PIC: SUPRA BRAKES and TEIN FLEX/EDFC
11-18-03, 04:31 PM
#1
PIC: SUPRA BRAKES and TEIN FLEX/EDFC
Damn, these look so sweet just sitting on the garage floor I almost do not want to install them
Thanks to Bobby and Steve over at Carson. I ordered these yesterday afternoon and received them TODAY from UPS. Hell, UPS was even 4 hours earlier than usual. Fantastic service guys. Thank you Carson and also Steve at Lextasy for the great price on the Flex's.
Lee
Thanks to Bobby and Steve over at Carson. I ordered these yesterday afternoon and received them TODAY from UPS. Hell, UPS was even 4 hours earlier than usual. Fantastic service guys. Thank you Carson and also Steve at Lextasy for the great price on the Flex's.
Lee
Last edited by Pearlpower; 11-18-03 at 04:32 PM.
11-19-03, 02:45 PM
#6
Originally posted by rominl
hey lee, between the trd and the wilwood you tested before, is the trd a lot better?
hey lee, between the trd and the wilwood you tested before, is the trd a lot better?
Huge difference. The Wilwoods just could not handle the weight of the GS even with Hawk HPS pads. I am running the same pads on the Supra TT upgrade and it is a noticeable improvement.
On the Teins.
If you even "thinking" of getting these, get them!
They are fantastic.
Highly recommended.
Huge improvement over L-Tuned.
Firmer than L-Tuned
Much flatter cornering and lane changes ( I have not felt this planted since I have had my lowered 944turbo)
I really like the fact that the ride height can be adjusted without changing the spring rate.
The EDFC is very nice though honestly I cannot ascertain much difference from the softer and hard settings. Nice for fine tuning after the spring rate is adjusted manually
Really does instill confidence.
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11-20-03, 09:40 AM
#9
Adjusted
I adjusted the ride height a tad and also the spring rate. The ride is now smoother at the softest setting and I would put it on par or even softer than L-Tuned. After driving 400 mile with the setup, I can now say that the settings DO make a difference in ride quality. I'm going to take it back to where it was as it is a bit soft for my taste at this level.
Benefits over L-Tuned.
Ability to control height and spring rate separately.
Able to "balance" the car on the 4 corners
No "stink bug" look as L-Tuned drops the front more than the rear and gives the GS a strange stance that I never cared for.
High quality kit. Very impressed on this one.
Hard Acceleration Squat diminished for better control. Helpful for upcoming blower kit.
Handling confidence increased exponentially
DOWNSIDE
Price
It's "green"! Red, Blue, or yellow would have been preferable.
Benefits over L-Tuned.
Ability to control height and spring rate separately.
Able to "balance" the car on the 4 corners
No "stink bug" look as L-Tuned drops the front more than the rear and gives the GS a strange stance that I never cared for.
High quality kit. Very impressed on this one.
Hard Acceleration Squat diminished for better control. Helpful for upcoming blower kit.
Handling confidence increased exponentially
DOWNSIDE
Price
It's "green"! Red, Blue, or yellow would have been preferable.
Last edited by Pearlpower; 01-04-04 at 11:11 PM.
11-20-03, 10:03 AM
#10
Re: Adjusted
Originally posted by Pearlpower
$1350 including the EDFC- You get what you pay for.
$1350 including the EDFC- You get what you pay for.
Originally posted by Pearlpower
It's "green"! Red, Blue, or yellow would have been preferable.
It's "green"! Red, Blue, or yellow would have been preferable.
11-20-03, 10:05 AM
#11
Lexus Test Driver
Yes, make sure the torque setting are correct when on the TEIN's which would make it squeak. If you have sway bars make sure the bushings are greased very well.
I have no more squeaking from anywhere once I got everything serviced. I had a local mechanic do my install job. But I had the TEIN certified tech perform the service. You can get a dealer list off their web site.
The coils might seem too firm right now. They will settle in about .25 inch and get softer over time. That is my experience on them.
You should run about 3-4 clicks softer in the rear than the front. Hangs better into curvers and give slightly less bounce on bumps.
I have no more squeaking from anywhere once I got everything serviced. I had a local mechanic do my install job. But I had the TEIN certified tech perform the service. You can get a dealer list off their web site.
The coils might seem too firm right now. They will settle in about .25 inch and get softer over time. That is my experience on them.
You should run about 3-4 clicks softer in the rear than the front. Hangs better into curvers and give slightly less bounce on bumps.
11-20-03, 10:30 AM
#13
Lexus Test Driver
Top part of the strut. Its the bottom piece to where you adjust the stifness settings using the hex wrench.
That has to be torqued corrrectly otherwise the internal shock that sits within the green cover would not be at the optimal settings. This will cause the shock to be misaligned and not absorb the impact correctly the way it is designed to do. It could make things squeak or give you that "popping sound" when going over bumps.
I would retorque every 5k miles or so.
That has to be torqued corrrectly otherwise the internal shock that sits within the green cover would not be at the optimal settings. This will cause the shock to be misaligned and not absorb the impact correctly the way it is designed to do. It could make things squeak or give you that "popping sound" when going over bumps.
I would retorque every 5k miles or so.
11-20-03, 10:40 AM
#14
Tightened the rear strut tower brace. Retorqued the upper seat nuts. No more squeak. I do not see how torque or adjusting the spring locks is going to reduce or eliminate noise or bind the shocks unless they are loose.
Last edited by Pearlpower; 11-20-03 at 11:57 AM.
11-20-03, 11:16 AM
#15
Originally posted by Pearlpower
You should run about 3-4 clicks softer in the rear than the front. Hangs better into curvers and give slightly less bounce on bumps.
I have found that making the rear softer of a GS only induces oversteer even further which is not what I would prefer. Depends of course on other issues such as tire size, PSI, and other mods. But with my setup, I am very comfortable with running the rears a tick harder than the front to reduce the oversteer and increase the understeer a tad. So far so good.
Tightened the rear strut tower brace. Retorqued the upper seat nuts. No more squeak. I do not see how torque or adjusting the spring locks is going to reduce or eliminate noise or bind the shocks unless they are loose.
You should run about 3-4 clicks softer in the rear than the front. Hangs better into curvers and give slightly less bounce on bumps.
I have found that making the rear softer of a GS only induces oversteer even further which is not what I would prefer. Depends of course on other issues such as tire size, PSI, and other mods. But with my setup, I am very comfortable with running the rears a tick harder than the front to reduce the oversteer and increase the understeer a tad. So far so good.
Tightened the rear strut tower brace. Retorqued the upper seat nuts. No more squeak. I do not see how torque or adjusting the spring locks is going to reduce or eliminate noise or bind the shocks unless they are loose.