edgy

Big Shoutout & "Thank You" to:

Chin Kwan for the beautiful little stainless adaptors that make this a bolt on swap!
Ryan 23 forthe great deal o nbrand new calipers
Carson Toyota for the Shims & Springs & anti rattle plates etc...

Irv-USC for his support & help & willingness to come by the EDG family Compound/Garagewerkz & we got to wrenchin! & knocked this out on both cars :crazy:


Well, here is as much detail as i can muster...
NOTE!!! BEFORE YOU TRY THIS!!! BE SURE YOUR WHEELS WILL CLEAR THE CALIPERS!!!! it is CRUCIAL!!!! find the "template that fits onto the BACK of your wheels & has a tab that fits into the hole for the lug fro m the back side... it represents the caliper spacing based on the back of the wheel that sits flush on the hub,... & will tell you if your spokes will hit the calipers or not right away.......

....Tools needed:

Jack & Jack stands
Breaker bar & or torque wrench 3/8 in socket wrench
8mm, 14mm, 17mm & 10mm sockets & open end wrenches...
brake fluid,... two bottles at least.....
4 (at least) copper brake fitting " crush" washers
lots of rags....
Motiv Products "Powerbleeder" or mity vac.. .or any other brake bleeding tool you might use...
Strong *** Tin/ metal snips or Dremel/RotoZip with cut off wheel...
Chin Kwan Stainless Steel SupraTT/IS300 caliper Adaptor Set
Supra TT calipers Springs, Shims, & Anti squeel rattle plates
Supra TT '93/'98 Rotors of your choice and Pads
Optional... Very hi end brake fluids ( Motul/Ate/Redline) & StainlessSteelBrake Lines

FIRST, you will need to press out the steel inserts for the bolts in the calipers & have the adaptors from Andrew pressed in!,... they MUST go in with the offset holes sitting towards the OUTSIDE of the calipers so the holes when mounted are as FAR APART as possible when they are installed...u cannot do ANYTHING before you do this...

NOTE: when working on the wheels each side...don't forget to realize that........... turning the wheel to left or right 'lock' can open up a TON of room to work in behind the wheel esp. when torqueing bolts & or breaking them loose...

OK, Jack up the car & pull off the wheels...

pull the caliper lines from oem caliper...14 mm socket.
..carefull!... have lots of rags or disposable towels...brake fluid will run out of the line & go everywhere.. they run like *****es!.. have a small flexible plastic cup poised under the caliper line/bolt, cuz as soon as you loosen it, it will leak ALOT & the brake fluid will run out of the hole in the caliper you just opened up by unbolting the line at least 1-3 ounces should run out of the caliper alone so keep the cup there to catch as much as possible......

Wrap the line in a rag or two, & fold it up out of your way...hook it to the hard line...

Unbolt the caliper... two 17mm bolts... remove it & careful not to spill too much more fluid out of the hole in the rear... it still has alot of fluid in it...

Now you need to cut the dust shield off...... there are 4 bolts holding it on, 8mm bolts,... pull the bolts & it falls loose... but it is trapped behind the hub... cut it at the narrowest points & as far apart as possible & bend the sides back & apart & pull it off...

Now you can bolt on the caliper...but you should slide the rotor on 1st & then secure it with a lug nut or three..... then position the caliper & bolt it on.. the clearance will be TIGHT but it will work perfectly... .be sure to torque the caliper bolts properly...

Here is the caliper/adaptors being test fitted...bolted RIGHT up perfectly...note the Supra/TT adaptors pressed into the calipers for the bolts.. .they are the silver discs with flattened sides on the back of the calipers...


now you can bolt the brake line onto the TT caliper... here is where you can swap lines to SS if you want,... it IS a good idea, but be careful of the fittings from the flexible line to the hard line,..you want a fresh clean perfect fitting 10mm open end wrench Or you can round off the brass fittings easily! ...I will not go into the rest of that process here in detail.. basically you take the old line off & pop the new stainless steel line on... torque the fittings properly... or just GOOD & HARD...... then bolt to caliper.....

....Be sure to position the BRAND NEW Copper Crush washers on top & bottom of the new or older brake line ON the Banjo bolt. There should be one on either side of the line/fitting on the bolt...above & below...
...be sure to tighten the bolt/line onto the caliper properly & solidly & hold the line to keep the line pointing UP if it has a tendency to be twisted with the bolt when tightening...

Irv's Car: rotor on,...caliper being bolted up...



Apply the anti rattle goop to the backing plates for the pads...the arrow points in the direction of rotation... be sure you put the goop on the right side of the plates.. .or just apply to the backs of the pads... you need to get clear on how to put the clips & plates & shims & springs & pads w/pins together in the caliper......it is not hard & fairly easy to figger out if you have done anything like this or your own brakes before... but you should know what to do before this point... so put it all together & do it right...



Now you must bleed the system... if you just replaced the front calipers... then you need only bleed those circuits... follow the usual bleeding procedures to complete the job. if you are swapping to a new fluid you will need to bleed the entire system,... & you must check he fluids for compatibility. You might need to flush your old system out if the new fluid is synthetic or what not & not compatible with what you had... FIGURE THIS OUT 1ST!! i used ATE Super Blue racing Dot 4... no problem!

if you are doing brake lines you usually do the front & rear.. .so the rear will have to be bled too... this is a time where a good bleeding tool can save TONS of time... the power bleeder is awesome... it uses 10- 15 pounds of pressure to force the new fresh fluid thru the entire system & pushes out all the old fluid automatically.. .you just hook it up & test for a good seal.. .if you have one you can then fill with the brake fluid you prefer & pump it up & then go open the bleed valves on the calipers following the recommended bleeding order.. .the pressurised fluid will be pushed thru the entire system & out the calipers in minutes taking old fluid & detritus & any air bubbles however small that might have been in there as well..... no hassles no pumping, a TRUE One man operation & with VERY little mess! i can't say enuff about this tool, best 60 bux i spent....

When bled properly,the pedal should feel normal... inspect all bolts for proper torque settings, caliper bolts Brake line etc...


put the wheels back on, torque your wheel lug nuts properly & follow a proper bedding in procedure before enjoying your new brakes!! Very Important!!!













WHY......?

These brakes have been touted & are recognised as as one of the best examples of production brakes on a mass produced car from any company ever.... the Toyota Engineering is solid & they are a value too even buying all new stuff.....A little over 12 inches or over an inch more than the IS front brakes i think & MUCH better/bigger caliper.....

This setup cost me less than $900 bux or so with Drilled & slotted rotors/ Pads/ Fluid/ Calipers/shims/springs/Adaptors/Paint....& judicious searching for the best prices on rotors & pads.......used calipers can be had for less than new i am sure & if in great shape should work fine...I figger, it'll be a grand / $1100 if you get all new parts & some one to do the install/pressing work for ya...much less painting if you want to paint... I was able to do all that myself... :wink: The whole job took us a good half day plus, to do two cars... we got started right around 11- 11:30am & finished up around 6-7 pm not rushing......one can be done in 2.5 hours or less easily i would guess if you are good at this stuff,... & have everything you need... i also think we can do them now in 2 hours now we know what to do...

Enjoy!!

Hope this helps you with the plan....
Ed G.


PS: ... after proper bedding & such, i drove about a hundred miles yest just cruising the hills & railing the turns.. .i was gentle on the brakes as they are so new... but still you can feel the difference... less pressure needed for the same bite that slows you...excellent modulation.... i LOVE them... i will cruise them this week, & let them cycle naturally with normal use...they should be good for hammering by next weekend....


edg

flipside909

Ed, you need to follow this up with the engine and tranny swap now!

rominl

iTrader: (4)

damn i almost moved this post to the engine forum

edgy

DOH.. .sorry i edited the title to be more representattive of the info...

rominl

iTrader: (4)

i helped you with the thread title

irv_usc

ok, since i just started posted at CL, here is the info for my brake parts:

Rotors- Rotora Supra TT fronts (carson toyota)
pads - EBC Greenstuff (tirerack)
supra TT brake shim kit, springs (carson toyota)
Caliper mount adaptors (chin kwan from is300.net)

to come:
stoptech SS braided brake lines (IS300 fitment)
supra TT backing plates (not yet mounted, needs customization)


step by step How-to to come, possibly.

HKGS300

any pics of the Chin Kwan adapters? and how much were these?

irv_usc

they are the two silver things in that picture.

Neo

iTrader: (3)

Yup. These are one of the best bang-for-the-buck BBK. If your wheels can clear them, it's almost a no brainer. One of the downsides though is the weight but then again, the stock brakes are pretty heavy too.

Just noticed the custom L on the wheel. Nice touch.

HKGS300

I think I read somewhere that the Supra calipers were more just a bit lighter than the stock IS/GS calipers.

irv_usc

nope, however the stopping power more than makes up for the weight. there is more stopping power than i will most likely ever need.

lucino

Awesome write-up! Good job ! What's next? The turbo kit? Can Supra calipers fit on to 350Z's, anyone know?

edgy

SHHHHHHHHH........................................







.........................TBKO SC next

flipside909

Edgy-->

Other drivers-->

Lvangundy

According to lex400sc's SC FAQ here are the numbers -

OEM Lexus SC400 Brake Specifications
caliper 2 piston x 1 piston 17.5 lbs.
rotor 11.65 inch 20 lbs.
rotor thickness 1.26 inch

OEM Supra TT Brake Upgrade ($600 to $1000)
caliper 4 piston x 2 piston 15 lbs.
rotor 12.6 inch 20 lbs.
rotor thickness 1.26 inch