just replaced front lower ball joints
07-29-05, 09:23 AM
#64
Lexus Test Driver
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finally got around the change the ball joints, lower control arms, tie rods.
Difference is night and day. Steering got so much tigher. I would say its 95% back to new car feel. high speed ghost steering is GONE! Local mechanic did an amazing job!
If anyone is thinking about doing this. DO IT!!!
Difference is night and day. Steering got so much tigher. I would say its 95% back to new car feel. high speed ghost steering is GONE! Local mechanic did an amazing job!
If anyone is thinking about doing this. DO IT!!!
Agin I can't wait.... 
07-29-05, 01:59 PM
#67
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Originally Posted by SUPRATRD
We've been getting alot of orders for these, please make sure you get factory boxed items for your Lexus, we carry them
Clublexus forum effect.
Just changed my ball joints, control arms, and tie rods. All purchased from lexus-parts.com and install locally.
AMAZING
Thank you clublexus!
07-29-05, 06:35 PM
#68
I will try there to but i went on Sewell Lexus and looked everything up... I'll have to order the Ball joints from a dealer because places like thepartsbin.com and other sites don't carry the ball joints.... I think they were 76.00 a piece from sewell... I will order this stuff in a few weeks... I will also check out lexus-parts.com... Sounds like you did good 
10-26-05, 08:16 PM
#69
Originally Posted by SUPRATRD
We've been getting alot of orders for these, please make sure you get factory boxed items for your Lexus, we carry them
I'm still deciding if I'm going to to try a DIY or have my mechanic do it. I'm going to get a four wheel alignment after it's all installed. I'm also getting the Carson Tune STB too. I'm going on a mountain run the first weekend in November. I'll tell you how it performed later.
Last edited by Lexizm; 10-26-05 at 08:20 PM.
11-06-05, 05:30 PM
#72
Hey guys I just replaced my ball joints and outer tire rod ends on the GS3. All I can say is that this is a MUST do replacement . I have no vibrations, or shakes in the steering wheel and the steering is much tighter. I was driving on the highway going from on ramp speed (0 - 40) to really fast highway speeds (70 - over 100) with no vibrations throughout the entire range. My wife even confirmed that there were no shakes or anything (the much better ride), she grove it for awhile.
The DIY write-up was great, well done. I've worked on cars before when I had my mustang, so I'm not afraid to tinker with the car a bit. It wasn't hard at all. The one thing I must say is that you must get the the tool (Pittman Tire Rod End Puller) at AutoZone or some other place. It was a life saver. I can't imagine doing this job without it. The first one (driver side) took me a while because I broke a adapter and had to go to the store waaaay across town. Suggestion, always use 1/2 inch rachet and sockets; I learned the hard way. Oh, also the 'big/large' bolt under the the ball joint for GS's is a 17 or 19mm, 19mm I believe, not a 27mm. Other than that,everything was dead on. Great DIY post
I took the car on a mountain run (GA Mountains) with the WRX club. The car was handling very well. Hanging as usual but, it felt a lot better going into, through, and out of the twisties turns. Granted, I had on a STB this time, which made the car REALLY handle, much flatter going in and coming out of the turns. This is another must have.
But back to the thread. Anyone over 50K should do this replacement. I have 125K on my GS3, but you couldn't tell now by riding or driving it.
. I have no vibrations, or shakes in the steering wheel and the steering is much tighter. I was driving on the highway going from on ramp speed (0 - 40) to really fast highway speeds (70 - over 100) with no vibrations throughout the entire range. My wife even confirmed that there were no shakes or anything (the much better ride), she grove it for awhile. The DIY write-up was great, well done. I've worked on cars before when I had my mustang, so I'm not afraid to tinker with the car a bit. It wasn't hard at all. The one thing I must say is that you must get the the tool (Pittman Tire Rod End Puller) at AutoZone or some other place. It was a life saver. I can't imagine doing this job without it. The first one (driver side) took me a while because I broke a adapter and had to go to the store waaaay across town. Suggestion, always use 1/2 inch rachet and sockets; I learned the hard way. Oh, also the 'big/large' bolt under the the ball joint for GS's is a 17 or 19mm, 19mm I believe, not a 27mm. Other than that,everything was dead on. Great DIY post
I took the car on a mountain run (GA Mountains) with the WRX club. The car was handling very well. Hanging as usual but, it felt a lot better going into, through, and out of the twisties turns. Granted, I had on a STB this time, which made the car REALLY handle, much flatter going in and coming out of the turns. This is another must have.
But back to the thread. Anyone over 50K should do this replacement. I have 125K on my GS3, but you couldn't tell now by riding or driving it.
11-07-05, 07:06 AM
#73
Original CL Sponsor since 1999
Hey Lexism,
Im glad everything made a great improvement to your car. To any other members that are looking to do this, we just received a shipment of ball joints and tie rod ends. So if your interested just PM me or call anytime.
Im glad everything made a great improvement to your car. To any other members that are looking to do this, we just received a shipment of ball joints and tie rod ends. So if your interested just PM me or call anytime.
11-07-05, 02:03 PM
#74
Pole Position
Originally Posted by Lexizm
Hey guys I just replaced my ball joints and outer tire rod ends on the GS3. All I can say is that this is a MUST do replacement . I have no vibrations, or shakes in the steering wheel and the steering is much tighter. I was driving on the highway going from on ramp speed (0 - 40) to really fast highway speeds (70 - over 100) with no vibrations throughout the entire range. My wife even confirmed that there were no shakes or anything (the much better ride), she grove it for awhile.
The DIY write-up was great, well done. I've worked on cars before when I had my mustang, so I'm not afraid to tinker with the car a bit. It wasn't hard at all. The one thing I must say is that you must get the the tool (Pittman Tire Rod End Puller) at AutoZone or some other place. It was a life saver. I can't imagine doing this job without it. The first one (driver side) took me a while because I broke a adapter and had to go to the store waaaay across town. Suggestion, always use 1/2 inch rachet and sockets; I learned the hard way. Oh, also the 'big/large' bolt under the the ball joint for GS's is a 17 or 19mm, 19mm I believe, not a 27mm. Other than that,everything was dead on. Great DIY post
I took the car on a mountain run (GA Mountains) with the WRX club. The car was handling very well. Hanging as usual but, it felt a lot better going into, through, and out of the twisties turns. Granted, I had on a STB this time, which made the car REALLY handle, much flatter going in and coming out of the turns. This is another must have.
But back to the thread. Anyone over 50K should do this replacement. I have 125K on my GS3, but you couldn't tell now by riding or driving it.
. I have no vibrations, or shakes in the steering wheel and the steering is much tighter. I was driving on the highway going from on ramp speed (0 - 40) to really fast highway speeds (70 - over 100) with no vibrations throughout the entire range. My wife even confirmed that there were no shakes or anything (the much better ride), she grove it for awhile. The DIY write-up was great, well done. I've worked on cars before when I had my mustang, so I'm not afraid to tinker with the car a bit. It wasn't hard at all. The one thing I must say is that you must get the the tool (Pittman Tire Rod End Puller) at AutoZone or some other place. It was a life saver. I can't imagine doing this job without it. The first one (driver side) took me a while because I broke a adapter and had to go to the store waaaay across town. Suggestion, always use 1/2 inch rachet and sockets; I learned the hard way. Oh, also the 'big/large' bolt under the the ball joint for GS's is a 17 or 19mm, 19mm I believe, not a 27mm. Other than that,everything was dead on. Great DIY post
I took the car on a mountain run (GA Mountains) with the WRX club. The car was handling very well. Hanging as usual but, it felt a lot better going into, through, and out of the twisties turns. Granted, I had on a STB this time, which made the car REALLY handle, much flatter going in and coming out of the turns. This is another must have.
But back to the thread. Anyone over 50K should do this replacement. I have 125K on my GS3, but you couldn't tell now by riding or driving it.
11-07-05, 05:35 PM
#75
Originally Posted by e-man
Hey Lexizm. How would you characterize the ride in terms of ride quality prior to doing the replacement? I have 73,000 miles on my 99GS4, and the ride has gotten unusually harsh over the last few months. Did you have this issue?
Last edited by Lexizm; 11-08-05 at 03:23 AM.