Jimmy, the XXR 531 I got from you barely cleared those calipers. The wheel balancing weights will have to be placed on the inside edge of the wheel.

 

You can also use the Stop Tech mono pads instead of the six pad lets.

 

That's good to know. I remember I had the same issue when I tried using the oem 16" SC wheels + 15mm spacer over LS400 brakes. The wheel weights would hit the caliper.

If you guys don't mind, could one of you take a measurement from the center of the hub to the outside edge of the caliper the next time your wheels are off, so I can figure out how much clearance I would need? My wheels are 18" step, so it has a 17" face which makes the drop center smaller.

 

they fit!

 

Time for a side profile shot to compare the new fronts to your supra tt rears.

 

Looking great Jimmy!

 

i would... but I'm currently installing 4 piston brembos on the rear. It's gonna be pretty nice 😉

 

Those calipers look great on the SC! And they're easy to service, too?

Jim, your car has been so thoroughly gone through now it is begging for a GTE engine

 

craig, thank you. Yes, it's been a meticulous journey taking a car that was ready for the junkyard and transforming it into a show worthy contender. It hasn't been easy and there has been several setbacks along the way but I am almost content with where the car is at. I just need to stop looking at the internet for new ideas! Once the brakes are done, I'll be looking for an LSD diff and then start weighing out the options of the NA-T vs 2JZGTE vs 1JZGTE and then further breaking down vvti vs non-vvti and automatic vs manual. Because I want to do it right and do it once. So there is a lot to weigh out. I also have to remember that I spent nearly $2k on maintenance for the current engine in the car. If I swap, all of that was for nothing basically. So leaning towards a manual trans, na-t, and stand alone. Decisions, decisions.

 

I need to do this too. I started shopping for Srt-8 brake calipers after looking at this thread. Seeing your 18" works clear the corvette brakes gave me hope that I won't have to replace my wheels.

Regarding your future engine mods, How much power do you want to make? I've put a lot of time into researching the same topic for my 98 too.

The best argument for going na-t is this thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ire-build.html

Then I found gerrb posted this and the idea of a shiftable automatic aristo swap became a viable option: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post9770422

 

see that's the problem... how much power?? Cause I could say 450hp and once I have it, it'll need to be 600hp, and then going any higher makes it more nervous than fun because it isn't a matter of IF something will break, but when. So, I'll say I'd be happy with a 450rwhp manual or a 400rwhp auto.

 

^^ Up to 450whp should still keep you within factory reliability if done right, so I understand. It's when you push beyond 500whp with these engines that more parts need to be upgraded to handle the desired power level. It just has to be done right.

Another consideration is how you will intend to use the car. Personally even though my build has been under a specific restriction for smog which limits my power output to around 350whp or so (STU hybrid turbos change this average number under the same restrictions) that power and torque increase is probably plenty of a jump from 180whp for the roads I frequently drive on be they in the city or in the mountains. I do feel that a manual transmission and LSD make a difference in an SC300/400 even with no forced induction. That mild level of power won't go head to head with heavily built 2JZ cars or Corvettes, etc. but it's a night and day experience compared to NA.

Jim, I think it comes down to what kind of driving experience you like most: manual or automatic transmission, harder or softer suspension, mostly linear boost from 1800rpm from 2JZGTE sequential twin turbos or a the feel of a single turbo... or the peakiness and high revving nature of a 1JZGTE. The 1JZGTE VVT-i engine with an upgraded factory CT15B turbo or a Tomei Arms turbo kit will do 450whp with ease btw. And their torque begins at 2400rpm, only bested by the initial torque of 2JZGTE stock sequential turbos.

 

All I got from reading this was that your target number is 600whp, so I would plan to eventually hit that number.

400-450whp is where I would start getting scared of the vvt-i rods. 93twintrbo said the limit is around 480-500 wtq before he blew a window out of the block. If that were to happen, then your options would be to swap in a good condition ge non-vvti short block, build the block with new pistons and rods, or buy a brand new gte short block (11400-49088).

The easiest solution for your power goals might be the aristo swap. If you really think you'd be content with 400, then the aristo swap with standalone, fmic, exhaust, and a good tune will get you to about 380whp at 15psi. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...n-numbers.html

A good condition gte block should be able to take 600whp. The supporting mods (fmic, exhaust, and standalone), if sized properly, will all still be usable with a single turbo conversion.

 

Photoshoot soon? Will be putting the car away for storage in a little bit as it gets cooler here.

 

it can be a 180rwhp car and will still break quick . It is not a question of how much power . I have seen quite a number of +1000rwhp cars and are very reliable

^^^^ These !!!!

* Sticking with intended use of the car and built accordingly with all the right parts and by the right people , no reason why it won't be reliable.

Better move and enjoy that car more .