Stratertele

Hello Newbee here,

Question for this forum. I have a well maintained 2000 Lexus LS400 Platinum Edition with 136,000 miles. Second owner and oil changes have been consistent with synthetic every 5,000 miles since birth. The paint is ruined by So California sun, not garaged. I'm considering making it like new. Factory quality paint, more modern Lexus wheels and in the longer term reupholstery (leather is still good today). My questions: 1) Other than the ultimate need for a power steering pump and present smell of exhaust (likely an exhaust manifold failure), what common repairs should I have in mind and budget for if I plan on keeping it for good? 2) What parts should I buy now and place in storage? 3) Any other comments are appreciated?

Thank you!

400fanboy

Oil changes don't really tell us anything about whether a car is "well maintained" or not. There probably is a lot of other neglected stuff that's at the end of its life and needs to be addressed.

The Unoffical LS400 Buyer's Guide

Stratertele

Motor mounts done, alternator, starter, o2 sensor....looking for normal issues to budget for?

Stratertele

Thanks for the link!!

400fanboy

Lower ball joints and strut bars are assumed to be needed on all LS400's. They wear out fast, but thankfully are extremely easy and fast to replace and the parts aren't outrageous. Shocks on the list too if they are tried, make sure to do the mounts\insulators\bump stops too. These parts are a bit more outrageously priced.

Wheel bearings usually don't go for a while. Starter motors can and will go - and good news, it's buried in the v of the engine so it's hours and hours of labor just to get to it.

There may be more or less, depends on the specific car and your standards for what is "broken" or acceptable.

TominPT

I think there is a lot of variation among individual cars as to what it needs now and might need in the future. Its really hard to predict the future for your 2000, but an inspection by a good independent mechanic could tell you what it needs now, such as valve cover gaskets. Suggestion - stay with OEM parts even though they cost a lot more than aftermarket. My '98 has needed few repairs over the years and needs nothing now at 153,000 miles other than a tiny light bulb behind the dash and a fix to the broken cassette tape player - which I can live without. Original starter, alternator, actuators for windows and doors, most of the suspension is still original and in good order.

CLLEXUSS

Typically the engine and transmission are the most costly things to repair. Luckily these engines are great. I would look at servicing your transmission, I'm not suggesting a flush, but certainly dump and fills, and replacing your transmission filter also. It's highly recommended you use the factory spec dealership transmission fluid for these cars. Is there any history on the transmission? I am not as concerned about the engine, but I would hope the timing belt has been done at least once since new. I imagine it has because the water pump I am not sure would last 24 years, but maybe? It is possible though.

400fanboy

I might be mistaken, but isn't the only way to change the transmission filter is to drop the transmission pan? Now you're messing with the fill tube and the Toyota FIPG that seals it. Also - the filter is just a metal strainer, it's a "while you're in there" but never the main mission.

Stratertele

Other than a couple oil change receipts missing, this is the history and I forgot I did the steering pumpealer 15,000 mile service

Dealer 20,000 mile service

Dealer 25,000 mile service

Dealer 30,000 mile service

Mile 32,254 front strut assembly and bushings, oil change

Dealer 35,000 mile service

Dealer 40,000 mile service

Mile 42,678 oil change, rear brakes, many inspections

2/16/11 new battery

Dealer 50,000 mile service

Mile 49,348, Dealer 55,000 mile service

Dealer 60,000 mile service

Mile 64,454 oxygen sensor

Mile 74,231 oil change

Mile 79,522 Dealer replaced starter

Mile 83,753 oil change

9/26/18 replace battery

Mile 102,728 power steering pump, brakes

Dealer 117,696 oil change, now windshield and moldings

Mile 120,830 speed sensor

Mile 130,865 oil change

Mile 131,118 spark plugs

2/17/22 replace battery
Timing belt was done, can't find receipt?

as99east

The first thing I did when I got my 1995 was have the ECU capacitors preventatively replaced. It’s less of an issue in the later years I think but I’ve heard from credible sources it’s a good idea even to get LS430 ECU’s re-capped. And once they leak the job becomes so much more difficult to repair the ECU.

Losiracer2

while you're doing the filter, you can also change the 3 position line pressure switch to the most aggressive (for 98-00 models only) to give better shifts instead of lazier ones. Mine was in the middle on my 99' when I resealed the pan with Toyota FIPG.

400fanboy

I actually prefer the lazy shift, I prefer the smoothness. It's never gonna be a fast shift anyway, so in my mind, why bother.

I just wish the car wouldn't downshift into first at 3mph. It makes it hard to manage California rolls, it doesn't actually need the power anyway. I wish it waited until a dead stop to shift into first.

CLLEXUSS

Kind of surprised to see the starter go out at 79K miles. These fairly durable starters that normally last a lot longer than that. With transmissions in some cases an oem or equivalent transmission "filter" can last reasonably up to 100K miles basically outlasting the fluid. Not saying that's a general rule or anything of course but really just by simply draining the pan periodically and rejuvenating the fluid makes a difference. Best case scenario you change the filter frequently, but if not, try to keep the fluid reasonably good condition. It's easy to drain and fill just measure what you took out and put the same amount back in after the drain.

CLLEXUSS

When a transmission starts getting into generally a little bit higher miles maybe practice caution if considering a flush, (while some think its a good thing, and it might be in their situation) there are risks involved with flushing out a transmission that has accrued some miles. I am a proponent of simply dumping the pan regularly, it's a much safer process imo. So, if you didn't know that is a thing, now you know.

Losiracer2

longer lazy shifts use more clutch material, so its better for it to be quicker. Plus even with full throttle shifts and my new mounts, I don't even feel it. Your air mix paths above the throttle body might need cleaning. It shouldn't be jerky at all when driving.