Just had the infamous oil cooler lines burst and dump oil on a 2nd gen Lexus Rx350 2gr-fe engine 215k miles, only noticed when restarting the car at a gas station and had a extremely rough idle and noise, then it settled, but drove it around the gas station once and saw the red oil light flash briefly on a turn, then went back around the block and shut it off to get towed, saw the oil leak then.

It was very low on oil, nothing on the dipstick and added 2 quarts and don't even think it registered initially. Got it towed and replaced the cooler line so the leak is fixed and changed the oil, noticed a small amount of metal glitter in the oil/oil filter teardown.

Now when starting again its extremely rough idle, and throws those misfire codes, haven't driven it at all yet because expecfting it just to go limp mode or stall and don't want to further damage.

Got it looked at by twice, one tore off the valve cover and saw broken timing chain guide and a off time/loose timing chain and said I could possibly save it with a timing job/replace chains and guides.

Other shop didn't even look at it and wants to do a used engine swap off the bat going off what happened. Apparently 1st guy stripped the OCV banjo bolt so they can't get it started without replacing the top cover, really frustrating.

I'm still thinking it can be saved since it starts and only ran on low pressure for a couple seconds, but not sure if the codes point to permanent damage and should I just swap the engine off the bat? If it is just the timing job and chains/guide, how much should that be? A used engine swap I'm getting quotes from 4100-4700 total but with varying mileage on these used engines, and apparently minimal warranties, and just wanna avoid a new engine if ever possible..

edt: Codes from cheaper scanner and torque app are p0018, P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, really rough idle, uneven/stuttery, so definitely misfiring haven't even tried driving it

 

You're already forming highly uneducated solutions without the slightest clue as to what is wrong, maybe investigate and exaimine facts before blindly trying to solve the unknown problems.
Of course any used engine would have a minimal warranty and of course you'd like to avoid the most expensive and invassive repair work.
Start with a compression check - low compression or high differentiation between clinders then you're engine is shot, all high compression your engine should be fine. Do this compression check by hand DO NOT run this engine any further. Timing chain and guides isn't a bad job. If you have high compression it means your valves and cylinders should be fine
Cheap scanners still read the needed codes no different than the most expensive scanners
Stuttering is due to your timing being off a tooth or two hence why you do not want to fire up the engine any further

Let this be yet another reminder for anyone with a RX350 - do your oil cooler lines now do not put this critical need off any further

 

Gotcha, today a motor rebuild/engine specialist shop looked it over and got it started with similar misfiring codes, but ruled out timing/chain issues in their opinion. Since rebuild is out of my time frame and budget, they pushed to order a 6mo warranty used engine with under 80k miles to swap in, I was happy they found an engine so quickly but left my car there realizing I still don't have a definitive answer on if the engine is toast or not, just because its misfiring and rough idle...

Would the compression test and leak down tests tell me a definitive answer to go forward with the engine swap? The shop is suspiciously not wanting to those/is confident that the internals are toast due to me telling them about the leak situation, I'm going to go back and put a stop on the engine swap until they run those two tests, the fact they want to skip and rush past them and just teardown the engine to show me the internals and order a new engine already is giving me red flags.

And to reiterate, I knew of the cooler issue for years, I check the service history for my vin when I got the car it specifically states the nationwide oil cooler recall was done it, it is so misleading given there are two exploding catastrophic oil cooler lines, had they not called the vvti line the "cooler" line I would've had this replaced earlier. Granted now I made sure to check my vvti line and even though its supposed to be the upgraded rubber line with yellow line, there's no yellow on it or it rubbed off. So I already have the full metal vvti line ordered

Right now it has the same misfiring codes, check engine vsc lights but now the check engine is no longer blinking. Idle is rough for sure, but to clarify on stuttering I don't think its really stuttering, I mean the idle is not purring evenly and rpms are a bit jumpy, so don't think its skipping teeth

 

Again you are "jumping the shark", putting out solutions without knowing the problem, that will assuridly cost you a LOT of excessive money and time but have at it and post up. You're seeking the wrong answers from wrong sources. You need a trustworthy, qualified mechanic - what result did you expect from a shop that specializes in engine rebuilds or swaps? Find the problem THEN assess solutions you're going about problem solving exactly how you shouldn't.... OR just throw a LOT of money at it hoping the solution fixes something that is always an option one that dealerships thrive on.