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2004 LS 430. Everything works, including NAV System, but can get no sound from CD/AM/FM. Can see inserted CD "playing/advancing" and Radio will display stations, etc.; but no sound. No radio repair service in Corvallis, OR other than Lexus Dealership ~50 miles away. Would like to diagnose further before assuming an Amplifier issue and sending out for repair, or $pend by taking to dealer$hip. Great car, will if I must.
Suggestions? CajunRosa
Last edited by RA40; 11-14-18 at 09:27 AM.
Reason: descriptive title
I took out the navigation unit in my SC430 and shipped it to a company in CA that fixes audio / navigation units. I saw something like that on eBay (comes with a 1 yr warranty). As mentioned you can find used units for a little cheaper.
First thing I would do would be to check all the fuses as it may just be a blown/damaged fuse.
Also go into the Audio section and check what the balance/front-back settings are and the volume.
Yes, a blown amp is possible, but unlikely that both left and right and sub channels have all blown.
Finally, you can do a full reset by removing the -ve battery connector from the car battery for 30 secs, then reconnecting it.
Dear guys
I have the same issue on my LS with mark levison .
I did replace the amp and still the same issue .
Its obvious that I reset the system as I disconnected the battery go replace the amp . Yet I have the same issue .
For the person saying about replacing the fuse. Does the fuse have an y relation to the sound as all other is working . I believe the fuse have relation with the full sound system . Kindly update guys
As others have said, check all fuses related to NAV and Audio first. Should be 2 or 3 up front and the main amp fuse in the back.
If that doesn't fix it, I'd unplug and replug all of the components that interface with the audio system as they're wired inline. Nav DVD player, tuner module, AMP, Lexus Link (if equipped) any phone modules, then disconnect the battery and see if anything works.
If not, do a google search for the service mode on the audio system. You can put it in self-test mode and it will tell if all modules are working correctly. This is a series of light/button pushes to go into service mode. It's very slow to update and change when you select menus, so give it some time and see what you find.
If none of that works, it's likely the AMP. I had United Radio refurb mine a few months back. They sell refurbishments on EBay as "Radios and More" https://www.ebay.com/usr/radiosandmo...72.m2749.l2754 Wait for an ebay %off coupon and you can save a decent amount of money of a refurb.
Hi All, following up on this.
I was driving short range today and on the way home I heard a "thump" like something rolled over in the trunk, which was not the case, but the audio sound went completely dead, no sound from radio or CD. Nav and screen is fully functional.
Does that sound like the fuse to you or did the amp just fully blow? Wouldn't a blown amp still make noise, like very soft audio or crackling?
ok, here is my 5-hour-later update.
Got into the trunk and checked the 30-amp fuse, of course that's not the problem. But when I turn the car on, the system comes on full and beautiful for about 2 seconds and then cuts out with no loud static. I don't think a blown amp would sound perfect for 2 seconds, do you?
I read on another thread on the topic I think @BigBoomer told someone to pull all the cables on the amp and spray contact cleaner on all the connectors. What do you think?
I'm 6'6" and healthy but I'm also close to 52 and my back has limited tolerance for installer-ish positions. If you think pulling the connections and spraying is a way to go, I will sit myself down in the trunk and do it, but otherwise I'm off to a stereo shop. Definitely not the dealer this time, car stereo labor is way less.
Anyway, let me know your thoughts.
Sounds to me like a capacitor failure inside the Amp.
They can sometime go "bang" when they let go, but the more usual failure mode just oozes the electrolytic fluid all over the circuit board.
If you can get the Amp out and the cover off, then it is often pretty obvious if a capacitor has let go.
Not recommending them as have not used them, but I found this company on the web that repairs the amps. https://www.opuradio.com/products/re...30-radio-audio
The capacitors in question are under the square/rectangular rubber sheets.
Thanks, @BigBoomer ! Appreciate the knowledge share. Definitely a boom. What a bummer, but the smallest of my repair bills lately. Huge shipping cost to the US, so I may contact the place that re-soldered all my NAV connections in California and see if they can do it.
So if a capacitor let go and it sounds like we are confident about that, would that allow for the 2 perfect seconds on start-up?
The thump you heard was most likely the subwoofer in package tray. Caps very rarely ever explode and generally are caused by overvoltage. They generally just spew out and would not hear that inside car. Your 2 second sound could also be cd or cassette trying to initialize. Remove all cds and cassette and try and also try changing inputs. If your subwoofer completely shorted out it would create a shorted output and overprotection circuit in amp would cut amp off. Any speaker can do this and the way the foam support fails this is a possibility. In your 2 second sound listen at each speaker and see if all have sound. I would start at subwoofer. A good diagnosis of the system will determine the problem without shot gunning it to minimize costs.
@alextv , thanks. That is really interesting. What do you mean by "package tray"? I know the sub is in the rear deck. When I drove in it today, the 1 or 2 second thing only happens on initial start-up. Then I turned the audio off. Later while driving I did hear a little pop from the sub. So what would cause that? I don't really think the foam surrounds would do that. I have had 2 of these LS430's and have had to have some foam surrounds replaced, but a blown speaker (crusty foam surround) rattles at bass notes. I have had my driver and passenger door speakers done, and the rest of the system was flawless until the "thump" or "boom" yesterday. I am not a high volume rocker or rapper., but occasionally hit bass notes.
Reading around, the amps sound they are kind of a known issue with these cars, but I don't hear bad things about the subs for the most part, but anything is possible. I know it is 8-inch, low ohm.
So tell me what would cause a sub to short and activate an overprotection circuit?
@BigBoomer , what are your thoughts on a shorting sub?
If the foam is gone, you can destroy the Sub (mine died due to a broken wire) but for it to short out would be difficult.
The ML Sub is 16ohm so if someone replaced it with a 2 or 4 ohm, that could lead to that 'short' and trip out the amp.
As Alex said I think you need to examine the Sub first (just pop the cover off) and see if it's busted or has been replaced.
If the foam is gone, you can destroy the Sub (mine died due to a broken wire) but for it to short out would be difficult.
The ML Sub is 16ohm so if someone replaced it with a 2 or 4 ohm, that could lead to that 'short' and trip out the amp.
As Alex said I think you need to examine the Sub first (just pop the cover off) and see if it's busted or has been replaced.
Agree it is very easy to check. Package tray is the back where the subwoofer is and maybe that term is not used anymore. The internal wiring of the coil can short and change resistance which would cause the overload so even if it looks good check the resistance to verify somewhere around 16 ohms. You mentioned having something done with the speakers and if they were replaced verification of each speaker impedance needs to be done. Lower impedance speakers may not cause problems initially but weaken amp parts over time.
10-27-18, 10:49 PM
Audio system - No Sound
