There is a black release handle on the very bottom of the door handle on all four doors of our 2026 Lexus NX 350h. And only on the driver's door there is also the small pop-off cover and a mechanical key slot beneath it... I understand how that driver's door works and have actually tested opening that driver's door with the mechanical key (first) turned clockwise twice, followed by pulling that hard to get hold of black release handle I'm speaking of above... I've opened the driver's door using that mechanical method...

But that same black mechanical release also exists on the other three "passenger" doors but I can't figure out it's purpose on those doors... Thought I had the answer after Google AI told me it's NOT for a power loss operation but is instead useful when power is still applied but say maybe the electronic door handle has say failed... But no, I've tried that mechanical handle with the car unlocked and fully powered... It does nothing useful...

So does anyone know the purpose and how to test (utilize) the three external, mechanical door release handles that are on the bottom and toward the front of the NON-driver's door, meaning the other three passenger doors??? Would love to hear how they work... Can't be there for no reason... Anyone??? thanks...

 

If a Lexus equipped with the e-Latch system is in an accident and the 12V battery loses connection, the doors do not automatically unlock, but they are designed to be manually opened from both the inside and outside.

Here is how the e-Latch system handles a loss of power:
Interior Manual Emergency Exit: If the 12V system fails, the interior electronic button will not work. Occupants can exit by pulling the door handle mechanism toward them twice in a row. This acts as a manual mechanical release.
Exterior Manual Access: If the battery is dead, exterior handles will not present themselves. A physical key (found inside the key fob) must be used. A small panel on the door handle can be removed to access a keyhole to unlock the door.
Collision Protocol: If the vehicle senses a collision, it is designed to enable manual access for all doors from the outside

 

Same way with mine. I think the other 3 are for severe collision opening purposes only.

 

Thanks for the responses... I did some more digging and yes, I now agree with what you folks say above... My test of going out to see if the mechanical release handles can be used to open the passenger doors while the car is both unlocked and still powered... Answer is NO and the reason appears to be because of the "it's still powered"... While powered, the electronic system with its door motors is still holding the door and preventing the mechanical release from being able to pull the manual handle with its internal cable. At least that's what a deeper search suggested... If power was really lost but with the doors having been previously unlocked, then yes, I would have likely found that the manual releases would have worked... The primary method to enter the car is through the driver's door and one can then open the other doors by pulling the inside handle twice (mechanically). The external mechanical releases will only work in rather extreme circumstances such as a major accident where all power is lost... I was just trying to understand why those handles were there at all and now I think I understand... thanks again...

 

I commend you Diitto! An owner of any vehicle should always take the time to become intimately familiar to how things work on their car, especially when an emergency arises such as a collision or breakdown. This is what saves lives!

These new door systems are intertwined with computerization and manual overrides and are a complete disaster in my opinion towards the safeguarding and simplification of emergency occupant exiting procedure. I mean we are literally at the point here of having a prerecorded message played to occupants as they enter the car on 'How to exit the cabin in an emergency!' It's that serious. Automakers and the agencies responsible for design safety need to step up!

 

Just a retired engineer (EE) and technically curious... Been following battery issues and charging since we bought our 2026 NX 350h three months ago... Still learning... And my wife liikes the NX so much we are close to buying one for her as well... (Mine is white, her's will be copper as we just convinced our local dealer to order one)... So I better understand how this puppy works... Still have not activated the dash cam as I've been too busy learning about 12 car battery charging and how to get in and out of the car... The three mechanical releases were just a mystery as, for a while, I could not see any reason for them... I get it now, sort of...

I'm claustrophobic... Also own a Corvette (had a 2012 new back then and now have a 2025 Eray (hybrid corvette, first ever), talk about technically challenging!!!!).... Anyway, being claustrophobic and knowing Corvettes are 100% electric (doors, convertible top, everything), first thing I asked when I first looked at the 2012 was for the salesperson to show me the mechanical release the corvette has on the floor by both doors... yep, it works... Otherwise I would have never bought either one... Did get stuck in the car once when the battery failed... Got right out with the mechanical release... Similar thing with the Lexus... I've tried and used the "pull it twice" mechanical release on the inside and that works!!!! And I did the "get in the driver's side" more than once as it's not trivial but not too hard either... But those other three (passenger doors) had me scratching my head... But I get it now, at least sort of... Appreciate all the help here... thanks...

 

I think this is a good watch to learn how these crazy electronic doors can be scary

 

Had our NX350h for 3 months, still trying to get use to the e door handles. Sometime safety features can be hazardous. China has banned these e door systems in their new cars. Drivers are getting burned alive in Tesla accidents because the interior mechanical override door latch is hard to find. I agree with previous posts that one should always try to know where the emergency door releases are but the manufacturer also should bear some responsibility in poor design of these e door systems.

 

Semi retired engineer myself. Spent the better part of 6 months understanding all the safety features and settings on the car so I was comfortable with it and became second nature / muscle memory. I would try out one at a time, lane keep assist, cruise control both auto and manual, park assist etc. 12 volt battery bit me twice, died less than a week from taking ownership, had it jumped with Lexus care warranty, wouldn't hold a charge after that. Had it replaced less than 2 months old. On second now using a monitor and plug in a trickle charger religiously after every use. That one's the biggest letdown for me.

 

So, are you saying, TheCDN, that you've had two previous 12 volt batteries fail and you're now on your third??? If so, how long did each of the batteries last... On my 2012 Corvette, I was eating batteries about one every 3 years... Chevy dealer told me to buy an Optima Charger that offers both voltage and current readings as it charges... I was sulfating batteries but not driving far enough on each start to bring the battery up to a high enough charge. I bought a newer version of that same Optima charger and am now trying to find the right place to land regarding how often to charge the 12 v system on the Lexus... Your thoughts on that???

 

Sorry I made a mistake, I'm only on my second battery, on my third wireless charger (stops charging after a few minutes) and on my third fuel door assembly (poor alignment). Once I had my battery replaced I installed a Noco 2 amp intelligent trickle charger https://no.co/genius2 . Soon after I installed a monitor too. Trickle charger connected directly to battery posts in rear and I just fed wiring up out through floor cover and tucked in left side cubby. I pop the hatch and plug it in and carefully lower hatch on the thin power cord, doesn't pose any closing or wire damage issues for me. I garage the car so the charger is not exposed to elements.

 

Sounds like the early NX had lots of issues. Supposedly, the 2026 has a modified charging scheme which improves the NXh’s low temp charging duration. I try to coast my NXh more just to charge the battery.

 

Here's how I fed the wiring out of rear hatch. You can buy additional eyelet connector leads to use directly on your posts.

 

My 2026 NX 350h also has its battery in the rear deck... But I charge from under the hood at the points called out in the manual. With the ground connection a full 40 inches away from where they tell you to attach the positive lead... Had to buy a longer cable for the ground connection as no chargers come with long enough cables to make that reach... But it works... And I use this charger (picture), an Optima D400+. It's both a charger and a maintainer (but not a trickle charger)... It also has a "conditioning" cycle... I like it because it displays both the Voltage and the Current being applied at the time...

 

My colleague's '23 NX350h continues to do very poorly in that dept, eats 12V batteries like I eat fries at McDonald's. Just this week he wandered back into the office after he'd left for the day, nope, car was dead (again, for an umpteenth time). He made the mistake of opening the rear hatch twice before trying to start the car, the reserve capacity of his current battery is exactly 1 rear hatch opening. So I went out and gave him a boost and told him about the trick of removing the voltage sensor connector that some people have had good luck with. But I think he's too nervous to try that.