying rattle when traveling at faster speeds over slight bumps from the passenger side. The rattle sounds kind of like a loose peice of thin metal or a faster creak and I thought it was the metal sheild part around the brake calipers but it seemed tight when I looked at it. These sounds seem to be coming around the front tire passenger area but I can't be completely sure since they only happen while the car is moving. The car does not vibrate or ride rough to me. It only has 49K miles and started doing it about a month or so after I had it.

Does this sound like a ball joint, tie rod, control arm problem on a car that has less then 50K miles? When I lean and press down on the car when its parked it does not make any noises. My steering wheel also slightly turns to the left when it is going straight or when I am going straight I notice the steering wheel is turned slightly to the left instead of centered to maintain going straight but the car does not pull in any direction when I let go of the steering wheel although it is hard to tell because roads are angled for drainage. Is there anything to look for like with a flashlight in the suspension area to see what is wrong? I am worried about taking it to a mechanic because they can say it is anything and try to charge a fortune if I am not sure what is wrong.